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Re: New Handgun - Ruger 454 SRH opinons
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So if Ruger told you the gun was within specs -then what does that tell you? ITS THE SHOOTER!! Just admitt it you didn't want the Ruger to work for you so you'd have an excuse to get the FA's!! Like I said at first I didn't shoot my SRH well either but with alot of practice I found what the gun liked and learned how to shoot it accurately. I just love people that think every gun is supposed to be laser accurate out of the box!!
 
Posts: 115 | Location: Mountain Home ID | Registered: 09 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Quote "What lube are you using?" I use hard lube that I bought from the people that make C-H pressed and dies I have to heat with a heated base and my Star Bullet lubber mounted on. I haven’t used unheated lube in years I don’t like the mess. I may buy some hard cast lead bullets and try them. If they don’t work I will just shoot a lot of jacked bullets through the gun. I have some sweets I use fore cleaning my rifles but I never thought about using it in my pistol. Thanks for your help.

Swede44mag




Try LBT blue, his std formula is what I guess you could call a medium stiffness lube. Needs a touch of heat to flow through the star.

A properly sized wheelweight bullet, air cooled, is good to 1200 fps all the way down in a sixgun. For max loads I'd water quench and gas check them.

It's worth figuring out what it'll take to make lead work out of your Bull.
 
Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001Reply With Quote
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My SRH 454 was having a similar problem at the begining, especially with Magtech and Hornady factory ammo but after switching to my own handloaded ammo and taking the cylinder out completely to clean it, the problem went away immediately. It is a little hard to believe but if debris (unburned powder, etc) get into the cylinder shaft then it has a tendency to lock up and sometimes it locks up only in a certain chambers. I have seen this problem before in SRH, Raging Bull, and Dan Wesson, and most of the time by taking the cylinder assembly apart and clean it, the problem will disappear.
 
Posts: 1002 | Location: Midwest USA | Registered: 01 September 2001Reply With Quote
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Swede, I don't know what to tell you at this point because I also shoot a lot of PB WW boolits and have no leading. What lube are you using? I use Felix for everything and love it. I have also used the LBT lubes with no problems.
I add tin and antimony for my heavy hunting boolits but for plinking I use straight WW.
I would have said your throats might need polished, but then you said the end of the muzzle gets full of lead too. Makes me wonder if you are not getting a lot more velocity then you think. The only other thing would be a bore that is larger then the throats and gas is getting around the boolit. But why would the throats lead if the boolits fit them?
Then there is the case of some copper fouling in the bore from the condom bullets. ANY copper in the bore or throats will cause leading. NEVER shoot lead after copper until the bore and throats are cleaned to bare steel. I am sure full house loads in a .454 will leave copper behind.
One way to help is to shoot a lot of jacketed bullets to smooth the bore and throats. But to break it in means some work. Shoot one shot, then clean all the copper out, then shoot another from another chamber and clean again. Do this until you have at least two shots from each chamber, more is better. Then clean after six shots. Do this for as many cleanings as you can stand. Then clean ALL copper out and try the cast boolits again.
Use Sweet's 7.62 copper cleaner and any other cleaner like Hoppe's before and after the Sweet's. MAKE SURE YOU USE A MUZZLE PROTECTOR SO THE ROD DOES NOT TOUCH THE BORE. A good polishing with JB bore paste might also do the trick. Use a tight jag, not a slotted rod for all your cleaning.
I buy diaper flannel by the yard from Wally World and fold it so I can cut squares out of it and get a large pile of patches cheap.
To get the lead out, get some copper pot scrubbers and wrap some around an old bore brush to scrub the bore. Shooting some condom bullets will remove the rest. Now take out the copper!
Another way is to just shoot the heck out of it with jacketed bullets but make sure you remove all copper between shooting sessions. This will take much longer though because each bullet will be running over copper from the previous bullet. Hope this is some help.
 
Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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Quote "What lube are you using?" I use hard lube that I bought from the people that make C-H pressed and dies I have to heat with a heated base and my Star Bullet lubber mounted on. I haven�t used unheated lube in years I don�t like the mess. I may buy some hard cast lead bullets and try them. If they don�t work I will just shoot a lot of jacked bullets through the gun. I have some sweets I use fore cleaning my rifles but I never thought about using it in my pistol. Thanks for your help.

Swede44mag
 
Posts: 1608 | Location: Central, Kansas | Registered: 15 January 2003Reply With Quote
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Swede that lube is WAY too hard for revolvers. You must learn to live with a soft sticky lube like Felix. I just smear it in the grooves by hand. Your lube is doing nothing to coat the bore and is just staying in the boolit to the target. Your lube is for rifles that push the limits of lubes. In a short time you will love messing with gooey lubes, just keep a rag handy.
 
Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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This is goofy. I keep getting a message that the web site is not responding and it still posts. I have trouble moving around in the site because of this.
 
Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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