Brand?
Muzzlebrake?

No need for a muzzle brake.

A custom .375H&H build? A Mauser 98 action would be nice.

Do you want a "beater" or more of a wood stock custom?
I have both and both are custom. Both shoot great. Everyone likes to look and handle the wood stock custom. I hunt with the "beater" 80% of the time. Neither has a muzzle break.
Both are worked over Mod 70's. One blued steel and one stainless. Custom wood / fiberglass, bedding and hardware.

EZ

Start with a model 70 controlled feed.

Along with the controlled feed, the push-feed New Haven Winchester Model 70’s should be considered. All have the great 3 position safeties, one of the best factory triggers available, good solid accurate rifles. The only negative would be, with the heavy barrel contour...they are heavy. I love my old ( early’80’s vintage), but for a serious hiking,hunt’n, climbing rifle...it was too heavy.

So...I got a New Haven, push feed...put a light contour Douglas Match Grade SS barrel on, in a McMillan stock, Express Sights, Leupold QD Base/Rings, 2.5-8 Leupold (since changed to 3.5-10), Pachmyar Decellerator Pad, chambered in .375 AI. Scoped, loaded, and slung...9 lbs. 5 oz. (wish it was just a “tad” lighter)! It has been my “only” hunting rifle since spring of 1990.

Absolutely “NO” muzzle brake!!!! memtb

Come to DSC and get one planned

Definately getting a muzzlebrake. Read too much Jack OConner.

CZ550 or probably Sako

Sako's have quick lock time.

My first rifle was a 270 Winchester and at twelve years of age, it kicked enough. After shooting the 375 H&H OConner chose the Winchester. Probably because he could shoot the 270 most accurately. Personally, I can shoot the 7mm Remington Magnum more accurately than the 270 Winchester. 130 grain bullet at 3100 fps out of a 22" barrel was nasty. 24" almost required.

if you are going to buy one, today, a new model 70 -
http://www.winchesterguns.com/...-safari-express.html

select 375

for less than $1600 --

get a brand new one, don't bother with someone else's problem child

may consider a CZ 550 --

no brake needed

Can you change the model 70 trigger?

Stock fit has everything to do with perceived recoil. I repeat, Stock fit has everything to do with perceived recoil.
If you need a muzzle break on a 375H&H you have no business shooting one. PERIOD.
The pushfeed deal is overblown but CRF is preferred. I favor Winchesters but something else that was breathed on would work. Start with an action you like and have a stock fit to you.

quote:

Originally posted by ar corey:
Can you change the model 70 trigger?

I would assume you are talking about the new MOA trigger. If you get a set of springs from Ernie the Gunsith, you can get whatever trigger pull you want and should have no complaints.

quote:

Originally posted by ar corey:
Brand?
Muzzlebrake?

M-70..... and muzzle brake is not needed.....

quote:

Originally posted by ar corey:
Can you change the model 70 trigger?

i would expect, if there's a market, there's a model --

No one would ever need to change a pre-new Model 70 trigger; they are perfection.
Yes, any Model 70 will make a great 375; post 64s are made for them. . CRF is only needed for those unaccustomed to correctly operating bolt actions.

I like the Model 70 with the factory barrel. Because it's slightly muzzle heavy I don't get as much muzzle rise and recoil feels much softer. I'd rather shoot my 375 H&H in my Model 70 than my Savage Model 11 in 300 Mag.

quote:

Originally posted by ar corey:
Definately getting a muzzlebrake. Read too much Jack OConner.

I just finished a season with mine. What with zeroing, confirming CBS a couple of times and just getting to know it I went through 17 rounds. Only took one for the kill but at no time did I feel the need for a muzzle brake.

Of course everyone is different. I am shooting a Whitworth Safari Mauser.

True, 375 Win factory jobs are nice and I do like the barrel weight. No brake needed; as dr said, you won't notice it.
To me, 300 mags and 338s, kick more; due to recoil velocity.

Give Wayne at AHR a call about either modifying a CZ550 or building up one of his rifles from scratch on a CZ action.

Get a brake if you want one.

Don't let anyone tell you that it's not needed to prevent you getting one.

It may not be needed to some but if you want one....get one

Heck..... I'm running a brake on a 6.5 CM and am loving it

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
No one would ever need to change a pre-new Model 70 trigger; they are perfection.
Yes, any Model 70 will make a great 375; post 64s are made for them. . CRF is only needed for those unaccustomed to correctly operating bolt actions.

Exactly....

Why change one of the best triggers out there, old or new.

If you like the model 70 then take a look at the new Akaskan in .375 H&H. It's a couple pounds less than the Safari Express.

Saying that I like my BACO Safari Express very much. From the beginning its been one of the smoothest and most accurate rifles I've owned and wouldn't change a thing.

Brakes? I agree with others it's not really needed on a .375 H&H. The recoil is more of a shove than a sharp slap of some higher pressure rounds. But if you feel you must have a brake (and wear hearing protection whenever you shoot it including hunting)I would shoot it a lot before deciding though. Too many people assume it's going to hurt either before they ever shot it or after a couple rounds. Most find out a .375 isn't really that big of a deal after using it for some time.

Based on my rifle I'd suggest looking at CZ 550. First class workmanship, controlled feed, accurate.

I have custom CZ 550 Magnum in .375. It has factory barrel, but everything is hand polished, smoothed and fitted. Custom made stock plus some engravings. Super accurate and really no need for muzzle brake. You can shoot it all day, there are 30-06 out there kicking much more.

Factory CZ can be a little bit rough out of the box, so I recommend to choose smoothest one and maybe let some gunsmith just polish some parts.

That is my CZ. Accurate, nice and reliable.

24 or 26?

quote:

Originally posted by ar corey:
24 or 26?

In a H&H, the barrel can be shortened to 20-21” without serious drop-off in velocity. I’m running a 24” barrel on my AI, and can easily attain 3100+ fps with 250’s. 24” is plenty adequate and more “nimble”! memtb

Buy the cheapest Win 70 Classic (if CRF is a must have) in any magnum chambering, and have a new barrel screwed on. You'll need a couple parts, but all in all it'll probably run less than trying to find a new one or even used, the prices are often ludicrous for 375's. If CRF isn't totally necessary, same scenario but it'll be even cheaper.

Or, search for a Zastava made 375 mauser. Zastava/Whitworth/BRNO/JC Higgins/Rem 798/ect...with enough looking you can find one. Saw one recently for around 800.

To brake or not to brake, your choice. I have a 375 coming to me that already has a brake on it, I'll try it out that way before having it cut off, mostly because I want a shorter barrel, but if it had already been cut down with the brake on it, I'd probably just leave it alone.

quote:

Originally posted by ar corey:
24 or 26?

Mine is 25", but could be shorter.

KIMBER

I believe the new 250 375 TTSX will really attract hunters for non-cape buffalo like elk or moose.

Has a BC of. 434 I believe That's enough for a 400 yard shot.

I have .375s on the CZ, Model 70, and Mark X action.

The nicest is probably the Mark X but it has been extensively reworked by Wayne at AHR and other than the barreled action not much remains of the original. The CZ is an AHR uograde and is very nice but heavier than I prefer in a .375. The Model 70 is the newest and an all-weather version -- not pretty but practical. Still a bit heavier than my ideal.

Best bet is to handle some and see what you like. If you are building from scratch, talk to some gunsmiths and see what you need to start with to finish with the weight and style you want.

Not a bad choice. Especially the older Oregon model 89's.

quote:

Originally posted by lindy2:
KIMBER

375 Ruger would be a great choice also, especially if you reload. They are starting to get popular, especially in Alaska.

Yeah, 375 Ruger has the best case to reload

H&H case shoulder is very inferior. I have no romantic qualms over the H&H lore.

Plus the Barnes data for the H&H concerning the 250 TTSX is a compressed load of Varget. Ruger would require no compressed loads. I don't favour compressed loads.

I have three 375's
A Winchester Stainless Classic, Winchester push feed (375 Weatherby) and a Whitworth.
The Whitworth has a muzzle brake and Mercury recoil reducer, I built it for the Safari Rifle shoots. Recoil is nil, can be fired all day. But it is noisy and heavy- 11 lbs. For range and casual shooting it is great.

For a hunting rifle I would recommend a Winchester for the safety and trigger, if not going to hunt dangerous game the push feed is fine. A 22-24" barrel just because it looks good. For a hunting rifle no brake.
For economics just buy a factory Winchester, spend the money saved over a custom on a upgrade to scope.

M

Going 375 Ruger