I did the range today with the SW 629 and SBH in .44 Mag. Worked with them at 25 yds which is about what I like for deer with handguns. For ammo I started off with local commercial "cowboy" reloads...240 grainers at about 1K fps. Then on to the hunting load, Hornady 240s at 1350. Everything went OK except a BIG difference in trigger pull between the two. I used the Smith first and it has a real nice trigger, so after being used to it, then tried squeezing the Ruger nice and slow like, but finally just had to go on and start pulling its trigger.

I get 4 inch groups that way but 1-2 inch groups at 25 with the Smith. So, I'm mulling over an action job. Any helpful thoughts or opinions?

You can do a poor mans trigger job.

Just pull the grip panels off and tweak the tirgger spring a little bit on each side. That will lighten the trigger pull.

Other than that you can get a Power Custom trigger and hammer kit and do a professional job with it. If your a little mechanically inclined, you can have it done in a few hours if you take your time.

I have done a ton of action jobs on Rugers. They need it. The casting is never polished correctly at the factory. Get a smith that knows how to stone handgun internals, change out the springs with a kit from Brownells, and you will see a world of difference.

My brother hits a 5 in. pie plate with his SBH Hunter at 100 yards every shot now. Before the action job, he was lucky to keep it in a 5 in. group at 50 yards

All of that creep needs removed and sufaces polished. I take mine to zero creep but leave a few thousandths on friends guns.
No spring kits are needed, the trigger spring can be re-bent to lighten it and I would never reduce the hammer spring for any reason, in fact I go to over power Wolfe hammer springs.
It takes me about 20 minutes to get an almost creep free pull down to 2# and my Ruger is 1-1/2# with no creep using a 24# hammer spring. But to go lighter then 2# needs a new, longer transfer bar or it can drop off the firing pin as the trigger will kick forward. Any time the trigger kicks forward, tighten the trigger spring or put in a new transfer bar. You can get hang fires or failures if you don't.
It is a fallacy that hammer springs need to be lightened and can harm accuracy in a big way if too light. My BFR has a 19 oz, creep free trigger with a 26# spring.
Fooling with mainsprings means fooling with primers because some will not go off. A primer of any kind needs a certain impact for accuracy.
You need to learn the mechanics and to drop in a spring kit is like taking your computerized car to the shade tree mechanic down at the trailer park.
You can change the trigger springs on most guns but leave the hammer springs alone.
I took a Freedom to 2# by making a new trigger spring, 15 minutes work. Freedom only charges around $100 for that!