After getting taller rings from Ruger so that the Burris 2x7 scope would clear the iron sights.I went to the range, with reloads 240 gr jsn Rem bullets and 20 gr H110. After sighting in, was shooting 3 in groups at 50 yards and 7 in at 100 from bench rest. Trigger is very smooth and light.
Did have a bit of trouble with the cylinder pin coming out.Called Ruger and they are sending me new parts to try. Kudos to Ruger they have been very helpful and responsive with customer service.
Look forward to taking it out to the field.

Drftnsand,
I have to check my cylinder pin after each reload.I don't know what Ruger is sending you,but if it works let me know. I here that the custom pins with the setscrew work good. Fuzz

I have the same problem with my blackhawk. Do you have any more specifics on the custom pins?

I hate to appear the idiot but what do you mean by the cylinder pins? Is that a SA revolver part is it something to be checked on the SRH. Slim

I told them what was happening, and they said they would send me a new cyclinder pin and I ask for a new latch because they had made some dents in it.It seems the spring could be a bit stronger to me.Will let you know how it works out.

Not to worry Slim, it is a SA part. It is the pin that hold the cylinder on. You folks might want to look at Belt Mountain for you pins. There supposed to be better than stock.

Drftnsand,

That load looks a little light to me, might want to bump it up to 23.0 grains of H110.

Hodgdon warning states that you should not reduce H110 loads more than three percent, and max is 24.0. I used to load 21.5 grains for 240 gr JHPs, but bumped it to 23.0 after reading this warning (See http://www.hodgdon.com ). Even that is a little more than 3 percent reduction.

Regards, Bill

[ 09-26-2002, 16:37: Message edited by: Bill M ]

I have a Belt MT. Cylinder pin in my SBHH and there was so much difference in the pins that the frame had to be reamed out in order to make the Belt Mt. pin fit, it really tightened up the cylinder fit.

Okay, how about this. I had two new Rugers go down within a week of each other.

A couple of days ago I was getting ready to go on a New Mex bear hunt in the rugged Mimbres Mountains and took my RBH out for a shooting session. After banging away six times...horrors.
The entire ejection rod assembly flew off high into the air. When I retrieved it, it appeared the soldering on the stud sheared off, letting go of the rod and tube assembly. Man, I was disappointed. I never had this problem with any Colts or Italian clones. My load was not loaded up to the gills like lots of the boys tend to do, but equivalent to a factory round. Its very accrurate though. Now that is two Rugers down. The other one, a new BH forty five Vaquero had to go into the shop to have the barrel set back as the factory set the cylinder gap at over .028." What a frustrating bummer.

[ 10-01-2002, 02:09: Message edited by: Naconah ]

Just put a Hogue Monogrip on my SBH uuugly but improves grip ten fold.Highly recomend and maybe the look will grow on me eventually.

Bill M is correct that H110/W296 cannot be reduced too much as it can be dangerous due to the erratic behavior when there is too much air space in the case. It is preferable to have it slightly compressed. For a “mid-range” type load, it would be better to use 2400 or Blue Dot but DO NOT use these faster burning powders too much or it will blow up on you. Common sense and experience and some reliable reloading data would help here.

Naconah,
I think that you were just having a bad luck with your Rugers. The flying ejector assembly problem is known in the sixgun community due to a weak screw so this would happen to any stock single action sixgun. The solution would be to install a heat-treated screw or better yet to machine a shoulder or stop. As for your other cylinder-barrel gap problem, I am not surprised to hear it as I have also heard about it before. I hope that you will have a better luck next time. Have fun guys.

[ 10-15-2002, 05:54: Message edited by: Mingo ]

Thanks Mingo,
I am keeping the Ruger SBH with its custom 6" brl. aged Micarta Ivory grips and custom muzzle crown and 11 degree brl. chamfer. on the barrel throat. That gun shoots like a dream, about 1" with my 20 grain H2400 load @ 1400 fps. It rapped me pretty good on the middle finger in recoil. But I solved that by carefully chamfering the sharp edge off of the Dragoon styled trigger guard and slightly reprofiling the radius of the flat side of the guard. Now it don't hurt "no mo'" and its comfortable to shoot. the previous owner knew what he was doing in these custom touches and had the front sight reprofiled to look like the Colt New Frontier model. It's amazing what a little thought and work with a dremel tool can do. The 'smith reports that the silver soldering on the ejector rod stud sheared through. He resoldered it. He said that approach to securing the ejector tube assembly apparently gave Ruger all kinds of problems. I guess they now use a heat treated screw as you mentioned. This is a great little gun and definitely will be around in my collection as a keeper.

Can you tell me more about the cylinder pin...I hear guys using the Bowen and Belt Mountain pin all the time, but I don't see any cylinder end shake in my SBH or other loose fitting.

I am dumping the Vaguero, don't like it. I doesn't shoot very well at all, and the reason appears to be oversized chamber throats...about point four fifty five instead of point four fifty two. So out it goes. It is kinda superfluous with the great shooting .44 SBH.

Thanks again.

Naconah

Naconah,

I have to apologize, as I did not seem to know what I was talking about by mixing up the ejector rod assembly and the cylinder pin. Well, the stock cylinder pin has a tendency to fly off too just like the ejector rod assembly.

There are different ways to strengthen the ejector rod assembly. You can machine a shoulder/stop just like a barrel band of a custom Ruger or install a couple of dowel pins inside the housing. Either way would require some machining and drilling. As for the cylinder pin, Bowen makes a custom pin that can be ground to fit your gun perfectly to tighten up the action. It also has a screw that locks into a drilled recess under the barrel. If you are happy with your Ruger then there is no need to do anything. Have fun.

Hey Nacona, if you want the Vaquero to shoot, just run .455" to .457" diameter slugs through those leeds --and ignore the bore if it's smaller, which it likely is. Works for me.
Paladin

Don't feel bad... I hunted all last season with a few wraps of electrical tape holding the ejector housing on my 500.

Your better of with the bigger throats... most are too small. It's to really hard (if at all) measure inside diameter accurately and correctly without the right tools. The calipers you use for reloading will get you close, but that's it.

The Belt mountain pins are slightly larger, which may or may not help your accuracy. Sometimes some slop is a good thing with mis-aligned cylinders. They also have a set screw to lock them in if you need it to. They have a few different style heads, so just dressing up the gun is enough reason for some. Cheap enough just to try.

[ 10-18-2002, 10:03: Message edited by: cas ]

Don't feel bad... I hunted all last season with a few wraps of electrical tape holding the ejector housing on my 500.

Your better of with the bigger throats... most are are too small. It's to really measure inside diameter (correctly) without the right tools.

The Belt mountain pins are slightly larger, which may or may not help your accuracy. Sometimes some slop is a good thing with mis-aligned cylinders. They also have a set screw to lock them in if you need it to. They have a few different style heads, so just dressing up the gun is enough reason for some. Cheap enough just to try.