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remington 700 action feels rough
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a friend of mine has a remington 700 sps in 300wsm and he says the action feels rough. he has herd about having a sleeve put on to the bolt and having the bolt fluted to make it smoother. any idea on who would do a good job or is there other ideas to try first? thanks for the help
 
Posts: 106 | Location: spokane washington | Registered: 08 November 2007Reply With Quote
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I would look to see what the bolt was dragging on first...probably needs some stoneing in the raceways or in the recievers rear clearance area. Something is either gauled or burred up.


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Posts: 7361 | Location: South East Missouri | Registered: 23 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Lap the lugs and use jeweller's paste on the bolt and raceways..........


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Posts: 8808 | Location: Sydney, Australia. | Registered: 21 March 2007Reply With Quote
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How do you "lap the lugs" at home? Do you need special tools and special skills?


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Sell it and buy a Sako. jumping


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Posts: 3316 | Location: USA | Registered: 15 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Sid Post:
How do you "lap the lugs" at home? Do you need special tools and special skills?


A gumsmith should be able to have some lapping compound.. it doesn't cost that much and can be done at home.. all you need is a few rags and the ability to clean and lube it when done..

all it is, is a gritty paste you put on your bolt and work it back and forth thru the action..

afterwards just wipe it down and re lube it..

a little sand papwer and steel wool can be used on the bolt first.. and see if that works the rough edges out...


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Posts: 9316 | Location: Between Confusion and Lunacy ( Portland OR & San Francisco CA) | Registered: 12 September 2007Reply With Quote
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Been down this road with my 700. After a new stock, new trigger, magazine alterations and lots of work on the bolt I have a decent rifle. think I'll just buy a better quality rifle next time. Smiler

Midway and Brownells both have lapping compound for sale by the way:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eprod...ct?saleitemid=351963

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/...ctdetail.aspx?p=1137


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Posts: 566 | Location: Ouray, CO | Registered: 17 November 2006Reply With Quote
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Be patient as it will lap itself smooth in a few strokes. Give it a couple years.
 
Posts: 908 | Location: Western Colorado | Registered: 21 June 2006Reply With Quote
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To lap lugs properly you need a descent amount of pressure on the bolt lugs. To do this correctly.....pull the hell (back pressure) on the bolt when working up and down with 320 compound then getting the grit out of the locks is the tough part.....flush flush flush with WD-40 (Take the stock of to do this job) Then repeat until you feel it is smooth.


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Posts: 7361 | Location: South East Missouri | Registered: 23 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by ted thorn:
To lap lugs properly you need a descent amount of pressure on the bolt lugs. To do this correctly.....pull the hell (back pressure) on the bolt when working up and down with 320 compound

Be aware that you are increasing the headspace when lapping lugs. You only want to go so far as to assure that both lugs are making contact. On an action with a plunger ejector like the Remington, the pressure of the ejector on a chambered empty case will suffice. The contact surfaces don't need to be equal in area. Check by marking the lugs' contact surfaces with a felt tip pen.

The roughness is probably elsewhere, not in the lug surfaces. Smooth the raceways with emery paper folded around a stick of wood or small file. The action's bore can be smoothed by inserting an emery paper strip in a sawed dowel and spinning it with an electric drill. You want to break any sharp edges in the action and on the bolt. If you can remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt, pass the emery paper over the exterior of the bolt and break machined edges. The slot for the cocking piece can be polished. This area should lubed with grease when reassembled.

You can probably find an article on these processes with a little searching. Or you can let a gunsmith handle it. Re-working the trigger won't hurt anything either.

Sleeving the action is done for converting it to benchrest use. It can be less expensive to just use a custom action.


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Posts: 1184 | Registered: 21 April 2007Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Winchester 69:
quote:
Originally posted by ted thorn:
To lap lugs properly you need a descent amount of pressure on the bolt lugs. To do this correctly.....pull the hell (back pressure) on the bolt when working up and down with 320 compound

Be aware that you are increasing the headspace when lapping lugs. You only want to go so far as to assure that both lugs are making contact. On an action with a plunger ejector like the Remington, the pressure of the ejector on a chambered empty case will suffice. The contact surfaces don't need to be equal in area. Check by marking the lugs' contact surfaces with a felt tip pen.

The roughness is probably elsewhere, not in the lug surfaces. Smooth the raceways with emery paper folded around a stick of wood or small file. The action's bore can be smoothed by inserting an emery paper strip in a sawed dowel and spinning it with an electric drill. You want to break any sharp edges in the action and on the bolt. If you can remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt, pass the emery paper over the exterior of the bolt and break machined edges. The slot for the cocking piece can be polished. This area should lubed with grease when reassembled.

You can probably find an article on these processes with a little searching. Or you can let a gunsmith handle it. Re-working the trigger won't hurt anything either.

Sleeving the action is done for converting it to benchrest use. It can be less expensive to just use a custom action.


Good advise thumb


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Posts: 7361 | Location: South East Missouri | Registered: 23 November 2005Reply With Quote
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As a rule the WSMs and the unlamented SAUMs don't feed as smoothly as cartridges with "traditional" form factors. Also the SPS is not a BDL; it may never be as smooth as the more finely finished versions. Before he starts whittlin on a new rifle I recommend he apply some light oil to the bolt from the cocking cam to the bolt lugs and do a thousand "bolt flicks" (who can't use more dryfire practice?). Finally, tell your buddy that bolt flutes need to be cut in a helical fashion as straight flutes may "ratchet" on the next cartridge in the magazine.
 
Posts: 1733 | Registered: 31 January 2006Reply With Quote
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