I need some info on good barrel makers/gunsmiths for my Ruger #1. This is my first attempt at custom gunwork. What questions should I ask? This gun is mostly a hunter.

John Lewis, Carolina Precision Rifles CPRifles@aol.com unless he has changed email servers. Think he is in Jackson, S.C.

John is a fine No. 1 gunsmith and hunts with the No. 1 also.

In my opnion, the best, and I mean THE BEST riflesmith (metal specialist) for the Ruger Number One is Mark Penrod. He can take a Number One in any direction that you'd like it to go, from simple rebarrel and bedding jobs to complete, artful, innovative, full-house, best-quality metalsmithing that's worthy of the finest custom stockmaker. Mark has even developed and patented his own replacement trigger for the Number One.

His barrel/chambering work is incredibly precise, and he has some of the finest and most sophisticated equipment in the trade. He's a riflesmith of great precision who's also a great artist, and he's very reasonably priced for what you're getting. I can't recommend him too highly.

Penrod Precision,
P.O. Box 307,
North Manchester, IN 46962
(260) 982-8385
(FAX) 982-1819

I agree with Allen Day. Mark has done my custom work for the last too many years and has always done an outstanding job.

FWIW, I called John Lewis a few months ago asking about the accuracy potential of a #1A in 7X57 and what he would charge to "work over" one.

Not sure if I remember all that he said, but a rebarrel with a brand name barrel, Moyer's trigger, bedding, maybe messing around with the ramp so it didn't bind the barrel and whatever else he said was needed would run about $700 total. Oh and BTW, he said that would almost surely get a half inch rifle if I was any good at the bench.

As stated, there are certainly many competent #1 gunsmiths out there, just wanted to chip in with this bit of cost info for John.

Thanks for the replies everyone.....My #1 is currently in 300WinMag. And I was thinking about staying with that caliber. Just wanted a better/fresher barrel, along with that Hicks accurizer bit. Ive just seen about Answer's version. They claim it to be a "better mouse trap". I was looking also at EABCO's Ruger #1 accuracy package deal. But I havent heard much on the quality of their barrels. It sounds like a good deal, but I would like to research it more. Their web site its www.eabco.com I also want to put on a Gentry quiet muzzle brake. Iam not really that recoil sensitive, but with that 300WM it can make testing reloads a long day on the shoulder. One thing I liked about EABCO is their scope mount on their barrel in that package, it makes sense with no contact on the reciever. Well if I left out any info,let me know. Thanks for the inputs!

Whiplash,



Sending a rifle to one of those top smiths is of course easy. If you have some time right now perhaps you could try some things first. I find it more fun do work the stuff out myself. One success builds on another.



The Hicks accurizer is a good idea if it's necessary. One can do some easy stuff first however that may be all that the rifle needs. I would help however if you would get back to us on how it does shoot and some details.



The first thing to do, after the usual load development scope swithing and barrel cleaning is to free float the forend. Just whittle a plastic faucet washer and open it's hole to accept the forend screw and fit it between the stock and the hangar. Just enough washer thickness is needed to get the forened away from the barrel.



The next step, if needed, is to press a piece of plastic between the barrel and the hangar. A section of 1" water supply tubing is perfect for this. If this works it can be left in there or a Hicks accurizer used for a permanent fixture. The hangar can be drilled and tapped as well and a screw and lock nut installed.



Next check your mount height. Mine were low and that punished my cheek. Ruger will exchange rings free so do that. The butt plate on a #1 is just a rubber pad. It's not really a recoil pad. Get a Decelerator put on. And take off the pad and check that the stock screw is tight.



There are some sites with #1 suggestions. I will try to find them after posting.



If your trigger is not very good then that's an area that's difficult for the DIYS to handle. A smith familar with such installations seems best. Just paying some smith to learn how to install some other trigger may not have a happy ending. Here is a site about the trigger. Some say the Kepplinger trigger is better. The info here may illustrate why the most important task is picking the right smith. www.realguns.com/archives/063.htm



Start easy and don't over react.

Savage99, yes I currently have a hard rubber washer in bettween the hanger and barrel to help get the barrel off the hanger and dampen vibrations. Also have another rubber washer in bettween the forend and hanger(around the forend mount screw). It has seemed to help, so the I think the Hicks part could be a more permenant help. That was an interesting article on the Moyers trigger. I only live 40 miles from Moyers shop, so worse case I will at least pay a visit. Before my deployment I was lucky enough to shoot my friends new CZ Varmint in .223, it had a single set trigger(real similar in looks to the Kepplinger). Anyway, I fell in love with that trigger. So I might spring for the extra $$$ for a Kepplinger trigger.........thanks again.

I have to base my choice on my own personal results from the new barrels. My last two barrels have come
from Hart in Nescopeck, Pa. (same barrels as RW Hart in Lafayette, N.Y.). These people are still probably
the best barrel makers in the U.S. Most of their customers are benchrest shooters who are buying their
barrels for match shooting. You can tell them what you'll be using the rifle for and go with their choice or
make your own choice and you'll get what you order. Some things you'll need to know are the barrel
length you prefer and it's diameter. This will determine the weight you have to lug around. You'll need to
tell them how long you want the chamber to be. I like rather short chambers that conform to SAAMI
specifications, not these ungodly long chambers the manufacturers are turning out now that won't allow
you to even reach the lands. You'll also need to know your desired chamber diameter. Benchrest shooters
usually want tight chambers and neck turn their cases. The average shooter seems to have little desire to
turn case necks. Wally Hart will go over these things with you so you get what you want. Check them
out at www.rwhart.com Best wishes.

Cal - Montreal