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| One of Us |
When shooting to determine accuracy of a load, not trying to simulate hunting scenario; how long do you wait between shots? And why? I realize a typical hunting rifle is different than a BR rifle, but don't many BR's fire many shots without much time between each shot? What makes their rifles not so prone to temp differences where I find many of my hunting rifles show some form of opening up, stringing, etc... with a warm barrel as opposed to a cool barrel for each shot?? | ||
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| One of Us |
I believe that bench rest shooters use rifles with heavier barrels for this reason. The thicker barrels are more resistant to heating up than the thinner barrel of a typical hunting rifle. | |||
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| One of Us |
When shooting for grouping I bring several rifles and a 22 pistol just to let things cool down after 3 or 4 shots in a row. | |||
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| One of Us |
I never shoot more than 5 without waiting for the barrel to cool. I don't wait between shots while shooting the current group though. I load up either 3 or 5 shells, shoot them for one group, then wait for the barrel to cool before shooting the next group. | |||
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One of Us |
I shoot slow-fire during the group. I don't want the cartridge sitting in the warming barrel any longer than it has to. I don't like to shoot more than three groups before setting the rifle aside to cool while I test another. That would depend on what rifles I was shooting, too. Two groups out of a .300 Mag is plenty, but five or six from my heavy-barrelled Zipper is not a problem. Have fun, Gene | |||
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| One of Us |
Maybe it's just me, but are any of you guys getting real, not internet bravado, 5 shot groups .75 and under? When shooting 5 consecutive shots? I have a large selection of rifles. Many have work done to them. I am well trained and can shoot. With exception of tactical rigs, my rifles will tend to open up without time to cool inbetween shots. Colder temps (for me I do not shoot when the temps are in the teens F and below) of course are quicker. But even my 300WSM tactical H tube shows differences....3 shots will be under .5 but the next 2 open it up to a .6 to .75. I've found if it's above 80% relative humidit and 90+ degrees...NY in August -- then I see stringing if I shoot 5 withing 7 minutes or so. BUT if temps are 25 to 40F I can shoot the same rifle, 10 shot .75 in 15 min if I do my part. WHY??????? And to add to it, if I take the same rifle, 1 shot fouled barrel. Shoot it one shot per range session (meaning shot on different days) I can get really tny groups a BR guy would  Talking same load thru and thru. Why the differences? Is it the properties of metal? Powder under different temps?? | |||
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One of Us |
 It may not be proper, whatever that is, but I seldom worry about shooting from a warm or hot barrel. Many of my rifles don't seem to care either. I'm sure my repeatability suffers some because of this, but I'm happy! Seldom do I shoot any large capacity rifles any more either.  rogerOld age is a high price to pay for maturity!!! Some never pay and some pay and never reap the reward. Wisdom comes with age! Sometimes age comes alone.. | |||
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| One of Us |
My tikka barrel in 270 win heats up after 3 shots. I shoot 3, let it cool for 5-10 minutes with the bolt open in shade, then shoot the last two for a 5 shot group. If I don't do this, my group opens from 1/4" to 1" My tikka heavy barrel 223 will shoot 10 shots into 1/4" before heating up too much. If you think your gun is a 1" gun, try letting it cool every 2-3 shots and see what happens. It might surprise you. | |||
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one of us |
My Rem. S/S 708 shoots the first 2 shots into the same hole, if I dont let it cool for the 3rd it goes 3/4" off to the right, if I let it cool for 2 mins in warmer weather, itll put the 3rd shot in the same hole, David Tubb advised me that my Remington barrel might benefit from some cryogenic treatment, my varmint rifles dont get much barrel cooling, but I do let them cool after each 5 shot group. | |||
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| One of Us |
If a rifle opens groups or changes point of impact as the barrel warms I think it has problems (usually bedding). I shoot at a relaxed pace when testing for accuracy but not slow enough to keep the barrel from getting hot. If correct bedding, bore cleaning, or other simple accuracy measures don't correct the problem; I get rid of the rifle. | |||
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| one of us |
I beg to differ, what does bedding have to do with a hot barrel, my 708 is equipped with an HS Precision stock, it always throws that 3rd shot if I dont let it cool after the 2nd shot, thats not a bedding issue, its a hot barrel. | |||
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| One of Us |
If a rifle throws it's third shot it has a bad barrel, not a hot barrel. A good barrel will easily hold it's accuracy for 10 shots. A barrel that was crooked and straightened will start to revert to it's original shape after as few as 2 shots. velocity is like a new car, always losing value. BC is like diamonds, holding value forever. | |||
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| One of Us |
I'd also call that into question. I would certainly say my bedding jobs could be questioned, but most of mine were done by a more than competent smith with many years experience. | |||
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| One of Us |
Really? Could you elaborate on this? | |||
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| one of us |
OK, Ill let you grab that 708 barrel after 2 shots, you tell me if its hot, I can take a lot of heat and its hot to me. Oh, and it only throws the 3rd shot off 3/4", let it cool(2 mins) itll be in the same hole as the first 2. | |||
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| one of us |
If only I could post pics here Id show you how it shoots. | |||
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| One of Us |
I see no sense in arguing with someone whose mind is already set, believe what you want. velocity is like a new car, always losing value. BC is like diamonds, holding value forever. | |||
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| One of Us |
What I was trying to say is if a rifle has accuracy problems when it gets hot it is the barrel, bedding, or something other than the heat itself. | |||
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| one of us |
But, if there's a bedding or some other problem itll shoot bad when its cold, too, or not? When my 708 started out it had the remington injection molded stock, a heavy trigger, 2-7 Redfield Scope, I was using 760 powder(God forbid)and shooting nice round 1.5" groups(150NBTs), now it wears a H-S stock, leupold 3.5-10-40mm, 19oz factory trigger, Varget & RE15 powder is the norm now and 150NBTs & MKs and my groups were cut in half if I dont let the barrel cool(3/4" @100yds are the largest groups now). So now Im thinking which one of these factors improved the accuracy? | |||
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| One of Us |
He is right on this concept, but... The barrel isn't necessarily bad. it just isn't a match barrel. pretty much all regular manufacturers straighten their barrels, so your not going to get a really good(non warping) barrel unless you get it replaced or get lucky. Sometimes bedding will fix it, sometime not. it depends on how much the barrel warps when it heats up. even free floated, if the barrel warps at higher temps, it is still now pointing in a different dirrection. be patient when testing for accuracy, It pays off. | |||
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| One of Us |
without letting it cool between shots  Letting it cool between shots  | |||
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| One of Us |
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| One of Us |
A fellow with a LOT of shooting awards told me once that if you have a full floating barrel that is throwing flyers its Harmonics. As the barrel heats up it grows slightly changing its harmonics slightly. Me? I'm only interested in hunting accuracy. So every shot is a cold bore shot. The gun is in a full bag rest to take me out of it as much as possible. I find something else to do for a few min. between shots. Give me COFFEE and nobody gets hurt | |||
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