Howdy folks,
Looking for anyone with experience with this old cartridge. I've been playing around with one, a Sako, for three years, with problems arising from difficulty in finding proper brass, then the 0.318 bullets, the discovering proper loading data. For example, when I load to recommended data from older manuals, including Norma, I get excellent performance, dead on velocity per chronograph, no pressure signs on Norma and RWS brass, BUT sticky, hard to open bolt lifts on firing. When I back off t lighter loads (300 fps lower) the bolt lift becomes normal, and accuracy is still okay. Seems pretty frustrating to me. After having gone thru all the effort to obtain the good Woodleigh, RWS and S&B components, I do not want to give up on this one. I am using IMR-4895 and N-203 powders. Any suggestions?

LLS

Can't help with the rimless or .318 bore but did have an s bore rimmed 8x60 double. I used load data from the Ken Waters article in the Number 118 Nov/Dec 1985 issue of Handloader. This was specifically about the 8x60'S' so don't know how much it would help. I also used the load data found here on AR in the reloading tables. I used RCBS forming dies and I of course had to form brass from 9.3x74R and RCBS supplied the trim and neck ream die. I understand the rimless cases can be easily formed from 30-06 brass.Good luck.

Just because the reloading manual states a given quantity of powder, does not mean you can use that quantity in your rifle. Sounds like you might have pressure issues.

I have a Guild rifle chambered in 8x60S and like it very much. Rather than beat your head against this, have you considered have the rifle bored to .323"

MCA man

I would ask the folliwing questions, that might be causing the heavy bolt lift.

First, are the bolt lugs and firing pin cocking notch lubed with a quality grease.

Are the bolt lugs rough.

Second are you sure your brass is trimmed short enough, ie not to spec in some book but for your chamber.

Third is your chamber, including the shoulder and neck rough or need to be cleaned.

Fourth is your chamber out of round, or is your barrel/action not alligned straight.

Fifth is your bolt face rough or is the extractor binding on the case rim as the bolt rotates.
Is there evidence of shaved brass.


Those are some of the things that might cause hard bolt lift after firing.

Also what is the bullet weight and velocity when you drop the loads 300fps and the rifle works fine.

Howdy guys,

Thanks for your suggestions. I am not ready to go the rebore/rebarrel route yet, not when I have collected several hundred 0.318 bullets to use. (RWS, S&B, Norma, Woodleigh)

Lets see, top velocity with 196-200 grain Norma and Woodleigh bullets is 2600 fps
300 fps less, same bullets, velocity is 2283-2297 fps

I've thoroughly scrubbed the chamber and barrel and had my gunsmith look the rifle over as well. There is no evidence of shaved brass. Have not checked the brass OAL which you suggest trimming to minimum. That's a possibility too.

No doubt I do have some sort of pressure issue, and in a peculiar way, I am considering purchasing another 8x60 (0.318) rifle to continue the study, heck, it is nothing more than an 8mm .30-06!

Thanks guys

LLS

I haven't yet loaded or fired my 8x60S but I have started to accumulate some load data.

Those bullets are likely to be 200gr? Perhaps 4895 is a trifle fast for that? The load data I've seen shows 4350 etc being better for velocity.

I had one rifle like that - it was a 6.5x55 that had the standard bolt face (0.473"?)from the 7x57 it had been. When using continental brass exactly the same would happen. Traced it to the bolt face bearing on the slightly over size rim. My experience with RWS brass is that it can often be a little strange at the base (my 8x60s needed a #3 shellholder for a 6.5x55 to fit) so I wonder if you have a combination of very slightly oversize brass at the rim and a burr or something on the bolt face.

Try turning a rim down a small amount.