I have three single action Rugers that I shoot fairly often. Is there a quick and easy way to clean the crud out of the cylinder? I was thinking about soaking them in a jar of choke tube cleaner, or a C&S Dunk Kit. It's just very tedious to me to scrub cylinders until they are spotless.
You will never get any revolver cylinder spotless. Just clean them with a patch and then a brush and solvent. M-Pro 7 and a brush will remove a lot of the carbon but not all of it. The black you see will not hurt a thing, just forget it.
In the new MidwayUSA Master catalog there is an advertisement for Hoppes Elite cleaner. The picture shows a cylinder before and after. The cylinder looks like it has never been fired through. Take this with a grain of salt because it is, afterall, an advertisement
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then is not an act, but a habit"--Aristotle (384BC-322BC)
Posts: 749 | Location: Central Montana | Registered: 17 October 2005
I've never been able to get my revolver cylinders squeaky clean. I use a mixture of shooters choice/kroil/gm top engine cleaner and a brass tooth brush and 0000 steel wool to clean with. I've tought about applying something before I shoot them but I haven't tried anything yet. Some of the IPSC shooters spray their compensators on their guns with some kind of spray to stop build up in their comps.
Larry
Posts: 75 | Location: Ashdown, Ar | Registered: 13 December 2005
easy as cake.....buy a package of Birchwood lead remover cloth and cut it into 3/8 x 4" strips. wrap a strip around a brass brush and have at it. cleans cyl and barrels faster than anything else i've found.
The lead remover cloth works but I would not use it all the time. They say it is non-abrasive but I got black on it even with a clean gun. I rubbed it on a clean piece of plate steel and it turned black. I can only figure that it is steel being rubbed off. Might make a good lapping material!
Thanks bfr, Bob Baker has told me not to use these on FA revolvers because use of this product will lead to rounding out the chamber mouths near the muzzle. .
If ignorance is bliss; there are some blissful sonofaguns around here. We know who you are, so no reason to point yourselves out.
Originally posted by LeeOtis: Try Ed's Red with a nylon bore brush for the inside and a toothbrush for the outside.
I carry a one gallon bucket of Ed's Red to the range. Most of my shooting is with model 25 S&W's, 45 Colt. I'll shoot one 'til it gets too warm, summer time, drop it muzzle down into the bucket and continue with one of the other S&W's. When there's three S&W's in the bucket I declare a break, swamp out the barrel and cyclinder and return to shooting. To get the black crude, that none of the commercial cleaners have any effect on, I use some WWII bore cleaner while the handgun is still warm. When I leave the range all of my S&W's are clean and oiled ready for the gun safe. Jim
"Whensoever the General Government assumes undelegated powers, its acts are unauthoritative, void, and of no force." --Thomas Jefferson
Posts: 6173 | Location: Richmond, Virginia | Registered: 17 September 2000
Use a bronze rifle brush one or two sizes up in a cordless drill with a little solvent. It cleans up a cylinder in a jiffy, it takes no more than two passes per chamber. Over time it puts a nice polish on the inside of each chamber. Don't worry it only polishes the high spots and will not wallow out the chambers. I have been using this method for 10 years with no adverse effects. a 375 rifle brush works great on a 357 a 45 rifle brush on a 41 a 475 rifle brush on a 44 You get the idea. I hope this saves you a ton of time, it has for me. I use it on my Freedom, Rugers and Smiths, it really makes cleaning the revolvers easy and fast. Joe
Posts: 208 | Location: Oregon | Registered: 25 May 2005
That sounds like a good idea. I use oversize brushes all the time. I just never worried about the black color left after cleaning. One shot and it is back. M-Pro 7 and a powered brush would make it shine. But is it worth the work?
The only thing I've found that will remove the carbon, etc. is Flitz. Just a very small dab on a cloth will wipe it away with just a few strokes. Try it you won't believe how well it works.
What I do is mix the four equal parts of about 2 ounces each. (or use a shot glass). Use a sealable glass container for storage. I would avoid plastic because the chemicals, over time, could deteriorate a plastic container. I have used other empty glass bore cleaner containers such as Hoppe's, Birchwood Casey, etc. This formula is easy to make and will produce a lot of Ed's Red.
Also, you may consider buying glass eye droppers to apply the mixture from the container to your cleaning patches. Wally World sells a set of two for about $2.00 in the pharmacy dept. Be sure and try to keep the end of the dropper in the down position to prolong the life of the rubber squeeze bulb.
Success is 99% determination.
Posts: 69 | Location: East TX | Registered: 16 November 2004
Flitz is great. Another tip is to use one of those brass suede brushes on the front of the cylinder and front of the frame. It really gets them clean. Would work good with Flitz.
I like to use RIG cleaner on my revolvers. It is rather like a gel and it will cling without running off or quickly evaporating. It leave it in the cylinder for about ten minutes then brush. Really works well around the forcing cone where a brush can't always get into sufficiently.
Posts: 733 | Location: N. Illinois | Registered: 21 July 2002