If I were to rebarrel my 300 win. What barrel? What contour? What twist? I would like to start using it to for targets to 1000. I will always use it to hunt mule deer and elk with. Do you pick a bullet like a 210 vld and build a barrel around it? Also I have RCBS dies should I get new dies if I am serious about shooting to 1000? Thanks

cut-rifled,#7 fluted,1-10 twist,you pick the bullet,get new dies ifin you want 2 speed the ging.regards

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Originally posted by chain:
If I were to rebarrel my 300 win. What barrel?

My opinion: stainless, from any of the following: Krieger (cut rifled), Lilja, Broughton, Hart, Kostyshyn, PacNor, Shilen, (all button rifled). I suppose if I had to pick JUST ONE to recommend, try the Krieger.

quote:

What contour?

I'd keep it close to factory since you still plan on hunting with it, which, to me, means you plan on hiking with it. Depending on make, go with either a #3 sporter magnum or #4....or get a #5 but flute it.

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What twist?

1-10"

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Do you pick a bullet like a 210 vld and build a barrel around it?

Not necessarily. What on earth would you do if that was the route you chose but the rifle didn't like that bullet? Build the rifle you want, THEN, pick from the bottomless pit of components. VLD bullets are great but you can certainly use hunting bullets for long range work. All of the following videos have long range kills where the rifle was a factory Weatherby Accumark 30-378 and the 180 Accubond:

1000 yard antelope

1115, 1016 yard antelope

830 elk

repeat posted videos, I know, but there it is.

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Also I have RCBS dies should I get new dies if I am serious about shooting to 1000? Thanks

I would. I prefer Redding. It's only money!

I see what you are saying about the bullets but the last re barrel I attempted the 'smith asked me what bullet I wanted to shoot so he could chamber it accordingly, he also wanted my dies and some bullets and brass. Thanks What ever bullet it likes I hope it is a long range elk killer.

Those are some awesome videos. I love accubonds, I got both my muleys this year with 180's behind 75.5 gr RL 22. Bang Flop

quote:

Originally posted by chain:
I see what you are saying about the bullets but the last re barrel I attempted the 'smith asked me what bullet I wanted to shoot so he could chamber it accordingly, he also wanted my dies and some bullets and brass.

Well, it appears that this gunsmith is trying to do the very best work he can if you have already chosen a bullet. He was probably looking at bullet seating depth, etc. for efficiency. I'm not a gunsmith but I know where he's coming from.

Please keep in mind that if you do choose a VLD, you will very likely have a single shot rifle, unless the smith is going to modify your magazine as well. The consensus is, the VLD does best when seated at the lands, with little to no "jump."

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Whatever bullet it likes I hope it is a long range elk killer.

Well, I was emailed a video a few years ago by one of my hunting friends. The video was someone he knew and in that video, the guy killed a small 6x6 elk at 780 yards. The rifle was a 300 RUM and the bullet was a 150 TSX. He squared the bullet in the high onside shoulder and dumped the elk in its tracks. You can see the elk for another few minutes in the video and it never flinched or even twitched after in collapsed.

So, if you plan on going with a 180 or heavier bullet in a win mag, I cannot imagine it performing to any lesser degree of efficiency, given good shot placement.

Doc is right, don't chamber your barrel for just one bullet - it is just too risky if your rifle (or you) end up liking something else...

Here is the way to do it: you settle on what you think will be longest (e.g. your 210 VLD) and the shortest bullet (e.g. a 150 grs Barnes TTSX) you'd like to be able to use. Now you start producing dummy rounds that will allow you to seat both your longest and your shortest bullet safely in the case, plus leave room enough in your mag, plus leave (maybe) .01-.02" to be able to chase the lands when they recede.

The trick now is to settle on a compromise that will allow you to set your longest and your shortest bullet maybe .005 - .01" off the lands. That is how you ask your smith to cut your freebore (provide dummy round). Stay no more than .002" above bullet diameter in the leade, and the thing will likely shoot well, and you'll be pretty flexible with respect to what bullet you'll eventually use...

- mike

Sounds like a good idea Thanks. I am thinking of getting mine rebarreled pretty soon.

I'd love to see the ballistics for that .308 180g Accubond out to 1000 yards from the .30-378 Wby. That was some pretty impressive shooting.

Nevermind... went to http://www.biggameinfo.com/index.aspx?page=%2fbalcalc.ascx and did some calculations.

Geez... over 1700fps and 1200ft-lbs at 1000 yards....

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Originally posted by mmaggi:
Nevermind... went to http://www.biggameinfo.com/index.aspx?page=%2fbalcalc.ascx and did some calculations.

Geez... over 1700fps and 1200ft-lbs at 1000 yards....

Just so you know, velocity for Mark Thompson MUST be at least 3350 fps for his TradeMark scope reticle to work. I get 1838 and 1350 respectively.

If you have a Rem700 and want to go cheap
Rocky Mountain Discount Sports on CY Ave In Casper
has a new (blue) 300Win Mag take-off barrel hanging on the wall
with an asking price of $50.... (on the rack next to the door on the back wall of the store)

It was there wednesday when I was there last...

AD

Well I was going to re barrel and talked to 308nate about it, However I went shooting last Sat and shot it. I put som e200 gr Accubonds thru it doing a quasi type lladder test and it shot in the .5's at times. So I am going to ride it out awhile. Thanks