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I have the opportunity to obtain a Belgian Browning Safari bolt action rifle in 338 WM. Before sticking my neck out, I have two questions: Is the Belgian Browning Safari rifle afflicted with the same salt wood problems that the Browning Superposed shotgun was? If so, is there a way to determine if a particular Browning Safari rifle has a salt wood stock? | ||
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Yes the rifles were. There's a lot of discussion here at AR about it and you can do a search here. Or, there was more discussion at Gun Broker. Here's the link to that: GunBroker Saltwood Discussion There's also a site to track the serial number to see the date of manufacture of the Brownings: Browning Manufacture Date | |||
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Take a look at the metal under the wood, you will know if its salt wood right away. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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Thank you! That is EXACTLY the information I was looking for. | |||
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I think the salt wood was used 69-79-71. If your production is earlier you should have no worries. | |||
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Call Browning with the serial number! When catapults are outlawed, only outlaws will have catapults! | |||
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Also, look at the barreled action out of the stock. Some are worse than others, and the price is usually very "right" on them. It may be something you can live with as long as you can't see it. The (FN) Safari family are great rifles and I wouldn't rule one out just because it has (had) saltwood stock on it. "You can lead a horticulture, ... but you can't make 'er think" Florida Gardener | |||
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Been looking at a Safari in 30-06 at an out of state dealer and the price is right but the guy doesn't want to send me anymore pictures then one that he sent. I don't know whether that is a warning flag or not. | |||
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I would take it as such... | |||
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Salt wood will continue to eat on your metal and that ruins the sale value of a rifle. However I would think a full glass bed woudl cure the salt wood problem. Don't know why it wouldn't. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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Of course it's best to re-stock, but you're right, bedding will take care of the barreled action. It still eats up sling studs, screws etc. and it's hard to bed areas like the area under the bolt handle & through bolt holes. I did a superposed last year, because we couldn't find a stock for it. Just gouged out some clearance & epoxy coated all the inside areas. Coated the metal parts with rustguardit which is the best cortosion inhibitor I've found. I also told the owner to take it apart once a year & re-coat the metal. "You can lead a horticulture, ... but you can't make 'er think" Florida Gardener | |||
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Ray: welcome back! haven't seen one of your posts in a long time! | |||
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I have to go along with OLARMY,Ray. It's good to see your post again. Ray's right about the metal. The screws will probably be corroded in the wood. Anything Worth Doing Is Worth Overdoing. | |||
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Salt wood problems started after 1965. Look at the cross bolts. I would not hesitate to buy even with salt wood. | |||
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Agree with Atkinson...I recently bought a Belgian Browning "T-Bolt", the neat .22 Rimfire designed by Donalson of Colorado & made by Browning. It has a "salt wood stock", made in 1969...no rust anywhere as the owner just heavily varnished the inletting...glass bedding would even be better. So...1969-2007 salt wood stock & varnished innards took care of it all these years! Best Regards, Tom from Cody | |||
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In Florida any salt wood Browning will die! I have a Superposed and 2 T-Bolts with the problem. The humidity will get them unless they are in air conditioning all the time. It will take awhile but they will not survive in the southeast. I've tried most everything to stop it to very little avail. Anything Worth Doing Is Worth Overdoing. | |||
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