Me neither, I just enjoy the discussions. I suppose anything can happen once in a while but I would not call it the norm.
I expanded the base of a 6.5x55 (1919 model.) so bad the primer was missing. Had to really smack the bolt to get it open. The gun sustained no damage. This was with a Hornady 129 gr bullet and a measured 46 gr's of 4831. I had shot thousands of these loads but that changed my mind in a hurry. I increased the charge and didn't have any more problems but accuracy was gone. I switched to Varget to get back accuracy and no more worries about SEE. This old gun could have very easily blown up.
If an old case hardened action can get away with no damage, I suppose the modern steel in the Freedom can survive once in a while.
I once was shooting a mix of factory .38's and .357 mag shells in a S&W. One of the .38's didn't clear the bore and a .357 behind it split the muzzle but the frame and cylinder were not damaged. S&W rebuilt it for me.

quote:

Originally posted by ManCannon:
OK... How do you know?!? And I'm betting the S&W X-Frame is stronger

I doubt very much if the X-frame is any stronger than a Ruger Super Blackhawk. Remember, the X-frame still has to have a cutout for the cylinder just like any other DA revolver. The SBH's "burst strength" is in the neighborhood of 80K, so just how "strong" is strong?

I KNOW the SBH is easier to pack around! (No wheels needed!)

FWIW,

Dennis

I vote .41 Magnum...they are accurate, strong and get the job done without beating you to death. One of my favorites is the 1999 Mountain Gun...



Bob

Not the best photos, but these are two of my favorites:

Lew Horton M29 .44 mag:



Ruger SRH in .480 Ruger:

Based on a grand total of one experience hunting pigs last weekend, a Ruger Redhawk is my choice of double action revolvers. The speed of reloading was nice. Even though I dumped the empty rounds into my hand (brass is expensive), the time spent unloading and loading a single action would have been torture. I am well aware there is technique of removing the empties and reloading as you go with single actions, I'm not that coordinated. Due to my failure to shoot well on a running pig, I had to reload after firing six rounds, after a 15 minutes bout of trailing and shooting. I have also found a double action cylinder allows flexibility with changing order of fire in the cylinder if something causes you to lower the hammer and then move the same cartridge back into firing position. I commonly load a "soft" as the first round and then "solids" in the following chambers. Alternatively, I load a shot shell in the first chamber while walking in the woods or working in the yard. I typically won't shoot a snake in the woods, using a walking stick to shoo them out of the way. I figure my yard is off limits to poisonous snakes but the woods are theirs. A dog, vehicle, property can be damaged by a bouncing bullet, not so much so by a shot shell. I have found cocking the hammer for a single action first shot at game can be a problem if you are too close. I missed one buck because I cocked the hammer on my double action revolver and alerted the deer. I haven't done extensive testing but feel the double action mode is quieter up close.