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I do not know anything about the pro's and cons of different front site post so I would like some help if you could please. I want to add Iron SItes to a Savage in 300 win Mag to hunt Elk and Moose in case of problems with scope. Thank you for your help. | ||
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one of us |
I voted for E but any good Ivory or gold bead of 3/32nds is fine and with the NECG you chose you have the option of any of them as they can change out pretty easy.....That big red one is pretty worthless as it covers too much animal at any range. The Gold faced post and a shallow V rear sight, when sighted in for the post to come level across the top of the V such as one would see a set of S&W pistol sights is very very fast and very accurate. It is a sighting method used by the old Texas rangers on their Winchesters for fast shooting in the South Texas brush during the Catrina-Garza Revolution that filtered over into Texas or when the Rangers filtered over into Mexico..I really like this set up on a Dangerous Game rifle. It is as fast as a receiver sight and just as accurate. Not a very well known practice, but my Texas Ranger Granddads guns are so set up that way and I adopted that method to my hunting rifles..Give iit a try, you will like it. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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One of Us |
I've started shooting with iron sights just under forty years ago and at distances from 100 yards to 1000 yards. Here's my input: A or C, but BEST is B with the coloured metal removed so that all that you have is the bare blacked metal or a FLAT BACKED bead sight. A lot actually depends on your REARSIGHT as to what front sight is best! With a wide shallow "V" with maybe or maybe not a small notch at the bottom then the "bead" as in A or C is best. But with a square notch rearsght then a plain partridge is by far the best. Like the sight picture on a 1970s sight S & W Model 10 revolver. ALL round backed metal or ivory beads have one bad habit. They cause you to shoot away from any light source. That is to say if the sun is overhead you'll shoot low and if the sun is to the side, say the EAST, you will put your shot left. | |||
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One of Us |
IMO you will want a sight that is a high contrast to snow. I would choose a color that will jump out against such a background. When there is no snow I prefer white but that's just me. | |||
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One of Us |
Carry a 4x or 6x Weaver scope in your backpack sighted in for your rifle. And have both scopes quick release rings. "Evil is powerless if the good are unafraid" -- Ronald Reagan "Ignorance of The People gives strength to totalitarians." Want to make just about anything work better? Keep the government as far away from it as possible, then step back and behold the wonderment and goodness. | |||
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One of Us |
Get a receiver peep sight for your rifle and match it with B above, a flat post. You dont give up much at all to a scope under 200 yards with an aperture sight. | |||
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One of Us |
I chose F because of the colour and size (moose and elk aren't really that small). If you're not using a rear peep sight, it really doesn't matter. Aim for the exit hole | |||
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One of Us |
None of your offered choices. I'd get a flat topped square-backed post, with a slight angle of undercut to prevent the problems of light reflection and "shooting away from" the light. And I definitely would get and use (enough to know its ins and outs) a micrometer receiver sight with a large "ghost ring" type aperture. In camp I'd have a spare scope of the same make, power and reticule, with it's own QD rings, already sighted in before removing it from that rifle. I did that for years, and never ever needed either the receiver sight or the spare scope. I never needed them only because I had them. If they weren't there, I'd have needed them a dozen times or more. | |||
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One of Us |
AC, there you go making sense again. Aim for the exit hole | |||
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