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Hello. I have one of the pre-64's that my Dad gave me and it doesn't pass the Larry Potterfield test of being able to accept a dollar bill sliding between the barrel and the stock--in fact it doesn't even come close to getting in there. Assuming a clean barrel, proper OAL, etc., what amount of error do all of you feel this might impart at 100 yards? Thanks. Joe | ||
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One of Us |
Maybe nothing.....shoot it first to see what kind of groups you are getting. If you're happy with the groups then so be it.....if you're not then consider floating the barrel. /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill | |||
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One of Us |
The pre-64 has a barrel lug and a screw that tightens it to the stock. If you look at the bottom side of the stock, you'll see a screw about half way between the front action screw and the tip of stock. That's the screw for the action lug. Many pre 64s are very accurate with that screwed nice and snug. | |||
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Exactly. One of my fav rifles has pressure point on the fornt, shoots great. I tried it w/o & it shot worse. LIFE IS NOT A SPECTATOR'S SPORT! | |||
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I have a pre64 M70 custom in .338 Win Mag. Was done with a Krieger cut rifled barrel. Is fitted into a McMillan stock and has a pressure point in the from. Consistently shoots 2" or better at 300 yards. Works for me. Mike -------------- DRSS, Womper's Club, NRA Life Member/Charter Member NRA Golden Eagles ... Knifemaker, http://www.mstarling.com | |||
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My post 64 M70 in .300 Win has to have a pressure point near the tip to shoot well. Molon Labe New account for Jacobite | |||
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One of Us |
There is a lot of difference between a pressure point and a poorly inletted stock. If the stock is putting random pressure along the barrel, it's gonna shoot like a shotgun. And get worse as the barrel heats up. Aim for the exit hole | |||
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What hoghunting said. Try it 1st with no pressure from the screw under the barrel. Gradually, tighten it down and see if groups improve. I put an H-S Precision on my Pre-64, .270 Win. after the previous owners had bubba'd it up. H-S doesn't make one specifically for the Pre-64 but my smith was able to modify it. This stock doesn't have screw/pressure point but it shoots 1" or less with boring regularity. Make sure the stock isn't touching at any other location either. I'm willing to bet this puppy will shoot. Bear in Fairbanks Unless you're the lead dog, the scenery never changes. I never thought that I'd live to see a President worse than Jimmy Carter. Well, I have. Gun control means using two hands. | |||
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One of Us |
A long time ago (1965) my uncle had a pre-war Model 70 in 30-06. It had the standard stock and barrel with the barrel lug/screw. About the best it could do for a group was about 1 1/2 inches at 100 yards. That was after playing with the tension on the screw, pressure points, different loads etc. The next fall, he fell while hunting and the stock developed a crack right behind the tang. The next summer I bought a semi-inlet Fajen stock for him and restocked the rifle, but did not cut the space to add the screw for the barrel lug -- I just free floated the entire barrel and lug area. After that rifle was restocked, it became a tack driver consistently shooting 1/2 inch groups at 100 yards. Only pre-64 I own is a 270 Win made in 1949. It is original and I do not want or need to float the barrel. I keep the barrel lug screw tight and it keeps shooting into 1 1/4 inches and I am satisfied with that, because it is very typical for a pre-64 Model 70. Barstooler | |||
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Henry Cheatham used to say that barrels were free floated nowadays because gunmakers were not willing to put in the time to properly inlet the barrels. That being said I have found most older Remingtons shoot better with a pressure point. My BRNO has a barrel lug and it is a MOA shooter. My CZs are the same way. Anything Worth Doing Is Worth Overdoing. | |||
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