How do you guys like these rifles? My rifles are Winchesters, Remington and CZs, mainly. I've read that the MKII action sometimes won't actually control the round as it is loaded, but rather push-feeds it. Is this true? I'm kinda thinking about getting one of those "International" versions, with the full stock in .308.

(I'm referring to the non-RSM models.)

Thanks for any help,
Dave

[ 12-07-2003, 08:05: Message edited by: Dave_T ]

I have a ruger in 270. Mine works great just like my mausers and winchesters. After relieving the bind with the action/stock it shoots 3/4 1/2 groups at 100 yards. I fixed the trigger too.Id buy another I might get another ruger in 338 or a CZ 9.3x62. I like the way the stock/grip fits and feels

[ 12-07-2003, 08:25: Message edited by: GSP7 ]

GSP,

What do you mean the "bind" in the stock?

Dave

I have several MKIIs they are good very strong rifles. Like most factory rifles they need a little work I glass bed most of them put new triggers on them. But you well be hard press to find a rifle for the price that you do not have to work on a bit. My lastest is going to be a 338wm stainless made into a 416 taylor. I looked at all the options out there for the price and the little bit of work to get it up and running it is hard to beat. By the time I buy the rifle have a new barrel srewed on new trigger do the stock work myself buy a good scope I well have a very strong all weather large caliber rifle for around 1000 to 1200. I could buy a old 98 action have all the work done to it spend lots more money and not end up with a rifle that well take the abuse that a syt stock stainless steel one well.

All I can say is, if you own a Ruger 77 Mark II that is a shooter, you have yourself a good a reliable rifle that is worth owning.

AD

Dave T ,,, On my ruger mII The stock was hitting somewhere in the middle of the action or just getting bent when the action screws were tigtened. The bedding was tweekin it somewhere.

I've had a M77 MkII International in .308 for several years. From the bench it's only a 2" gun at 100yds but for some reason I hit 3-D (plinkin') targets and game much better with it than with any other rifle. Must have something to do with it's balance and ergomomics.

Never had a function problem with it and it has been shot alot. It's a controlled feed and will feed upside down, sideways, etc.

Mine wears a Leupold 1-4X scope that looks just right on the little gun. Shoots well, reliable, light and fun to carry sums up my opinion.

hth

Rick

In 1994 or so I bought a Ruger M-77 MK-II that was a semi CRF. This rifle had the claw extractor just like the ones used with CRF bolts, but the bolt was of the "push-feed" type. One can easily tell the difference between a push-feed and a CRF bolt by looking at the bolt's face. When you place the two bolts next to each other and look at their faces, you will notice that push-feed one has a little rim (or ring) all the way around the edge of the bolt's face. This "ring" surrounds the rim of the case as it is pushed into the chamber. Later I sent the rifle to Ruger, and they did some work on the rails, built a CRF bolt for it, and finally, mailed the rifle to me with two bolts (the original push-feed, and the new CRF one).

The CRF bolt does not have a protruding ring around the bolt's face like the a push-feed bolt has. Look at a Remington bolt (push-feed), and you will notice the ring I am talking about.

The Ruger CRF bolt's extractor (claw) has been modified at the factory so it will push feed a round into the chamber, or to pop a round out of the magazine and "control-feed" it into the chamber. However, at least with my rifle, push feeding a round into the chamber requires a little more force than control-feeding the round into the chamber, so I prefer to allow the bolt to work in its CRF mode instead of placing a round in front of the bolt to push it into the chamber.

Now, the reason why it requires more force to "push-feed" is as follows:

1. When the bolt pops and grabs the case out of the magazine, the claw is already over the case's base, and right into the groove used for extracting the case from the chamber.

2. When I place a round in front of the bolt to push it into the chamber, the extractor or claw is touching the case's base, and it is not positioned right inside the extracting groove, since it has not snapped over the case's base. Once the case is securely in the chamber, the claw pops over the case's base or rim and slips into the extracting groove...but only when the bolt is being locked into position (as the bolt's handle is move down to the "lock" position).

That's all there is to it. Some rifles made by BSA and others are designed in the same fashion: To push feed a round into the chamber if you want, or to simply load the chamber directly from the magazine.

My tag says it all - mine is a 77MkII in 270win, stainless laminate, bedded the action, floated the barrel, installed Timney trigger myself (not rocket science, just take your time). Shoots 5 shot groups, all holes overlapping at 100yds, with 110g and 130 bullets (took some fiddling with handloads) but all loads are within .5g of max, don't have a chrony - don't care what the velocity is. For some reason, the point of impact is the same with both weights at 100 and 200 yds, about .25 difference at 300 - certainly not enough to worry about. Shoots the same whether the barrel is too hot to touch (as in pig killing) or cold. Have never felt the need to shoot upside down, nor sideways, but, whatever lights your candle!! For what it's worth, I have noticed that the CRF depends to some extent on how fast the bolt is cycled, do it slow when the cartridge is on the left side of the mag, and the extractor doesn't fully engage until the bolt is about three quarter closed. Do it fast, and it's engaged the moment the round leaves the mag? Has it ever been a problem? Nup! Great gun for the money, in fact I'm thinking of replacing my CZ 527 in 223 with another Ruger. Final note - when mine was new, it wouldn't shoot factory ammo for sh.t, and it's poosible that the accuracy I'm getting now is simply the barrel wearing in, haven't needed to use factory fodder for a while now, might try it - gives me an excuse to go play with it.

Fairly rugged and non temperamental generally. Usually not the most accurate factory rifles out of the box, but most are adequate for hunting. If it doesn't shoot well out of the box I would get rid of it. They generally don't lend themselves well to customization, IMHO.