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wana know if you try to use fast powders in rifle chamberd handguns or do you use powder that are know to be accurate for the case being loaded.and is ther a way to tell how efficent a load is,like checking veloctiy to see if it starts to go down hill with higher powder charge. thanks jason | ||
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In my long-BFRs (.450 Marlin, .50 Alaskan, & .500 Martin), I use IMR 3031 and 4198....essentially the same powders that I shoot in their rifle counterparts. You'll definitely loose velocity in revolver-length barrels, but not as much as you might think. In all of the aforementioned rounds, I'm dropping 250-300 fps on average when going from a 18-20" tube down to a 10". Lee Martin www.singleactions.com | |||
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BigBore, I too shoot a 10" BFR and found great accuracy with 3031 with a cast bullet. But velocity was down and the powder fouling was very bad. Unburned powder would pour out of the gun. Might be OK with a condom bullet though. 4198 works great with a Hornady 300 gr. bullet but not so good with cast. I found that SR4759 is just perfect with my cast bullets. I use a pinch of dacron over the powder. | |||
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There was an article by JD Jones awhile back that covered the choice of powders for his TC barrels. He said that the powders that produced the highest velocties in the long barrels also produced the highest velocties in the pistol barrels. | |||
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Lar45, I had several 10" TC's and had a lot of trouble with slow powders. Worst part was while shooting a silhouette match, I would do good until the barrel heated up. Then velocity would climb steadily and I would hit lower and lower. (chronograph showed the increase) Changing to a faster powder would cure it. My friend with his 14" barrel did not have this trouble. I also had the problem using 4227 in my .44 mag. By the time I reached the last bank of rams I would be 16 clicks higher on my sight and still hit 50 yds. short. Primers would get flatter and flatter. I switched to 296 and won the state shoot. I wonder if the cylinder gap in a revolver makes the slow powder burn funny. I do know there is a difference between the cast and jacketed bullets. I can use a slower powder with a jacketed bullet. It also makes a difference in the pressure that a cartridge works at. The higher pressure loads can use a much slower powder. By the time this pressure is reached in the BFR 45-70, it is overloaded. The 450 would do good with 3031. Personally, I will stay with a safe load in mine because no animal in this country will stand up to it anyway. | |||
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Lar45, Forgot to mention that I used 4227 in the 357 super mag with great results. But this powder was a no-go item in the .44. | |||
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I'm thinking that I'll use WC820 in everything from 454 on down. I haven't shot my 357 max's in awhile. I loaded 296 in them but I'd bet that WC820 would work pretty well also. I may have to try some WC680 in the 357 Herret though. I wish I could find a surplus powder that works well in the 45-70 BFR, at BFR pressures, maybe some WC844? I may have to order some and get another 3 jugs of 820. Did I mention that I really like WC820? | |||
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Lar45 I had about 4 pounds left of a jug of WC820 left when the company I was ordering powder from sent a jug of 820 (in addition to the jug I had ordered)in error rather than what I had ordered. With that much WC820 it has been my answer when reloading whenever possible. I use it in the Hornet thru the 45-70 and it seems to perform ok in some, great in others! I even have one load someone gave me to shoot cast 135s in the 7mm TCU, kinda loud for 1450 fps. It will give me 1750 fps with 180 grain bulletfrom the 10" 357 Max barrel and something like 2100 with 150s. Might want follow the warning in Hornady's manual for H110 in this cartridge . . . it is the ONLY temperature sensitive loading I have ever had. My max load for the 180 (below the book value for H110) is on the edge in hot weather. The extraction is not sticky, but I am a coward about the edge of the envelope and tend to stop BEFORE the max load in any case (let me tell you about double load of AA#5 in a Super Blackhawk). Ruger will not reassemble the parts you send them into a new gun. A friend did find and give me the topstrap a couple of years later. I leave it setting on the reloading bench! YOU CAN BET MY PROGRESSIVE HAS A POWDER CHECK DIE NOW! ! LouisB Try using Accurate Arms reloading information with the WC680 (if your lot checks out to be about comparable to AA1680)in the 357 Herrett. NOTE their loading uses a large PISTOL primer. | |||
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I use the same powder in my pistol in the same cal as my rifles seams to work. Crow Mag | |||
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TCLouis, wow, that must have been some load in that Ruger. My friend shot one in his Blackhawk .41 mag. without powder. Stuck the bullet in the bore and shot another behind it. The cylinder swelled up and bent the topstrap up and bent the pin down in a kink. There were no cracks in the steel. This is one strong gun and it takes a lot to blow it to pieces. Then my other friend was working up loads in his .45 Vaquero with 296 and the 335 gr. LBT. He was told to start at 19 grs. and work up until he had pressure signs. (WARNING, PLEASE DON'T TRY THIS) He quit at 30 grs. without sticky cases or flat primers. I TURNED WHITE WHEN HE TOLD ME THIS. I would NOT try over 23 grs. with this bullet and this has to be approached carefully. In fact 21.5 of 296 is extremely accurate. Recoil is very stout and it drops deer like lightning. | |||
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