I'd like to get a little more mileage out of 300WBY brass. Neck sizing only (instead of full length resizing) seems like it would really help but I've been warned the double radius shoulder is prone to buckling when neck sizing.

Is this a legitimate concern?

Are there other ways to increase case life for the 300WBY?

I exclusively neck sized for .300 Wby (and for other cartridges - including belted magnums) for quite a few years. I never had problems with shoulders buckling.

I eventually tired of hard chambering reloads, and resorted to "partial full length sizing" (use search function for instructions on how to set up your FL sizing dies for this). This gives me smoother chambering reloads, and attempts to maximize brass life by ensuring reloaded cases headspace on the shoulder.

If you find that your FL sizing die sizes fired cases excessively (e.g. case body - die dimensions differ as do chamber dimensions), there is also the option of having a custom die made to match the dimensions of your chamber. That will ensure minimal sizing, smooth chambering and max case life. Price: about $120 from Hornady.

- mike

The Lee neck sizing tools put very little pressure on the shoulder and should not cause any buckling.

1. No, it is not a concern.

2. I use a chamber case length guage sold by Sinclair. You prepare a sample brass and insert the Sinclair guage and chamber in your rifle. This tool gives you the exact length of your chamber and neck area. I then only trim off that dimension. I beleieve this step increases case life.

Big Guy I would like to offer a suggestion to you for your problem with your 300 Wby die. This works for any other calibre as well. Some people adjust their sizing die so the shell holder comes up tight against the the bottom of the die. Often this results in the shoulder being set back which creates some headspace and causes the case to stretch the next time it is fired. You do this two or three times and the case head separates just forward of the belt.I am going to assume you have your size die set so that a case (even one that was fired in another rifle) chambers smoothly. Now go to the electrical dept of your local hardware or building superstore and get a handful of 3/4 to 1/2 conduit reducing washers. Slide one of these washers onto the threads of your properly adjusted size die and you will now only neck size the next case you size. No die adjustments and when you want to FL size again just take the washer off.If you neck size cases like that your cases will last a long time . The next thing you will need to learn is how to anneal the necks every 5 firings. I have 300 wby cases with over 10 firings on them and they are just fine. Yours can to. Hope this helps

Sinclair sells a die washer kit that includes precision machined washers in various thicknesses. It's not very expensive and is very convenient. I have partial sized Weatherby brass for years and never had a problem with necks collapsing. I normally full length size, anneal, and trim after 5 loadings.

I sure am happy I posted this question! Some excellent suggestions here for sure.

I suspected the buckling issue was bogus. Though I still believe it's possible, I'm now convinced it must be realistically avoidable by accounts listed here.

Buliwyf, thank you for the Sinclair tool hint. I will definitely look into that. I've found that my 300wby cases stretch quite a bit and reducing that stretch has got to help.

Snowman, I never thought about offsetting the FL die to convert it to a neck sizer. Don't see why that wouldn't work. What is the thickness of the conduit washers? The annealing suggestion makes a lot of sense!

About 3 or 4 loadings is all I could get out of my 300 Weatherby brass. Thanks for the tips to improve this!

I have been "partially re-sizing" all of my rifle brass for well over 30 years with no problems whatsoever. This has amounted to thousands of cases including .22-250, .257 AI, 7mm RM, .30 Gibbs, .300 Wby, and .375 RUM.

My size dies are adjusted the normal way for full lenght sizing of new brass or range brass. Then I simply made a 7/8" ID x 0.030" thick washer, and place it under my size die when I re-size cases that have been fired in my rifles.

This results in cases that are re-sized 0.030" less than full sizing. You could make this washer any thickness for the amount partial sizing that you want.

quote:

I've found that my 300wby cases stretch quite a bit and reducing that stretch has got to help.

I load for a friends 300 Weatherby and we've never had an issue with undue stretching but then again I insisted in taking his rifle with me when I set up the F/L Die to his chamber & once-fired brass.

Partial or F/L sizing is the way to go. My personal opinion (remember, it's mine) is that Neck-Sizing for hunting ammuntion is a good way to experience a disappointment (sooner or later).

Gee, I wonder why I have such an experience to relate?

Gerry is really right on this one!!Range ammo is one thing, hunting another. Neck and partial sizing are the way to go in most situations. Another recommended method of partial resizing,(The Speer Method) is to back off the properly adjusted full lenght sizing die 1/8 turn. No hassels there.

I've been using the lee collet die and redding body die on my 300 wby and LOVE IT. I set the body die for about .001-.002 shoulder pushback. I sandedthe mandrel of the collet die to give me .003 grip. The body die does not seem to size as much as my Forster fl dies. (Which by the way did not seem to over work the brass either).
Now for the bad news. I still don't feel I can go over 5 loading with my brass till I see the dreaded separation above the belt. I do admit that I always play with near max hunting loads but I attribute the problem to the first stretching of the brass to match the chamber dimension. Most belted brass seems to come undersized and winds up stretching a good .010 or more to make it to chamber dimension. This seems to be enough to shorten it's overall life even though brass is closely sized.
I do not like brass that chambers with even the slightest hint of bolt tension as for me and my guns it seems to create horizontal flyers. Thus I live with my 5 loadings and toss my brass on most belted mags. I do use a stoney point (now hornady) headspace measuring tool to set up my dies. I also have redding competiton graduated shellholders and "skips shims" for playing with die set up on the press.