Hi all,

I'm totally ignorant about these pistols, and am looking for some enlightenment on them.

What is the difference between the contender and the G2 model? Do they say G2 on the frame or anything?

I see they make rifle stocks for them, I thought I read once there was a legality issue with them? I guess not since there are a few aftermarket makers. If it is OK, does anyone make a 22-26 inch 22 hornet barrel for them?

Thanks, I'm looking for a different pistol for next deer season (44 mag, mebbe 41 mag as I've never had one and always wanted that cartridge) and if I could make it into a 22 hornet for the summertime it would be a nice combo. Also, I can probably trade for a Contender so I don't need an Encore or anything.


Thanks,

Mark

quote:

Originally posted by Mark:
Hi all, I'm totally ignorant about these pistols, and am looking for some enlightenment on them.

Greetings! I have been shooting Contenders and Encores for years, and I’ll try to be of some help.

quote:

Originally posted by Mark:
What is the difference between the contender and the G2 model? Do they say G2 on the frame or anything?

The original Contender has a few mechanical differences:
1) Once the hammer is dropped, either by firing or just by letting the hammer fall with your thumb after the trigger has been pulled, the action MUST be opened and closed again to reset the sear and re-cock the hammer. On the G2, you may drop the hammer and re-cock repeatedly without opening the action.
2) The trigger on the original Contender is screw-adjustable for both over travel AND sear engagement. The trigger on the G2, like the Encore, is only adjustable for over travel. One may purchase trigger kits and springs for the Encore and G2 from Mike Bellm which greatly improve the trigger [I have several Encores and a G2 set right at or under a pound with no hammer push off] but in stock form, the trigger is what it is.
3) The G2 has structural support “gussets†on either side of the frame in the areas that the original Contender traditionally experienced frame stretching from HOT wildcats, though TC maintains it is not a stronger frame than the original-probably to keep wildcatters from red-lining the G2 way beyond it’s intended usage.
4) The barrels interchange. The forends interchange between the original Contender and the G2, but the grips and buttstocks to NOT interchange.

quote:

Originally posted by Mark:
I see they make rifle stocks for them, I thought I read once there was a legality issue with them? I guess not since there are a few aftermarket makers. If it is OK, does anyone make a 22-26 inch 22 hornet barrel for them?

The simple rule to follow is: do NOT put a buttstock on a frame with a barrel that is less than legal carbine length, at least 16.25†long. The original Contender barrels all fit the G2, so if you cannot find a new 22Hornet, look for a used one as this was a factory offering for a long time. Ed’s Contenders is a wonderful place to look for used barrels, as are Ebay and the AR classifieds.

quote:

Originally posted by Mark:
Thanks, I'm looking for a different pistol for next deer season (44 mag, mebbe 41 mag as I've never had one and always wanted that cartridge) and if I could make it into a 22 hornet for the summertime it would be a nice combo. Also, I can probably trade for a Contender so I don't need an Encore or anything.

Let me know if you have any other questions. Enjoy

I'd just like to second Ed's t/c's as a good source of used barrels. You most often can get a used barrel and dies, and if it doesn't tickle your fancy, sell it for what you put into.

I think I pretty much broke even on the 1/2 dozen used barrels, two custom shorty sale specials and frame when I finally sold it all.

Contenders can be a bad, or good habit. One of these days I'll get back into them.

The 10" 357 maximum was my favorite. The 10" 44 mag has suprisingly nasty recoil, so be forewarned.

I'd stick with the contender, there is a much larger market of used barrels. Just be cautious when looking at used contender frames that some bozo didn't stretch the frame by running hot loads through it. A simply feeler gauge check between the breech face and the barrel will suffice. There shouldn't be more then a few thousands clearance, more then .010" and I'd pass.