Well, given that my previous problem was essentially solved by this forum in roughly 3 hours, let me ask another question about a problem that I have had for quite a while.
I have a Tikka 695(?) in 300WM that I bought new. I mounted a scope with a (high) quick release scope mount (levers). While getting ready for Africa a few years ago I realised that the scope mount was moving after several rounds fired. Without a quick solution, I just replaced the mount with a fixed one and went hunting. I would however like to use the original mount (and scope) again. (The scope ring/combination was used by the NRA in one of their American Rifleman reviews).Interestingly enough I just bought a used Tikka in 338WM and am having the same problem with scope mount moving. These are not QD mounts. The issue seems to be the grooved receiver mounting system for Tikka's and, in my case anyway shows up with high recoil rifles. The rear scope mount moves forward and eventually winds up above the loading port. Any suggestions? Surely this cannot be unique to me?
Peter.

There are QR mounts and then there are other kinds. Talley? Warne? Leupold?

Is it moving inside the rings? Mount sliding along receiver grooves, ???

I have Talley's on a .416 and Warne's on .375 and 7mm without issues. (Brno/CZ)

Sorry for the miscommunication BNagel. The mount is moving along the receiver grooves. I assume that the rings must also be sliding along the scope a bit, otherwise the whole rig would wind up at the front of the grooves. The problem is that the grooves are not tapered. If they were tapered towards the front then that would be a natural abutting point. I assume that your Brno/CZ has a similar grooved receiver, but are they tapered? In any case I will research other manufacturers. The rings for the 338WM are Tikka rings which fit to the dovetail receiver without any intervening mounts.
Peter.

Peter Not sure which set of rings you have. There has to be some sort of a recoil lug to prevent the recoil of the rifle moving the rifle rearward (makes the rings look like they are moving forward). I have seen a couple different types. One has a large headed screw that screws into the rear of the front scope ring and buts up against the rear of the receiver ring. There is also another that has an L shaped hook in the front ring. The L shaped hook comes in contact with the rear of the receiver ring similar to the large headed screw and prevents the rings from moving. Which type do you have? and is the recoil lug butted up against the rear of the receiver ring?

Hmmm, I will have to take a look and get back to you. They are Tikka rings so they should have what you say, but I will check! I think I have seen what you say for the front ring, but it is the rear ring that I am having a problem with.
Thanks, Peter.

I use Warne rings on my Tikka. There should be a round protrusion that acts as a recoil key which will keep the rings from shifting. And yes, they are tapered. Good luck with your challenge.

Snowman, there is contact mechanism between the front ring and the receiver of the rifle that prevents the front rings from moving. However, as I mentioned, my problem is the rear rings, and there does not seem to be any mechanism to prevent that from moving forward into the loading port area which has no dovetail cut. On closer look, after your post, it does seem that the rear rings do not make as good contact with the dovetail as the front rings, so, the problem with this rifle may be solved by just getting Warne or Talley rings.
Peter.

Okay, Peter.

Maybe that's one reason why Brno's have a tab cut into the mounting platform -- to keep things in place. I know the rings are tight to the scope on mine. My f-i-l had a lefty Tikka [.338 WinMag] that he put a large scope on...

Mmmm BNagel, those are nice high rings. Is that a 50mm objective? What rings (make) are those?
Peter

Peter OK I think I hear you saying the front ring does not move but the rear ring is moving forward on you. For that to happen the ring must be sliding on the scope tube as well as the rings sliding on the grooved receiver.For that to happen you can't have the screws on the rings tight enough and the cross screw that tightens up the rings into the grooved receiver can't be tightened up properly.I would suggest checking the cross screws to see that they in fact tighten up enough to squeeze the base of the ring into the groove on the receiver. Are the threads on the cross screw too short to squeeze the base of the ring?? Measure this with a set of calipers.Also make sure those threads are clean and not burred.If the threads are too short you may have to find a metric die to cut that thread a little longer (one to one & a half threads should be lots).Are you using a torque spec when you tighten up the screws on your rings? or just guessing? Clean away any oil on the inside of the rings and the mating area on the scope tube. You may want to put a single drop of blue or green removable " Loc-tight" in the bottom of the ring before you set the scope in the bottom 1/2 of the ring and a drop on the top 1/2 of the ring. Make sure the cross screws are tight before you start tightening the ring screws. Tighten the ring screws to spec. Not sure what Tikka or Sako recommend but I believe some ring makers recommend about 25 in/lbs. If you do all this there is no reason your quick detachable rings shouldn't work.

Why not use the original Tikka rings?

I have the old tikka form the1970s and the rings do not move. The rifle is a tack driver. I have otehr friends who own various Tikkas including the T3 and all of them use the original Tikka rings and theya re all very stable and accurate.

The general opinion in NZ is that the Tikkas are the most accurate factory rifle around!

Thanks gentlemen. As I mentioned I had a good look at the scope mounts on the 338 WM. The front mount IS anchored so that it cannot move. However the rear mount (the one I am having a problem with) is not anchored and can move. The issue seems to be that the lowerpart of the "clamp" is not fitting into the groove as snugly as the same part on the front mount, and so that might be the reason for the movement. These mounts are not QD but are adjusted by a hex nut. I plan on fully removing scope and rear mount from the rifle and re installing.
The issue with the 300WM I suspect is that the QD mounts (set by a lever) are just not tight enough, plus they are high mounts so the leverage when fired is greater. But I will post pictures of that rifle later.
Nakihunter I totally agree with your accuracy statement about Tikkas. I own several and all are extremely accurate. The 338WM is odd however in that the barrel is "free floated" but sits quite separate from the stock (ie. much higher)! Odd!
Right now I have some food for thought and some figuring out to do! Thanks to all for your help.
Peter.

quote:

Originally posted by Peter:
Mmmm BNagel, those are nice high rings. Is that a 50mm objective? What rings (make) are those?
Peter

Bases and rings Tikka medium rings
Scope Burris Signature w/ Posi-lok 2.5x10x44

Ok here is some more information:
Picture of Tikka M65 in 300WM fitted with Sightron 3.5-10x50 scope. Please see if you can identify the rings. I suspect Warne, high, but note that the scope barely clears the barrel. I can see daylight between, but not much. Although you can't see it, there is a metal pin that pokes down below the front mount that abuts the front of the receiver and stops the mount from moving forward. Above the rifle is the scope (and QD mounts) that I used, and that gave rise to the problem (scope mounts moved).


This picture is a close up of the mounts currently on the rifle to help identify them. As I said I suspect Warne, but it does not say anywhere that I can see.


This is a close up of the mounts on the Hakko scope, 4-12x56. If I am correct in remembering, the scope will not fit on the high Warne(?) rings.
In my attempts to tighten the scope rings, I buggered the (flathead) screws, which are, of course, metric! Over the years I have made several attempts to get replacements without success. One possibility is to get someone to drill and tap the scope rings to the next size up and a more available set of screws. Anyone know who can do this?


The OD of the objective of the Sightron is 2.255, while the OD of the Hakko is 2.520.

Peter.

Yes it appears that the rings on the M-65 are Warne. Shouldn't be a problem getting the rings re-tapped to an availible thread.

I'm sure it's just the way the picture was taken, but it looks like the eyepiece of the scope in the QD rings is bent downward. Is the ocular straight?

It also appears the other set of rings are Warne.

I had the same problem with Tikka rings moving on a 300 win. 695. My gun was also drilled and tapped, so I put weaver basses and rings on the the gun. The problem was solved and I threw the Tikka rings away. I believe tikka uses the same bases as the Savage 110. Their rail system is poor in my estimation.

My Tikka rifles use Leupold two pc bases & Burris Signature rings...never an issue with scope/rings slipping under recoil....
Leo # 54447 base rear windage adj & turn in dovetail...

Gentlemen, thanks very much for the responses. I agree that they are almost certainly Warne rings on there now, and, they don't move! Probably because they are not QD!
Graybird, thanks for pointing that out! I had not noticed in the picture, but I did go back and check the scope. It is straight, so it must be just an optical illusion.
DIs, I tend to agree. Much as I would like the Tikka set up to work, it does not seem to with high recoling guns and QD mounts. I have a 695 in 30.06 and the Tikka rings work fine on it, but, again, they are not QD mounts.
It looks like I am stuck with the QD mounts that I have, if I want to use the Hakko 56mm scope on the Tikka, as I am not aware of any others that are high enough for that scope. Realistically I do not need QD mounts on a 300WM. They just seemed kind of cool at the time! The Hakko is a really nice scope though. I will check the M65 to see whether it is drilled and tapped. The T3 in 338WM is.
So, anyone know where I can get the QD mounts/rings drilled and tapped. Any machine shop or a gunsmith? My concern is that "any machine shop" will not know the standard (American) threads for scope rings.
Peter.

on my T3 7mag i put weaver bases( #61 ) and Weaver Grand Slam rings on it and have never had a problem.