I just took advantage of the going out of business sales at Joes Sports and picked up a Browning 30-06 A-Bolt II Medalion ($591), and a Bushnell Elite 4200 2.5-10x50MM scope w/Raingaurd ($262). OK deal?

I took the rifle and scope to a local gun shop (that had good reviews) to have the scope mounted and once I get it back, I'd like to take it to the range and get things started.

So since I've alrready made my purchase, I'd really be intersted in opinions about how I should break this rifile in, what I should pick up and use for cleaning supplies, and process if you're partial to one. What recommendations you might have for a sling in rainy SW Washington, and any reccomendations of factory ammo to pipe through this gun. I intend to hunt both Black Tail deer and Roosevelt elk.

I have already ordered a Lucas Bore Guide, and a Tipton one piece cleaning rod to get started. What else?

Thanks for any help you folks can send my way.

Mike

Nice rig you bought there at a good price. If you read through the Gun Cleaning Forum, there will be more than enough information you need about cleaning. The foaming bore cleaners are quite popular for removing heavy copper fouling but not always necessary. Bore Tech Eliminator works good and there are scads more. I use several kinds that I buy on sale. They most all work fine if you don't let the bore get too dirty.

Get a pointed jig and a slotted one to hang your patches on. I don't know which is best but I use both. I don't use metal brushes much. If you stay on top of things and use good bore solvent, a nylon brush and just patches are probably all you will ever need to keep the bore in good shape.

A 50:50 mix of Kroil and a good muzzleloader bore solvent is what I use first to remove powder fouling. I think M-Pro 7 is the commercial version of this. It is a good powder solvent too. Patch this out good and then follow with a good bore solvent formulated for copper removal until the patches come out fairly clean. Then oil the bore good to remove all traces of the copper solvent and patch out a few times to dry the bore.

I would give the gun a good cleaning before I went out to fire it the first time. Every new gun I've bought was dirty and I like to start out clean. That's just me.

I think the detailed breakin procedure is a waste of ammo and time. Many will disagree. I shoot a group or two for the first time and then clean it. That's what I do for about 3 times and then I just let the gun tell me when it needs cleaning. Mostly about every 20 shots. And you don't,IMO, need to get every last bit of copper out. Always fire a fouling shot or two after cleaning before you shoot a group. Watch where they go in relation to your group. Some rifles need fouling shots and some don't. With a nice clean barrel, my first shot seems to go high and to the right from the main group of five shots. On the subject of cleaning guns, opinions vary greatly as you will find out.

Be sure to let the barrel cool down some between shots. If it feels hot to the hand, it's best to let it cool down IMO.

For a starting factory ammo, I would use Remington Corelokt in 165gr. and practice a good bit. If you have not done much rifle shooting, I would buy a bolt action 22 rimfire and practice with it.

If elk is the target you may want to read and talk to folks about their favorite bullets. I am not an elk hunter so I can't give experienced opinion.

However, you can't go wrong with the 165 corelokt for deer and big hogs. I bet the plain ol corelokts will kill elk too. Others will opine.

The 165 gr. is a great balance of bullet in the 30-06.

I have two older Browning A-bolts and both are very accurate guns with no tinkering needed. Both are 30-06; one stainless/syn and one walnut/blue.

Good luck on your new adventure and get someone to teach you handloading. It will double your pleasure. Merg

quote:

I'd really be intersted in opinions about how I should break this rifile in,

Nothing special....just shoot it as you would any rifle....breakin is a myth!

quote:

what I should pick up and use for cleaning supplies, and process if you're partial to one.

I'm a big fan of cotton mops and phosphor bronzw brushes.

Mop the barrel once every 40 rounds with a good copper solvent. There's a lot of them out there. Brush the barrel several strokes and mop again with a very light oil and once more mop the barrel dry. Try to do this at the range and then fire several rounds in fun and put the rifle away dirty!.....yes....dirty!

quote:

What recommendations you might have for a sling in rainy SW Washington,

I happen to like the 1" nylon black strap.....you may not....get what you like!

quote:

and any reccomendations of factory ammo to pipe through this gun. I intend to hunt both Black Tail deer and Roosevelt elk.

150 grain anything for deer and Federal premium with Nosler partitions for elk.....180 grain!

Barrel break-in is a myth.

Don

vapor dog and dmb hit the nail on the head!!!!!

Sorry guys I think your all full of shit. Or wrong whatever you want to call it. Barrels do smooth up or "break in" over time.


Mikemc
Break your barrel in the way you want to. But do check out some online info, but your barrel will smooth up in time and stress releave in time.

I have not used the "Breaking in procedure", but did see a period where groups began to tighten up, & now also after removal of copper fouling a much shorter period of similar effects coming back onto zero.

I am convinced that the break in stuff is nonsense, except MAYBE for the benchresters.

Just shoot your rifle.

Clean it with Hoppe's No. 9 and Wipe Out, with a few swipes of Butch's Bore Shine and JB too just to be sure.

I predict that you will be happy.

IMHO, Browning has lost major style points since the heydays of the Hi Power and the FN 98 actioned rifles of the 1960s.

But their rifles, shotguns and pistols have always shot straight, no matter whether made or assembled in Belgium, Japan or Portugal.

Just a bit too shiny in latter days for my old-fashioned tastes.

Damn Mike, that's a helluva first post!

First off, yes, you did very well on that deal. $262 for an Elite 4200 is superb. The rifle's decently priced. IMO, and this is just one man's opinion, but with the money you saved you might consider purchasing a single-stage reloading setup.

A Hornady LnL single stage with their free bullet offer would put you well ahead of the game and set you up for cheap reloading down the road.

Ok, for the rest of this - opinions vary. If you are hunting from a blind, there's not much need at all for a sling unless you have a looooong walk to the blind. This is wholey a personal preference thing - my favorite sling is a 2.5" wide neoprene/lycra sling - it gives a tad when I walk with it and it's the most comfortable sling I own. On the other hand, when I blind hunt in Texas I don't bother with a sling. 3-rounds go into the rifle the moment I park the car at 4am...

Invest in ammo. Do a lot of practice shooting. And enjoy that rifle as the perfect do-anything gun on the planet!

PS: And you do understand that any new gun purchase requires that you post pics, right?

barrels do smooth up over a period of time but there's no reason why you can't be shooting it whilst its smoothing up. I tried the "shoot 1, clean, etc" routine and couldn't see any advantage to it except to enrich the ammo vendors.
Just avoid heat. Never shoot the rife so many time so quickly that you can't pick it up by the barrel.
I don't know how big a Roosevelt elk is but with a 30-06, you don't need any magic bullet for it to do it's best work. If you're planning on using store bought ammo, Remington Core Lokt 180's will take you where you want to go. There's probably more deer and maybe elk killed every year with that bullet than all the rest.

Thanks for great responses. I see where many of you recommend reloading your own ammo. Sounds great to me, but after the cost of my setup I think I will look for used equipment. Given that, what should I look for to make sure I'm not getting a worn out press or garbage dies?

Thanks

Most cast iron presses are fine, I have Redding, Rcbs, Lee classic and an aluminum Midway, all are good.
The lighter weight older Lees may have some issues -- but not too often.
Most dies are rarely worn out, can happen, just not routine.
New 06 dies are cheap anyway, if you are concerned.

As to slings , I walk alot, I like the Alaskan

http://www.manventureoutpost.c...nfo&products_id=6152

PS: they come in several colors now

As to breakin and cleaning rituals---they vary
Just like what calibre you think is best

For a quick clean , its Accelerator and Wipe-Out.

A "Deep" clean : KG-12 ( safe non-toxic) , and ISSO non-metal, or Hoppes Tenex nylon brushes,

MUCH different than when I was taught benchrest techniques--though if you wish you may choose those procedures.
I no longer find the effort beneficial in my rifles
I know others opinions vary greatly.
Enjoy your new rifle .
BTW, I love the Berger VLD hunting Bullets, but in truth, most new "premium" factory loads are all you need , so you don't need ( There I go again) to reload , but it is rewarding
Cheers

I have found especially with factory barrels, that with a proper breakin that they clean much easier.

The old shoot 1 then clean until no copper for the first ten, then 3 shot groups between cleaning for the next twenty or so rounds is what I do. Then clean 'till no more copper after each range trip.

I always like a rifle to shoot with a clean bore. At some point a barrel gets too fouled for accuracy, I would hate that point to be reached when I needed accuracy most.

But.......you know what opinions are like????

quote:

Originally posted by DuggaBoye:

For a quick clean , its Accelerator and Wipe-Out.

A "Deep" clean : KG-12 ( safe non-toxic) , and ISSO non-metal, or Hoppes Tenex nylon brushes,

Someone reminded me I forgot the first thing I do---

I use GM top engine cleaner as my decarbon step

And my final step--

OIL--- the weapon and the BORE--- I like EEZOX, but there are others that are good and less $$$.

In general,right before the next firing, run a dry patch/swab to remove the oil.

Or if you are more Oc-- use the GM top cleaner and the dry patches.

dang this gettin' forgetful---uh , what was i sayin