I have never reloaded and I own too many rifles to be buying factory premium ammo and I have a 9 year old boy that would shoot 100 rounds a day through his RTem 700 youth 270 Win if I let him, so the thought of reloading comes to mind. Where would be a good place to start in purchasing reloading supplies. Is one of the RCBS Master reloading kits the best way to go or is it best to individualize components? Also how good of a chronograph does a guy need, there are so many to choose from? I really do enjoy taking my son to the range to shoot as much as I like to shoot. But this $30-$55 a box stuff is getting awful expensive. Any advice would be much appreciated.

The RCBS partner press Reloading kit looks like a good starter as does a number of others. RCBS is a good outfit. You can add to your gear component by component later as you find what your individual likes, dislikes and needs are. roger

AC, you are definetly ready for handloading. The RCBS Master kit is a good place to start. Buy die stes you need, do a bit of reading, get someone to mentor you f you can & load away. The savings will come back to you pretty quickly when you are talking high powered rifle rounds especially using premium componets.
Chronographs are a great tool, but not really required, they canbe helpful though. I love my Oehler but they aren't making them anymore, so the CED looks pretty good. I don't care much for the Chrony models as you are actuall shooting at your chronograph instead of inexpensive scrrens.

Don't exceed book maximum loads................
repeat 100 times,,,,,,,,,begin reloading

quote:

Originally posted by AggieDog:
Don't exceed book maximum loads................
repeat 100 times,,,,,,,,,begin reloading

Especially don't even START at book maximum loads.

Is there a good book I can read, or a video I can watch? I dont have anyone who can mentor me as the guy that I knew that used to reload moved outside. I have seen shells loaded and understand 90% of it.Install primer in brass, weigh powder for load, poor powder into shell compress bullet into shell using die and press,the things I dont understand are like in a full die set there is a resizing die, how much do you resize firformed brass? Can you use an unfired shell to get a measurement of how long the brass is supposed to be and the COL of a factory bullet to match your length? Thats the stuff that seems complicated to me. The case trimming and neck sizing.Determining how longt he completed bullet can be. I know it cant be that complicated but it discourages me when I get to where I dont know what something means. I am leaning this way (doing my own reloading) I just wish I had someone who could school me. Thanks for the replies.

The RCBS reloading equipment is good but add a calipers to the kit. First get a Lyman 48th edition Reloading hand book and read about reloading befor you use the equipment. I started reloading during 1952 and have helped people start reloading but I have always asked them to read a handbook while they learn .

don't be in a hurry. get a set pattern as to your routine. when you hit a block wall, get on this forum and ask, someone is usually here to get you an answer. i'm 75 and have been loading since 1954 and there is still a lot i need to know. enjoy every minute of it.

Pick up a good reloading manual (like Lyman's) and learn about the equipment and reloading process before you buy anything else. There's a lot of stuff that is nice to have but not necessary to get started. You can learn everything you need to know to begin safely reloading from the manual. It's not rocket science, but you do have to be careful.

The RCBS Master is a good kit. That's essentially what I started out with. I've had the same RCBS Rockchucker press for 35yrs and still use it. It's worth buying quality equipment the first time.

I agree with tuck 2, get a dial/digital caliper when you buy your reloading equipment. You just can't reload with out one. I would also recommend a bullet puller, you will make mistakes from time to time, and a bullet puller will allow you to save the componets. Get the book ABC's of Reloading, I found it a great help. You can never have too many reloading manuals around as well. I started with the RCBS Master Reloading kit as well and it is a great place to start. I would recommend a tumbler to clean your brass, I use the Lyman Turbo Tumbler and it saves a lot of time.

Handloading isn't rocket science but you shouldn't rush the process as well. Take your time, follow the steps, and spend a lot of time at the range. Never start at or exceed the max loads in your books and never load below the minimum charges. Once you get your loads tuned to your rifle you will enjoy the process of reloading even more. You probably will not see much savings in hand loading as you will be shooting your rifles a lot more often but your money does strech farther.

quote:

Originally posted by AlaskaCub:
Is there a good book I can read, or a video I can watch? I dont have anyone who can mentor me as the guy that I knew that used to reload moved outside. I have seen shells loaded and understand 90% of it.Install primer in brass, weigh powder for load, poor powder into shell compress bullet into shell using die and press,the things I dont understand are like in a full die set there is a resizing die, how much do you resize firformed brass? Can you use an unfired shell to get a measurement of how long the brass is supposed to be and the COL of a factory bullet to match your length? Thats the stuff that seems complicated to me. The case trimming and neck sizing.Determining how longt he completed bullet can be. I know it cant be that complicated but it discourages me when I get to where I dont know what something means. I am leaning this way (doing my own reloading) I just wish I had someone who could school me. Thanks for the replies.

AC:
1. To resize, adjust the die per instructions that come with it. It's quite straitforward however your question is valid.

2. For OAL, that's usually found in the reloading book. Another reason to get several manuals.
3. For case length & trimming, again, that's what the manual is for as well as a set of calipers. The critical thing is that cases not be longer than specs. If they are too much longer, then problems can crop up including but not limited to excessive pressure build up.
BTW, after you resize and trim to length you chamfer the neck to allow the bullet to seat.
Hope this helps some & isn't too confusing and yes, I'd recommend the RCBS starter kit but again, don't forget to acquire a set of calipers. Yer gonna need 'em. If ya have any more questions, post 'em here, somebody's gonna have an answer. Later, Bear in Fairbanks

Here is a great kit! A+++
http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=000449357

Clean up any powder spills with a broom and dust pan - not a dirt devil.

Thats a good price but I live in Alaska and with the weight of the kit, it will probably be cost effective with shipping its probably more cost effective to just to buy it at Sportsmans Warehouse here locally for $259.But thanks for the heads up. Can someone tell me what they would suggest I buy in addition to whats included in the RCBS Supreme kit. I know I need a caliper,tumbler,dies, shell holders for different calibers, loading block for my particular shells. Also thanks for the responses guys.

You will need the RCBS deburring tool to camfer the lip. You will need a case trimmer. A cheap Lyman is a good starter. I just upgraded to a cadilac in the Wilson series with a dial caliper. If you don't mind the expense it is a great one but I used the Lyman for a long time.

You need a primer pocket cleaner also. A tumbler is nice and I am glad that I have it but for a long time I just used brasso to clean my brass. Getting lazy as the years go by. The Sierra Bullet manual is a great manual also.

Warning, Loading is addictive. Have fun.

Can someone explain to me why there are 2 die sets and 1 die. I am looking at the RCBS full die set for my 300WSM.

Untill you get the hang of it I would also recommend you only load for one caliber. That way you chances of mixing loads, components, etc is at a minimum.
If the supreme kit does not include the RCBS hand priming tool I would also purchase one. But seeing you just gave me a great deal on a scope I can return the favor on my used RCBS Priming tool (not hand held) and RCBS collet case trimer. The case trimmer includes about half a dozen collets.
I replaced both of these tools with newer versions and they are in good condition.

I appreciate the offer Snowwolfe , the kit comes with a Hand Primer, and as for the case trimmer I wnat the easiest one to use. If the one you have is as easy as the RCBS Trim Pro manual I accept your offer but I dont know which one is easier. I am at the point where money is an issue but not so much of an issue that I want the most user friendly equipment I can get from the git go if you know what I mean.

My $.02 worth.

-Rock Chucker is a good press but skip the kit
- Get an electric powder scale / dispenser instead of a beam scale
- Get a hand priming tool instead of using the press. I'd get RCBS universal.
- get Lee crimp dies in each caliber
- Tumbler is critical
- get spray case lube instead of a lube pad

You'll appreciate these suggestions once you start

quote:

Originally posted by AlaskaCub:
Can someone explain to me why there are 2 die sets and 1 die. I am looking at the RCBS full die set for my 300WSM.

What you will need is a full length resize die which knocks the primer out in one step. There will also be a bullet seating die used after you prime and add powder to the resized case.

When you learn more decide to experiment there are all kind of dies to use. I use a bushing die from Redding for example but not something you need.
Keep it simple in the beginning.

When ever you load just do one caliber at a time and only have one type of powder on your bench at a time. Getting confused can create problems that can be hazardous to you and your rifle.

More great answers, thanks guys. I will be starting to reload for my new Kimber Montana 300WSM initially. That particular ammo is so damn expensive if you like Barnes bullets.

2 die sets always have 2 dies: one case resizing die and one bullet seating die.

Always do a little comparison shopping for the products you intend to buy at MidwayUSA.com. They have costumer reviews on all their products. Find out what others think before you spend your money.

Forster makes a good case trimmer which also doubles as a primer pocket cleaner. And, with an optional attachment you can outside turn case necks, too.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=614276

Nobody brought this up yet, but you're going to thank me for this tip: do not use the RCBS case lube and lube pad. Instead buy a tin of sizing die wax and dry neck lube.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=519525
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=319390

Buy yourself a bullet comparator and begin measuring loaded cartridge length from the ogive instead of the tip.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=709931

Midway also has a good selection of reloading DVD's and videos.

I have a much dog-eared copy of Metallic Cartridge Reloading, 3rd edition, by M. L. McPherson. It is a compilation of many reloading manuals and has 10K recipes. But most of all, 76 pages of 'everything you always wanted to know about reloading.' From beginner to expert.

Don't forget to use AR's search function for answers to questions others asked the past 8 years. Good luck!

quote:

Originally posted by AlaskaCub:
More great answers, thanks guys. I will be starting to reload for my new Kimber Montana 300WSM initially. That particular ammo is so damn expensive if you like Barnes bullets.

Money saving tip for you. If you plan to hunt with Barnes bullets and I highly recommend them, then work up you loads with cheap Sierras and practice with them. Fine tune you loads with the TSX prior to hunting. Saves a lot of money.

Only thing I reccommend is you get an electronic scale. I have an early battery powered PACT that I have been using since they came out. I load everything from .17 to .470NE and find it works for all. It's slow but I'm rarely in a hurry when reloading. I use a Lyman trimmer with a collet chuck so all you have to buy is pilots and it came with most of those. You will find the other things you need thru practice. The RCBS set I started with 30+ years ago I still use although I have supplemented the Reloader Special press with a new Rockchucker some years back. I prefer RCBS equipment for what thats worth. I just looked at my bench and I'm currently reloading for 15 calibers from a count of the die sets on the shelf. It's addictive.

I will gladly tell you what I know and have learned in the over 12 years that I have been reloading for rifle, handgun and shotgun. Sorry if any of it is a repeat of advice already given, but I did not want to take the time to read all the previous posts.

I strongly agree with what others have posted in you can not possably go wrong by buying an RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit. It is $249.95 from Natches Shooters Suplies, website www.natchezss.com.
I did when I first started out and have never regreted it or looked back since. Although I have gotten rid of and replaced a few items from the kit, (I will list them and explain why lator in this post) I still use most of it today. Buying the kit will save you a considerable amount of deceased presidents. Both the Rock Chucker press and the RCBS 5-0-5 ballance beem scale that comes in the kit are well made and will give you, your children and hopefully your grandchildren a lifetime of great service and are capable of producing superbly accurate reloads. RCBS also backs all their reloading equipment with no questions asked policy and second to none in the industry customer service. The same can be said of all the items sold in the kit as well.

First and of foremost importance. Nothing that you buy for reloading will be of greater importance than a first rate pair of safety glasses for yourself and anyone else who will be reloading with you.

Reloading manuals I use and would recommend:

Althogh the RCBS Rock chucker Master reloading kit comes with a Sierra reloading manual I feel quite strongly that you should seriously consider buying the fallowing manual as a great source of reloading information.
My favorite is the latest Lyman 48th Eddition Reloading Handbook. Great manual with easy to understand explanations and lots of pictures. It also has easy to understand, step by step instructions for all aspects of reloading both rifle and handgun cartrages. It will tell you all you need to know to get you started reloading. It also includes reloads using most of the powders and bullets available to day, a big plus.
I also own Hornadys Fifth Edition reloading manuals as I bought the two book set. It is also a vary good manual especialy if you are going to reload with Hornady bullets, something I strongly recommend.

I own several other reloading manuals, but as you are starting out I think it is best that you only buy what you need to get you started. Most of the other manuals I own eithor dont do anything any better than the Lyman 48th edition, or thay are for much more advanced reloading application, not something a beginner needs.

<>Get yourself a good caliper dial or digital. I perfer digital and use the one made by Cabelas, but the ones made by Lyman or RCBS are just as good. Regardless of what type you buy or who makes it, a caliper is an absolute, must have tool for reloading.

<>Reloading Dies:
Again there are alot of great reloading dies out there, but the ones I use and recommend are made by Redding, but I have heard nothing but good things about RCBS dies. Hopefully someone can give you their opinions of RCBS dies and which ones you should consider buying. Redding is by no means the only choise when it comes to dies.

Now for some additional reloading tools or items I can not recommend highly enough. I use them personally and would not reload with out them.

<>Hornady hand held priming tool item and stand. It costs around $36.00 with stand
I have used reloading tools from Lee and two from RCBS and feel the Hornady does a much better job of allowing me to "feel" when I have seated the primer properly than the RCBS and is IMHO a better overall design than the RCBS and it fit my large hand much better than the Lee did. If you have average to small sized hands the Lee is also better then the RCBS hand primimg tool that comes in the Master reloading kit. If you order/buy the Hornady Priming tool make sure to the proper shell holders as well. It would be a good idea to order doubles of all your shell holders as cheep insurance against loss, as I have done.

<>Lyman VLD Chamfer/Reamer tool, cost is around $7.75.
I cannot recommend you buy this tool strongly enough. The chamfer/reamer tool that comes with the RCBS Master kit cuts at a much stronger 45* degrees as oposed to 22* degrees for the Lyman VLD tool. I had to buy my Lyman VLD tool after I experienced the mouths of my rifle cases shaving my bullets while seating them. This was caused by the 45* cutting edges of the RCBS tool that came in the kit. The shaving problem instantly ceesed when I started using the Lyman VLD

<>Lee case trimming tool and extras. Some may disagree with this recommendation but I have had great success using the Lee case trimming tool as fallows.
If you buy the Lee kit as I will call it, it works fast, accurate and is quite affordable, and brain dead simple to set up and use as compaired to almost any other case trimmer out there.
The Lee case trimming Kit as I use it and recommend you buy:
<>Lee carbide Large cutter and lock stud, cost $6.50
You can (as I do) place the Lee lock stud in a battery drill on low RPM setting and trimming even large numbers of brass is a snap.
<>Lee caliber spacific case length gauge with free shell holder.
I have been using this case trimmimg system while chucked in my 18v Dewalt Bat drill for over 10 years and I am 100% satisfied. You could buy enough sets to trimm 10 different calibers and still not even come close to the cost of any other case trimmer. You simply place/chuck the lock stud in your bat drill, slide the case holder on to it, slide your shell into the case holder and screw down tight. You then screw the case length gauge into the ball grip cutter insert into shell and turn on drill, gently apply pressure to cutter. The case length gauge automaticly stops the cutting at the correct SAMMI case length. The only thing other case trimmers can do that the Lee can not is adjust the amount of trimming you do of the case. I have never found this to be of any importance as all my rifles are factrory produced.

<>Buy a powder trickler, as I beleive the Master reloading kit does not come with one.
I own and use a Redding but there are cheaper models out there that are just as good.Ones made by RCBS and Lyman will work 100% as good for less than $10.00 A powder trickler comes in handy for when you need charges that are in tenths of a grain. It was also my experience that the RCBS Uniflow powder dispencer that comes with the Master kit has trouble cutting the longer (especially the extruded single based powders) extruded stick powders like RL-19, RL-22, IMR-4350, and IMR-4831 and similar powders to give accurate powder charge weights. I found it was nessasary to set my RCBS Uniflow Powder despencer a grain or so light then use the trickler to get it to exact weight as desiered. Again this is only true with long grain mostly rifle powders and not handgun ball powders. As a truely Polish cheap alturnative you can also use a 35mm film canister as a poor mans powder trickler. You just put the powder in it and roolit side to side in your fingers to add powder, not as controlable or consisitant as a true trickler but it will work.

<>A primer pocket uniformer. Lots of options here. I use and highly recommend the one made by K&M but I can not remember where I bought mine. I have one for both large and small primer pockets. I also use stainless steel primer pocket cleaning brushes as well, which are available from just about everybody.. The reasons I bought the Primer pocket cleaners/uniformers made by K&M were #1- thay are idiot-proof pre-set to SAMMI satndards and are non-adjustable. Extreamly well made with replacable carbide cutting edges. And lastly thay are designed to be placed in a bat drills chuck to make even large numbers of primer pocket uniforming a snap. If interested K&Ms phone# is (717)-292-3175. Thay are located in Dover PA. You can also do a Google surch for "K&M primer pocket uniformers" and see what comes up. I know I bought mine from one of the mail order reloading companies, I just cant remember which one.

<>Lyman makes a great affordable reloading log book that I have a nd strongly recommend you get. You can buy them anywhere reloading supplies are sold. You should keep as Consise and exact records of your reloading as is possable. It often proves to be of priceless value lator down the road. One Lyman log book should last you for years.

<>Hornady "One Shot" case resizing lube. This stuff is the cats rectal cavity. Once you use "one Shot" you will through out the lube abd pad that came with the RCBS Master Kit. Trust me on this.

A few Items although not absolutely mandatory you buy them you should at least buy them at some point in your reloading. Better to have them and not need them than the other way around.
#1-<>Hornady Cam-Lock bullet puller. You use this to extract bullets from loaded shells that for what ever reason you are not going to fire. A good example would be a shell you have seated a bullet and powder in only to discover you did not prime it. I chose the Hornady because it was the one with the most simple to set up and use design I could find and it also will not marr the bullet durring the pulling process. It screws into your press much like a reloading die. It is especially helpfull if you screw up and have to pull more than just a few shells.

#2-A stuck case remover. Im told if you reload long enough you will need one. I have the one made by RCBS but I can not give you an evaluation as I have not thankfully used mine yet.


Now for some advice for a beginning reloader.
I know its obvious you must find a place to reload that is clean, dry, extreamly well lit, and a good reloading table or bench, but idealy it should be quiet and free from distractions like TV, radio, anything that might get your mind off what you are doing and be well organized at all times. Understand and accept compleatly that reloading (with a single stage press like the Rock Chucker) is slooooow dilberate process that under no serconstanses what so ever is to be rushed or hurried. Your personal well being depends heavly on you doing this.

After you get your reloading area set up, before you even order your first pound of powder, box of bullets, or primers you should read and re-read your reloading manuals as many times as nessasary untill you fully understand every single reloading step compleatly. The same goes for any peice of reloading equipment you buy. Especially since you said you are on your own and have no one to mentore or instruct you as you start to reload.

It is obvious you have a computer as you are on the net. I would use one of the programs to create a reloading sheet as ( I mentioned above) EXACT record keeping is of the utmost importance in reloading. This helps you in many ways as on this sheet you should list caliber you are reloading, powder type, lot# & charge weight, primer type, & lot# bullet type, weight & lot#, date reloaded and shot. This info I also write on a peice of masking tape and attatch to the ammo box I have my reloads stored in so I know what reloads thay are. It is impossable to do this once thay are reloaded. You should also record on this reloading sheet details like range conditions, accuracy/group size, how well you feel you shot, any thing you feel was out of the ordanary and a host of other info you deem important. All of this should be kept in your records for future refrence.

Lastly these are the reloading rules I live buy that I hope will most likely prove helpfull to you.

#1-Safety glasses are to be worn at all times while reloading
#2-No food or drink in the reloading room/area while actually reloading
#3-Do not start to reload unless you are 100% sure you can compleat what you start.
#4-Never Ever have more than one type of powder, primer or bullet out on the reloading table/bench at any one time. No exceptions what so ever. As a matter of fact the way I reload is I NEVER have powder, primers, or bullets out at the same time. I only allow one of the three components out and in use at any time.
#5-No disterbances, interuptions or distractions of any kind allowed. When I am reloading I dont take phone calls unless absolutely nessasary, unless reloading with me, no friends over to visit, no radios or TV allowed, and no "Hay honey can you give me a hand for a second BS what so ever. Once I start to reload I am to be left alone till done. Period, no exceptions.
#6-I always have a pre-printed reloading sheet with all important information written on it before I start any reloading steps so I know exactly what Im doing. This same info is to be listed on a masking tape lable and atatched to the ammo box that will hold my reloads JUST immediately before I start.
#7-Establish and never deveate from without absolute cause, a deliberate step by step reloading process from start to finsh. The key IMHO to acheiving the utmost in accurate reloads is to preform the same exact reloading step the exact same way every in the exact same order every time you do it. This also makes for a vary safe reloading process.
#8-NEVER, EVER, EVER be in a hurry or rush while reloading, EVER.

You mentioned the high cost of shooting factory ammo. I can reload the equivalent of any top of the line premium ammunition for less than 1/3 the cost.

Well I hopw at least some of this was helpfull to you. If anyone cares to add to my suggestions please feel free to do so.

Best of luck reloading and be safe.
Arthur.

Arthur that was well written and very informative. Thanks for taking the time to write it.

Cub

quote:

<>Buy a powder trickler, as I beleive the Master reloading kit does not come with one.
I own and use a Redding but there are cheaper models out there that are just as good.Ones made by RCBS and Lyman will work 100% as good for less than $10.00 A powder trickler comes in handy for when you need charges that are in tenths of a grain. It was also my experience that the RCBS Uniflow powder dispencer that comes with the Master kit has trouble cutting the longer (especially the extruded single based powders) extruded stick powders like RL-19, RL-22, IMR-4350, and IMR-4831 and similar powders to give accurate powder charge weights. I found it was nessasary to set my RCBS Uniflow Powder despencer a grain or so light then use the trickler to get it to exact weight as desiered. Again this is only true with long grain mostly rifle powders and not handgun ball powders. As a truely Polish cheap alturnative you can also use a 35mm film canister as a poor mans powder trickler. You just put the powder in it and roolit side to side in your fingers to add powder, not as controlable or consisitant as a true trickler but it will work

i think that a 303 british case works well! just use it the same way as the film canister. i think it would be a little more controlable.

also, It is also important to maintain good concentration while loading otherwise silly mistakes can be made. Do not load ammo when you are tired, pissed or stoned or suffering from alzheimers. and remember reloading is susceptible to human error.