Which years were the best pre-64 Model 70's produced; OR, are all the original pre-64 actions as good as any year ? Thanks for your responses.

Dunno about this--and I'll explain. Supposedly, the pre-war and post-war through about 1952-53 are the most desireable. I've heard other stories on this concept, and I'm not a big collector--so someone of that description might have better info.

I have a M-70 x 30-06 made in 1948. It is a piece of artwork when compared with the CNC-produced stuff around today. However, its throat is .311" and bore/groove is .300"/.308"--a situation that complicates the accuracy equation with considerable success. I call the rifle my "Cotillion Debutante", due to its VERY fussy tastes about bullets--a definite steak and lobster date, for sure. This is highly unusual in the 30-06......the caliber is noted for its fine accuracy with a wide range of bullet weights, and several other rifles in this caliber that I've played with have borne that out.

I am reluctant to seat jacketed bullets up against the rifling origin, and one of the few jacketed bullets that shoots well when seated .025" back from the rifling is the Nosler Ballistic Tip/165 grain. It's a pretty consistent 1-inch grouper/100 yards at 2800 FPS prompted by WW-760 or IMR-4350.

Cast bullets are a similar challenge--gotta run Lyman #311291 at .311", seated with drive bands into the rifling a bit. It will get to about 1.25", but more consistently 1.5".

It pains me to say this--but most of my more recently-made bolt rifles shoot better with more bullets than the M-70 does. I was lucky enough to find a "go-to" load using a good deer bullet in the rifle, but would like to see a Partition 180 do better than 2.5" at 100 yards before using it for elk. I'm sure something obscenely expensive like Swifts or RWS would work--knowing the rifle as I do.

Al: I'd have to agree with you; I have 10 pre-64 Model 70's, and really love them, but my newer Remington 700's and Ruger 77's win in the accuracy dept.

Gentlemen:
Not to disagree with you about the pre-64 accuracy problems.
But,

I have found accuracy problems are usually related to stock bedding in the M 70's. Discounting shot out or injured barrels. First thing I would look at would be the barrel crown. If that is ok the bet is the bedding, especially if you have the barrel tie down screw installed.

I own and have owned several pre-64's, but few with factory stocks. To the last one, they would all shoot 1 1/4" groups with just about everything I throw in them. Most will/would better an inch with a little effort in the reloading dept.

By the way, I am not suggesting that you should glass bed or alter your stock. If they are collector rifles that would not be good.

I own quite a few Pre-64 M70's and I have been able to get all of them to shoot hunting bullets at MOA or less. Now, I reload most of my ammo. However, I have a 30-06 and a 270 that will shoot a few different factory loads into less than an 1" at 100 yards and with handloads they are honest 1/2 MOA guns. For the 30-06, this includes 180 grain partitions, 150 grn partitions and 150 Hornady SST's. For the 270, my 1/2 MOA loads are with 130 grn Partitions and 130 grain SSTs. These loads are all at top velocities. I'm sure I could get a lot of other bullets to shoot just as well, but when I got these results with these hunting bullets, I saw no reason to try anything else.

I don't really shoot many of the other Pre-64 M70 that I have, but I have shot almost all of them (except the NIB 30-06 Fwt) and they all could get to 1 MOA by trying a few handloads.

Tim

Frank, looks like everyone here has given you excellent advice.

Pre 64's fall into two main categories as I see it; shooters, and pristine collectables. Breaking it down further gives: pre war, transitional, post war, pre 53, and post 53. I am sure there are many more categories, but this will work for rifles.

If your intention is to build a custom on a pre 64 action, any action would work great, however I think post war rifles are the best because they are already tapped for scopes, both front and rear. Your choices here are thus, do you want one with a hole in the bolt handle(post '53), or not(pre 53)?
To modify an earlier action requires making additional holes if you want a modern scope mount.

I've got two pre 64's right now, a 300 H&H and a standard '06, and both will shoot about anything you feed them to 1.5 MOA. With the right loads they shoot MOA, or better. I've found a .264 Westerner and the price is right, but it looks too good to be true as the bolt face is sill blued. Also, there is a suspicious ring on the bolt face where I suspect it has been machined, but yet can't find any milling marks. For $800 I think it's not a bad deal and would jump on it, but I've got some lingering doubts.

Best of luck with any project.

I can make just about any pre 64 mod. 70 shoot...All mine have sure shot well....

The best year for workmanship was 53..and both sides of that are good....Also the pre war guns were nicely made but the safties are a problem and need to be changed out.

Wisner's used to sell the Tilden safety lever conversion for the pre-war rifles.

Frank,

The ones made in 1950 are the best!

Rifles chambered to .270 are particularly nice!

Couldn't resist...

Bob

I have a pre 64 in 270 that I bought from Ray Atkinson. It was made about 1960. It is not particularly pretty and doubt if it ever was, but it is a good hunting gun. When he sold it to me he said it shot 1/2" groups. Ray lied--It shoots slightly less.

By reputation this shouldn't be a great time period. This particular one is a very good gun.