I recently bought a Rem 700 adl in 270 win. I had shot the gun some with iron sights. I had a trigger job done and added a Burris fullfield scope. I sighted it in and had good accuracy. Further shooting shows that the gun when sighted in warm is one thing and then when i shoot it cold it is about 5 in. high. The shots usually march down and too the right. by the 6th or 7th. shot i am 4 to 5 in. down and about 2 to 3 in. to the right of where i started. Can anyone suggest a cause? It is my first Rem. 700 and i do not know much about them.

Thanks

Try free-floating the barrel. My Rem-700 '06 was all over the paper after I free-floated it groups ran under 1" @ 100.

quote:

Originally posted by T/C Nut:
Try free-floating the barrel. My Rem-700 '06 was all over the paper after I free-floated it groups ran under 1" @ 100.

Agreed...take the bump out of the stock!

Thanks for the quick info. This gun has the synthetic stock and appears to be floated (dollar bill method)except for two small rcctangular posts out near the end of the forearm. Would it be as simple as taking those off? I have other suitable, probably better, guns but for some reason i want to use this one.

Thanks again

Arky, it's sure reasonable to want to hunt with your new rig, for whatever reason! It certainly might be as easy as taking out those two 'knots' I've seen it work with what I believe is the same rifle you have, a Rem with a synthetic stock and squarish contact points anyways. Night and day after they were taken out with a dremel tool and a grinding stone bit.

Getting rid of them is where I would start.

Good Luck--Don

quote:

Originally posted by Arky:
This gun has the synthetic stock and appears to be floated (dollar bill method)except for two small rcctangular posts out near the end of the forearm. Would it be as simple as taking those off?

It may not be as simple as removing those pressure points. Sometimes a stock has as lot of pressure on the barrel and after removing those 2 points then the rest of the stock contacts the barrel. With more work it is possible to still free float the barrel. Anyway, removing those 2 points is the way to start if you want to free float.

Generally speaking, pressure point guns such as yours are more consistant and can be more accurate on first-shot/cold-gun shots. Free floating barrels are more consistant overall. I prefer free floaters.

You can sight in pressure point guns if you give them the time to cool down completely between shots.

Well, you may have a problem that you cannot fix. Assuming that you purchased the rifle new, before you mess the rifle up and are still under warranty, call up Remington and be prepared to send the rifle back to them while you have a warranty.

The next assumption is that you purchased the rifle as used and do not have a warranty.

You may have the stock bearing on the barrel, as mentioned earlier, or the action may be bent/twisted in the stock. As previous posters have mentioned, try free floating the barrel. I would also recommend that you bed the action in the stock. This is easy to do, but takes at least four to six hours of work. If you have never bedded a rifle before do a web search I have no doubt there is a lot of advice and pictures. I have bedded at least thirty rifles. In my opinion about bedding, there is absolutely no need to cut aluminum pillars for a hunting rifle.

I have one rifle, a Swedish M1896 that I bedded, removed all binding on the barrel, and the thing still walks as the barrel heats up. I must conclude that in this case the barrel is at fault. Barrels can have residual stresses from the boring and rifling operations, and barrels used to be “straightened†at the factory. I have seen at the Springfield Armory museum a special machine where barrels were bent to get a straight bore. I believe this bending process gives residual stresses that cause some barrels to walk.

In the case of the M1896, I think sending the barrel to a cryogenic treatment http://www.nfa.ca/miscellaneous/cryogenic-treatment-of-rifle-barrels.html might take the stresses out, but the rifle is not worth the cost of a special heat treatment.

So, before you proceed down the path that might take you to a rebarreling of the rifle, determine if your problem is covered by warranty.

I'll vote for bedding as well (along w/ the free floated barrel). The fact is that no stock maker in the world can set the tollerances to the recoil lug and receiver ring like good epoxy bedding. The result is that there is uneven stresses on the actions and lug w/ every shot. Sometimes it's not a big thing, but it can be terrible.

Although the wood stock is probably better than the tupperware synthetics they use, I recently put pillars in the later and rebedded and free floated an XTR (?) SS 700 in 7 mag. It went from unable to keep a group on a piece of paper at 100 yds to 3 shots at 1.1" w/ 150 factory load nosler BT

Well, since the warrenty is probably void due to the trigget job i will try grinding out the two pegs next. The gun actually shot a couuple of 1 1/4" groups when i sighted it in. The trigger was horrible compared to a couple of my other guns so i got that done to improve it.
I will try to shoot it again soon and let everyone that had input how it worked.

Thanks again

Well, i did get it free floated. I almost ran out of time and daylight. I shot it 6 tiomes. The first shot was off because i had been shooting my daughters 22 and the trigger difference made me shoot too soon. The next two were 1/2in apart but this time the gun started out low and to the right. I made some scope adjustment and shot 3 times. I am still about 2 in low but all 3 were well within the 1in. square on my target. I hope to hunt tomorrow as it is the last day of modern gun season here. I will probably take my 243 or 45/70 though. I need a little more paper time before i am comfortable with this one.

Thanks again for all the help as it looks like I may have it fixed.