Just wondering what everyone looks at on a rifle at time of purchase once they decide on a particular model. What things do you check on the gun......for example, if you have 3 of the same model 700's in .308 boxed up in front of you, what specifically do you check on the gun to pick one over the other. Just interested in hearing different suggestions. Thanks.

If it is a wood stock, quality of the wood, inletting, how straight the barrel channel seems to be cut. How does the bolt operate - any difference in smoothness?? If it is a synthetic, is it floppy enough for the barrel to be likely to hit the forearm during recoil?? How loud is the stock??

Sadly, it is usually not possible to check whether mount holes for scope are straight. If you have a magnifying glass, how does the crown look??

- mike

Does the sales girl have big mammary's?

If not you will be able to concentrate on the basics. I agree with MHO, as it is very limited as to what one can do over the counter. Feel, fit and function. Everything visual including sex appeal (blueing, finish, & wood quality) Feel the trigger, bolt and how it shoulders. Try the floor plate, magazine, saftey, or whatever. Try for ESP to answer the tuff question: "Which one goes home with me."

At Sportsman's Warehouse she can talk gun BS with the best of us.

quote:

Originally posted by 308Sako:
Does the sales girl have big mammary's?

Yes she does.

ZM

buy all 3, shoot them, sell the worse 2..you are down $100.00 but have saved a $700.00 blue print rebarelling job.

If 3 700's were on the counter, I would tell them too get that junk away from me!

teesh,
I agree with mho's posting!
Look them all over real good. Does the recoil pad fit well? Does the trigger guard sit squarley? Does it have a door or a clip and do they fucntion properly?
Some things I look for is: Can I get a dollar bill into the channel and where is the beeding and pressure points? How does the grain of the wood look and is it well stained and protected? If it is a laminate (I don't do synthetic, I like wood) are the layers even and layed out nice (good looking grain pattern)? How difficult, or worse on a hunting rifle, how noisey is the saftey?
And to be honest with you, I am like MajorCaliber, almost. What are you looking for in a rifle and how much money do you have to spend? (don't forget the cost of a GOOD scope, no TASCO pronghorns) Nowdays there are alot of rifle brands to choose from and the most important thing to remember when choosing, "How well does it fit YOU?" Try shouldering it a few times. Caress it for comfort. You do not want to have to adjust to the rifle.


Smedley

quote:

Originally posted by teesh:
... What things do you check...if you have 3 of the same model 700's in .308 boxed up in front of you, what specifically do you check on the gun to pick one over the other?...

Hey Teesh, First off, you are looking at some of the most accurate rifles made and a great cartridge for them to be chambered in.

As for me, if they are "new", I want Stainless and Synthetic. Had to hunt toooooo many years with Rusting Blue and warping Termite Food as it was.

Then do a Visual Inspection, looking for obvious things which could indicate it might have been dropped by a previous handler. Check the Muzzle Crown for smoothness(no nicks), proper alignment in the stock, and that the recoil pad is mounted square.

With the rifle on the counter, hold a straight edge along-side the scope mounting holes, then bend over and get a general idea if the straight edge aligns with the Bore.

Work the bolt slowly(very slowly) to see if you can locate any noticable rough points or places where it might hang just a bit. Most of this is normal and will burnish itself out, but it could be used to help make the initial pick.

Dry Fire the trigger, but understand it is probably going to need adjustment. If you feel comfortable doing it yourself, that is fine, or a Trigger Smith can take the excellent Factory Remington Trigger apart and make it as slick as a Democrat "claiming" he isn't interested in raising TAXES.

Work the Safety and pull the Trigger with it "On", then move it to "Off" and see if the Striker falls. (Should be done on all rifles.)

If it has a Hinged Floor Plate or a removeable magazing, work with them a bit. Sometimes they hang or are difficult to work.

If it has a removeable magazine, get one or two extra ones, because they can get bent outside the rifle.

That is about it for a new one.
---

If you are looking at a Previously Owned rifle, then you might want to consider this list of stuff to keep you out of trouble:


1. Do you know the previous owner(s) and how he cared for the firearm? Not the obvious external rust and termites, but rather how is the Throat or Lead?
2. Speaking of rust and termites, have you looked for rust with the stock removed?
3. Have you had the Bolt apart to see what condition it is in?
4. Did a previous owner shoot it as fast as he could while the barrel was too hot to hold?
5. Did a previous owner “Lap the Bore†to remove/hide pits?
6. Was a previous owner a reloader that believed it was OK to use Over-Loads?
7. How is the Headspace?
8. Has the barrel been set-back a thread?
8a. Why?
9. Has any portion of the firearm been re-blued?
9a. Why?
10. Has the termite food stock been re-finished?
10a. Why?
11. Is the Recoil Pad in complete alignment all the way around?
12. Does the Front Sling Swivel stud make contact with the Barrel?
13. Is the Rear Sling Swivel in proper alignment?
14. Is the barrel completely Free Floated?
14a. Did it come that way from the factory?
14b. If it is different from the way it was shipped, why?
15. Has the stock been Bedded differently than as it left the factory?
15a. Was it done to repair or hide a split in the termite food?
15b. Does the termite food Warp in changing environmental conditions?
16. Is the Trigger original?
16a. Any rust, built-up trash, or residue within the Trigger recesses?
17. Does the Safety work properly?
And last but most certainly not least,
18. How much “Cumulative Metal Fatigue†does it have from all the previous years of use?
If you DO NOT HAVE good answers for those questions concerning the specific Used rifle, then they become reasons a person should consider not buying it.

All these suggestions are good. A couple worth looking at in addition are:
1.When you are checking the crown, if the bore doesn't look like it is in the center on the barrel, it's probably not. Pick another rifle.
2.If you push the barrel to one side of the forend, and it stays, that is a bad sign. Pick another rifle.

I ask myself 2 questions:
1. Will this rifle provide me with a good action?

2. How much can I get out of the stock and barrel?

There are a lot of good suggestions here, and I certainly appreciate it. This is a new Rem. 700 Classic (2005) that comes in .308 that I'm looking at (24" blued barrel, wood stock). Very good looking gun.