Some where I was reading about reloading shotshells for a 44 mag and they were talking about using gas checks for the wad and the cap. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with that and if it worked. Another thing I was wondering was how you would get the gas checks in the case with out them being sized

Jeff....Some years ago I did some experimentation with pistol shot loads because I was having a rat problem and was concerned about holes in walls and possible richochets.After quite a bit of horsing around with different variables and testing the patterns on cardboard,my results were far from satisfactory.In a variety of pistols,the patterns were pretty lousy with lots of blank spaces within the patterns,and yes,I tried very small shot too.Ironically,I suppose,the best results I got came from 22 rimfire shot loads.Someone else may have gotten good results with different techniques but this is the only feedback I can offer.Good luck.

Patterns will be very poor, adequate for snakes and rats/mice at very close range, like 5 yards and under, and you will need to find some very small shot to make it work. Ballistics Products has 10s, 11s, and 12s, I would use the 12s, which, I believe, is what is in .22 rat shot.

Problem is, you don't have much shot, it is going down a rifled bore, and you have to have a fairly heavy shotcup(not sure if they are available any longer) or overshot wad to hold the shot inside the cartridge which--being in front of the shot--helps screw up what little pattern you have left.

Thanks for the info. I killed a rattle snake with the load today, and found that the pattern was pretty spead out but it was good enough to hit the snake at 10ft.

I have never reloaded shotshells for pistols,but I have used the factory loaded shells.In my experience the patterns are usally better out of short barreled guns instesd of long barrelled guns.I have killed many rats,snakes and other vermin with shot shells.

Get some Speer shot capsules and some #12 or #11 (hard if you can find it) shot. Larger shot will not work as well. If you have a .44 Mag, use the magnum case, not the .44 special case like CCI does (same goes for .357). The shot capsules will come with some reloading suggestions. Try different charges, even minute changes can make a big difference. Then pattern them on paper until you get a consistent pattern. Typically, higher velocity makes for a very poor pattern.

I've used the Speer shot capsules for years in .38/357. Don't know why DaveC advises using only .357 cases as the .38's have more than enough room for powder and have worked well for me. Have done away with a lot of snakes, and even varmints holed up in the garage as large as a possum using .38/ 9's. The .44 capsules should be even more effective, as should the .45's, which I understand are now available.

I agree with DaveC, however: Don't push the velocity. About 1000 FPS is plenty, and if you can get your hands on smaller than number 9 shot, use it.

The reason I recommend using full size brass for all loads is that when shooting the special cases, when you switch to mag cases, there may be a residue ring in the chamber that will not let a magnum case chamber correctly.

As I understand things it is the rifling that destroys patterns in pistol shot shells, causing it spin open, because the rifling does to the shot what it would do to a bullet � spin it. This centrifugal force to the shot charge rapidly opens up the pattern.
Years ago T/C offered the �hotshot� (barrels and ammo - available in 44Mag and 357 Mag), but due to some law in the states, concerning sawn off shotguns, the barrels had to be rifled. T/C got around this by offering a screw on choke tube about 2 inches long with �straight rifling�, this served to both stop the rotation of the shot capsule and to put cuts in the plastic capsule, to promote opening outside of the barrel. By all accounts this hotshot (in 44) was good enough to take clays and even Pheasant, out to 30 yards or so. The late Bob Melik was rather found of them and did some good shooting with them � bad news is T/C dropped them many years ago. The shells held a much larger charge of shot than anything available today (they were comparable to a .410 shot shell � � an ounce I think), and the capsules were also available as a reloading component, it�s a real pity these shells are no longer available.
I have a 14� T/C barrel in 44Mag, and have also pondered this question of shot shells. I am sure that patterns would improve if some way could be found to push the shot up the barrel in a capsule that was a few thou smaller than BORE diameter and not GROOVE diameter, this should stop the rotational effect of the rifling, or at least reduce it. Obturation of the capsule into the grooves might be a problem, and how to get the case to grip this capsule is another question � a home-made neck sizing die?
The capsules could be made, by simply rolling some stiff plastic sheet into cylinders, of the correct outside diameter and about 2� long. A metal block with the correct size hole (below bore diameter) drilled or reamed in it would provide consistency in diameter of the rolled capsule. But how to grip it in the case??
Bush baby

I experimented with shot cups that are available at the stores (Speer was one of those that I tried) with less than wonderful results.
I had inconsistant groups, and cups that never opened at all. This left me to find a better way. I DO NOT recommend this to the novice as it could be dangerous to shooter and weapon alike.
I took the coated paper backing from those red-orange dots that I use on targets and trimmed them into strips that are as wide as the length of the case from the mouth to the forward side of the rim. I then roll the paper into tubes that are two layers thick and then fold the top over to form a cup. To hold the cup in shape I use one complete wrap of masking tape, folding it at the top as well. I load the cup with enough #9 shot to just fill it. Weight the ENTIRE projectile and a paper disc that is made by cutting typing paper with a slightly belled case. Load a charge of fast burning powder that is a LIGHT starting load for this weight of bullet and place the paper disc into a belled case over the powder snugly. Then place the case down on the inverted shot cup (with shot in place) and seat by finger pressure. Crimp the case to hold the cup in place but just beyond straight. Test your pattern at ten feet and reduce the powder charge until the pattern is 10 inches at that range. The velocity should be about 900 to 1000 FPS. I have had excellent results and never experienced any problems but I do know that just a small change in powder can cause extreme pressures and if you try for more velocity you will get problems with pattern size and pressures.

PaulS

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stay safe and live long!

Thanks for the info it was very informative and helpful.

I do not plan on shooting the shot loads very often, but do any of you think that if they were shot a lot they would cause harm to the barrel.

They will cause no harm what so ever. The only thing is that your cleaning routine might change a little bit to ensure that any plastic residue is removed. It just takes a little more time and effort.