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After cleaning all the factory gunk/oil, etc.. out of the action and bolt of a new M70 300 WSM I just picked up, I noticed that the safety was about impossible to operate, especially when attempting to move it from "Fire" to "Safe" with the action cocked. I know SOME lube is needed, but, unless the lube (I used Tri-Flow) is, literally, just about dripping out of there, you really have to work to move the safety. Of 4 M70's, two are smooth as silk, one takes noticeable effort, and then this one that requires Schwarzenegger fingers. Talked with another M70 owner who mentioned the same thing. Any thoughts/comments? TIA, R-WEST | ||
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Hi Savage 99. I was hoping there was an easier answer. I'm just getting ready to start load workups, and didn't really want to wait 2 months for the bolt to come back R-WEST [ 09-27-2003, 20:29: Message edited by: R-WEST ] | |||
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one of us |
R-West. Try this. Right before you put the safety on, raise the bolt handle slighly. Anout 1/8 to 1/4" should do it. Then apply the safety. Lower the bolt handle back down. I have four M70s and I have to do that with two of them. Insn't it strange, that with all the so-called accuracy with tight tolerences, they still can't make that safety work like it shoulf at leat out od 50 percent of the rifles? Paul B. | |||
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<Savage 99> |
If time is short call up Jim Wisner tommorrow. If he does not have a product or answer I would be surprised. To change the spring you have to have another spring. That's easy to type and sometimes not so easy to do. | ||
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I had a M70 yesterday, same problem, fixed it in about 5 minutes. This is a very common problem with the M70 Classics. Can you say: Improper final assembly at the factory???? Easy job IF one knows what is required and how to do it: The camming area on the cocking piece is not cut reward enough, needs some hand fitting. And some moly grease. I won't go into the details, as it is easy to get into trouble doing this. If you remove too much metal, the safety lever will not pull the cocking piece back far enough off the sear. Sometimes you can "crutch" your way through this by a good lube job. So, my recommendation is to find a local gunschimdten that knows how to do the fix. [ 09-28-2003, 00:06: Message edited by: John Ricks ] | |||
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Thanks, guys. I just don't understand how they let rifles out the door with such glaring deficiencies BTW - Started initial load workup with it yesterday, and it looks like a real winner. John, please check your e-mail. R-WEST | |||
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<Savage 99> |
The thing to do is to rush the bolt to John Ricks if he agrees to do it right away and ship it right back. If you send it today you might have it back Monday. | ||
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Hi Savage99 - I'm trying that approach, but, haven't heard from him. Uh-oh, now it's Tuesday. Hello, John. Are you there? R-WEST | |||
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Hey R-West, a quote I saw a while back, I don't know the origin, was about "peeling back the foreskin of ignorance and applying the wire brush of knowledge." | |||
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Okay, it sounds painful, but, if it makes the safety work better, it's worth a try, I guess. (edit) YEEEEOOOOOWWWWWW!!! R-WEST [ 10-02-2003, 04:24: Message edited by: R-WEST ] | |||
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I had an older Mod 70 featherweight with the exact same problem that I bought at a very good price several years back. The previous owner was happy to get $200. cash because the safety was so hard to work. I called my gunsmith about it and he said bring it on in and he would fix it while I waited. It took about 30 minutes and from then to the present the safety is smooth as silk. He only charged me 20 dollars and I have sent several new customers his way. Any competent smith should be able to fix this for you at a reasonable price. I wouldn't waste my time with Winchester factory and it sounds like you have a keeper as far as accuracy is concerned. BLR7 | |||
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Hi BLR7 - Thanks for the info. One of the local gunnies said he's seen/repaired the same thing a lot of times, and he's going to have a lookie. He said he's pretty happy with the major mfrs' lack of quality control the last few years R-WEST | |||
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