Under normal use and no abuse has anyone here ever broken a Ruger rifle?
I have a boat load of Ruger rifles and have never broken anything on one! Am I just lucky or are they that good? < !--color-->

Most of the factory offerings will last you a long time. I have awell worn M77/tang safety that has been shot & hunted a bunch. I broke a ejector button & spring. It jammed the bolt solid but the gentle rap of a mallet opened it & I had to get new parts, been going strong ever since.

I've never broken one, but I also never had one that you could hit the inside of a barn with if the doors were closed. I don't know of pitiful accuracy counts as "broken", but it sure ain't a good thing. It's enough to convince me to never buy another.

Never broken anything on mine, and I've owned a few (old 77's mostly, plus a 10/22 that wsa a bit cahellenging, but liked stingers, but nothing else! Current favourite squeeze is a 77 MkII in 270, that is boringly accurate - half inch at 100 yards. Consistently. Without waiting 4 hours for the barrel to cool between shots, It's a stainless/laminate, floated barrel, bedded action with Timney trigger, and it ain't for sale under any circumstances! As to accuracy, I've found that in order to hit the inside of a barn with doors closed, one must first enter the barn. Mine have all been real shooters - a bit fiddly to start with, butthere is NO WAY I would buy a Rem or Win these days. Unfortunately I'm not on Ruger's payroll, but am prepared to consider the offer!

I thought they came from the factory that way, and when you fixed whatever was wrong with them,,, then they were great.

I've seen very few failures with Rugers, but the Mini-14 is the one I've seen fail the most.

Never seen any part of a bolt action Ruger break.

I think the canoe paddle synthetics are the toughest rifles I ever laid my eyes on. I've had mine through hell and back. It only looks a couple of years old(its 14 or 15) and it's fallen down many slides, rolled down a hillside on my quad, fell from 10' high into a shallow rocky creek, been stuck in the ground barrel first up to the fore stock, and a hell of alot of neglect. Still shoots sub moa with 154gr. Hornady Ilocs.

This is the rifle I grab when I know the potential for rolling down a mountain is there.

I have had 9 Ruger Model 77s .The only one broken was broken when I bought it off internet.The trigger guard was broken,it was chrome plated not stainless like the guy said,the screws were all wrong,the floor place is not the right one.I am rebuilding it .The stock barrel channel was wittled on also.Its a 338 win mag so its worth fixing in Mark I.All the others had 0 problems and shot under an inch or less at 100 yards with right loads.I like new Mark II stainless but hate the model 70 type safety.

Not to piss on your Wheaties, but hey Boltman, jump on over to my website and check out a tang safety 77 30/06 that'll flat shoot with any 30/06 made, period. Then look under the .243 Mark II and see the first four shots out of my new 77. This restored my faith in Ruger. I also have an ultralight .308 77 MKII that's no slouch. I've had my bouts of depression over some Ruger 77s I've had, but the batch I have now must have been made when the planets were aligned, and with management watching. They're out there you just have to sift, sift, sift.

Actually yes I have. And it was the reciever which let go. Would you believe it was a 10/22! The reciever fractured right behind and below the ejection port. This caused the rifle to fail to fire on occasion and is now a rusted piece of junk in my tool shed. A tomato stake so to speak.

While I have never broken a Ruger rifle, I did inspect my buddys .338 stainless that had broken a part - on the 3-position safety (BTW the Win M-70 style safety is the best there is without a doubt.)

Anyway, what was happening in the "fully safe" position was that the bolt could still be operated. Upon futher inspection I found what had broken. There is a small pin that blocks the bolt from rotating. This pin (somewhere in the 0.10" diameter range) had sheared off. Now the engineer in me says it shouldn't take much force to get this to shear. The dummy still hasn't got it fixed.

Speaking of that, I've never understood why they would've designed a safety to prevent the bolt from operating. I like the 3-position safeties that allow operation of the bolt with the rifle on "SAFE," but it seems to me it would've been better to leave it at two positions with the bolt operable.

The tang safety switch on the old M77 is the best arrangement of all for manipulating the safety.

Seems pretty unlikely to occur, to me.

Never broken one, but as boltman said I've owned 3 that you couldn't hit a barn from the inside with. I have a 4th one now that isn't steallar either but it's isn't in the same shotgun class as the other three I had (which were all gifts).

Ricochet,

First of all, I'm glad Edguello explained it to you. I was figuring . . . if it needed to be explained . . . you probably wouldn't get it.

I guess it depends on where you're from. The tang safety is a great one for still hunting. I have one a Ruger #1 and I've used them on an older M77. They're great when you're carrying your rifle IN YOUR HANDS. It's just when it's not in the hands when the problems arise.

I KNOW THIS FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE!!!! I've live in coastal Alaska. You'll drop your deer anywhere from 100 yds to 1 mile from the beach or road. You often drag the deer out with a rope and dragging stick. The rifle IS SHOULDERED ON YOUR BACK AND OVER YOUR NECK. I am hunting in bear country and want to KEEP THE GUN LOADED IN CASE I'M JUMPED BY BRUNO. I'm draggin thru blueberry/bunchberry/alder brush and devils club (a genuine Alaskan treat!!) up to my eyeballs. THE GUN WILL GET HUNG UP ON BRUSH!!! I've dumped plenty of .338 rounds never to be found again. You hear the bold rattling around and that's your clue that it's happened again.

Go ahead, don't belive me

Okey-doke.