Got my .270 back after 4 months at pac Nor. It looks great. I have her all back together and she looks real nice.
I am gonna have to open the barrel channal just a little more to free float but that will only take about half an hour. This is what I have.
Pre 64 Model 70 Featherweight Action with a canjar trigger, trued by pac nor,And installed a 22 inch match grade cryoed chrome molly barrel coutoured to match the factory barrel. The hole ting is finished in matt blue, and It has a matt Leupold VX3 2.5X8 with boone a crocket reticle. In Leopold matt bases and low rings.
Gonna load up some 130 grain Hornady flat bases fo break in With H-4831 sc...tj3006

Well, if it doesn't shoot well, it probably isn't the barrel. I've had, and have, quite a number of pac-nor barrels and that are all freakishly accurate, even the thin little whippy ones. Good luck, I bet you've got a real winner on your hands.

tj3006,

I never free floated a Featherweight barrel so I am interested in how yours turns out. I would shoot it in the stock as is before the material is removed.

Now, take this with salt as I read it yesterday and don't know from experience as haven't bedded a rifle yet. I read that light barrels don't shoot well sometimes when free floated and it is a good idea, if not shooting well, to put a bit of bedding at the front of the barrel channel to put a little pressure upwards against the tube. just what I read.

Red

I would try the rifle with a pressure point also but I have had a couple featherweights (still have one in 22-250)that would shoot better after being floated.

I have found that MOST skinny barrels do better with a pressure point, but not all. Then again I think maybe some pressure points allow the barrel to "settle" in a slightly different spot after each shot throwing the harmonics off. That's just a theory I developed after sanding a few off only to build them back up again with different resultes.

I'd be interested, as a potential customer, as to what work was done in regards to truing up the action. There isn't much info on their site in this regard.

Coot

You guys have a good point on shooting it as is before free floating it. I can allways float it at the range if it does not shoot well enough. Cooter, just call the number on the web site, they are easy folks to work with.
I will probably order a rimrock stock in a few weeks. They say there should need very little fitting if any.
McMillan does not do a drop in style for the pre 64 feather weight, they could build me one but I would have to send them the rifle and that would be expensive. I figure if the rimrock needs any fitting I can have it done here ...tj3006

I agree also with floating the barrel. I have a #1 countour Hart barrel 25.5" long on a Ruger .270 and it is free floating and I wouldn't have it any other way.

If you take a look at some Factory Rugers as well as other brands, like the Ruger stainless/black MKII M77, you may notice that the factory stock does press against the barrel in most If not all. THIS IS PLAN B! Plan A is to always float the barrel. And that is straight from the horses mouth at Ruger and Remington.

Between my brother and I, we've owned several featherwt. custom barrels, all freed.

WE also have several Pac-Nor barreled rifles.

Free float/free float/...say it with me...FREE FLOAT!

To clarify my point on the bedding of Featherweight barrels. When one gets such a combo together be it a factory stock or a new one with the barrel channel just a groove at that point it's easier to try it full bedded when the stock is either orginal or needs to be cut out.

Nothing is all that easy but a free floated barrel needs to have sufficiant clearance and it's not all plus plus what with the gap and stuff getting in there.

Then there is the fact that some barrels just don't shoot using plan "A"!