If I'm going to carry, it is either pocket or thunderwear. I've got the 360PD for pocket carry, and the Kahr PM 9 for Thunderwear, or the Detonics Combatmaster.

I also have a mouse gun, but it's not stainless, and, I get concerned about moisture, and blued steel.

I often consider the Kahr PM40, but, that would mean another caliber.

What I'd really like is a Kahr PM45, but last time I looked, it wasn't on the DOJ list.

As for the LW commander, I'm not mad about the alloy frames on it, or the Officers Model. Once you get through
the outside coating, it tends to wear a bit more then I would like.
I had an ultra carry II from Kimber, and had it setup, retimed, for .45 Super. However, the first gunsmith
cut into the feed ramp, and, it later required a steel insert. I like to carry the Detonics with the hammer down,
and, on a live round. It was drop tested by Kali, so I'm unlikely to abuse it more then that. Also, it eludes me
why you would put a giant beavertail on a CCW 1911. I don't think Colt does on the Officer's model, IIRC.

I've got a neat holster,Kramers' Thomas Perfectionist, that, in another state, would make a great setup for CCW, with a large bore revolver.
The gun sits high and tight against your side, is comfortable when sitting or driving, and, gives me 5 shots of .475 Linebaugh in a pinch, or,
480 Ruger.

Problem right now is cutting the barrel and custom grips, and an action job on an FA 83 might well cost me the same as a new Ruger 45 Colt, or .44 Magnum.

I carrya fullsized 1991 in a Mitch Rosen inside the pants holster it is very comfartable and conceals extremely well with along shirt out side the pants. My prefered way.
The Mitch Rosen is the most comfortable that I have used and works very well.

Why would you want to carry have down and have to cockthe weapon if needed? Condition one "cocked and locked" is the way a 1911 was designed to be carried and works very well indeed

quote:

Originally posted by N E 450 No2:
GS

Any 45 ACP round over the 230gr at 830fps, or a 185 at 950fps is just icing on the cake.

I think the 3 best guns you can carry if you do not want anybody to know you are carrying are a 5 shot S&W revolver, or a Colt LW Commander or Officers Model.

The "little" semiautos have too many reliability issues for me.

Although there were times I did carry guns as small as a Browning 25ACP, FA 22LR, and even the Hi Standard 22 Mag Derringer...

I had a Browning 380 [1910 model I think it was called] that was a good shooter, but I could carry a LW Commander nearly as stealthy.

I sympathise with your CHL situation...

What we need is a National Concealed Carry Law...

The CCW laws in California or a joke, most every state has enacted shall issue and there rates have fallen much more than the never issue states.

As for carry guns, a pop gun is better than no gun, but a 9mm or 40 is pretty concealable these days, especially with a good holster. Those that live in colder states could conceal a 629 6" underneath their jacket. Although a fan of 1911's, and have my fair share, they are not my favorite for deep concealment. To many levers to snag, glocks have been spit simple to draw, conceal and shoot, tend to be safer if dropped (except some of the first generation 21s.) I have been too many stories in the news of people shooting themselves while on the can, haven't figured out why, but I am guessing poor fitting holster and a cocked and locked 1911 style pistol.

quote:

I have been too many stories in the news of people shooting themselves while on the can, haven't figured out why, but I am guessing poor fitting holster and a cocked and locked 1911 style pistol.

AA cocked and locked 1911 would rather difficult to accidently shoot ne self while on the can. The thumb safety would have to be deactivated as well as the grip safety depressed and the trigger pulled. A Glock would be much easier to have an AD with

I've carried an cocked and locked 1911 for close to 40 years. I agree the 1911 takes abit of training to be totaly familar with butif one is willing they soon become secound nature and are a well proven combat pistol IMHO

The grip Safety and thumb safety only prevent trigger operation. The cocked and locked 1911 has sufficient energy to fire if the weapon is dropped and the sear is overridden by the hammer. Only series 80 or similar guns with a firing pin block would be of help if the gun is dropped. Non series 80 guns are especially prone to discharge when dropped on the muzzle.

A properly operating glock has a striker block that only moves when the trigger is moved rearward. The striker is not under enough tension or has sufficient mass to trigger the primer when at its rest state. The most unsafe thing to do with a loaded glock is to have your finger or any other object in the trigger guard when holstering your pistol.

Personal preference is not to drop any firearm, any firearm can fire if dropped. The glock is probably one of the least likely, as are its clones.

As an MP in the Army, before the final phase-out to M9, I can attest to the policy of condition 3 in the 1911. I could also tell you horror stories of leaving your 870 loaded in the rack as well.

Sereis 70 1911's do of course exist but have not been produced for quite sometime.

The problem with the Glock is not in dropping them but in the fact that anything that gets in the trigger guard can fire the weapon.

A Lafayette police officer had a Glock in his glove box that fired when a pencil got in the triger guard and shot him in the leg when he was involved in a collision

True on the trigger with the glock. The only time you should have condition one is when in a holster. The most common affliction is Glock leg because folks can't keep their finger out of the trigger guard. Oddly enough, the discharges are usually at end of shift, not when re-holstering on scene. Seems complacency kills.

As for series 70 pistols, the most common ones were Kimbers made prior to '96 or '98 when they changed over to the II models. The II models block the firing pin and release the firing pin when the grip safety is engaged.

John

The Detonics was designed to be carried hammer down, loaded round. They figured it was more concealable, and, they are right.
They also did not include a grip safety.

Years ago, when I carried my Mark VI at our business all the time, I sometimes carried it Cocked and locked, in a shoulder holster. Couple times I remember pulling the gun to find the thumb safety had worked it's way off, and, I was about two-three pounds from an AD.

With the hammer down, it's pretty safe, and, the top of the slide is even dished out, so when you cock the gun, it's easier to get the hammer with your thumb. Much as a Glock is nice, no sharp edges, or protrusions, so is the
Detonics. I even bought, and sold one to my boss the Mark VII, that had no sites, and was really smoothed over. Should have kept them, but, moving to Hawaii, I figured, heck, I can always buy another one..Same thing I said about the Mac 10's I sold.

I also have a High Noon for the Custom Kimber II, setup for 45 Super. I have always wondered if it would be wise to load around 460 Rowland type loads, with 45 Super brass, and, since the gun is retimed, it might well take them.

I REALLY like 230's at 1100 fps. I'm used to that level of recoil, feels good, and brings back fond memories of hours on the police range.

GS

quote:

Originally posted by N E 450 No2:

A cheaper simpler solution, [and this is from a 1911 Freek] is to get a 4" S&W 44 Mag, and a Pocket full of Speed Loaders...

Correct. I love 1911's, but you have to load the Rowland to the hairy edge to equal what you can do with nothing special 44 mag load. And nowadays you can get a S&W329pd which will be 29oz loaded. And that is a nice rig to carry around all day.

I considered doing a Rowland, and someday I might, but I won't consider it a replacement for a 4" barrel 44 mag. I can do 250gr@1200fps from a 4" 44mag. I'm not sure I can get the Rowland there, and that assumes I find a bullet profile that will work in a 1911.

Another one of the nice things about the 44 Mag S&W revolver is that in snake country, you can carry 2 Speer shotshells "up first", and four "regular" loads.

If you do not want to shoot the snake loads first it is very easy on the "draw' to cock the revolver three times, putting a "regular" load under the hammer.

Or, if necessary just "cranking on the trigger" till the job is done...

With the semi/auto it is not quite that easy, and not a one hand operation...