I traded for this pistol back in the winter. I had plans to hunt with it and from what I've read am convinced that it would do the job. However, my plans have changed and I'm considering putting this on the market. I thought that I'd let you guys look at it and see if I could get some opinions on value. I saw one sell on Gunbroker in the 650$ range about a month ago. The grips were a bit rough and the cylinder wear a bit more pronounced. I tried to show a good pic of the topstrap at the forcing cone. Looks to be lightly worn. I'm really not sure of the history of this revolver. It doesn't appear to have been abused or hotrodded.
The worst thing I ever did was to sell the one I had. Super accurate. The slot in the frame is supposed to only go so far and quit but it caused Ruger to end production. An insert would have cured it. It is the only caliber I ever had that loved 4227. It also likes 180 gr bullets and up as long as they fit.
bfrshooter, I can see where a hardened insert would have cured that problem.
I haven't shot for accuracy. I loaded about 30 brass with a midway load of powder and shot some 158's out of it. With that barrel it just rolls up nice in the hand.
Guys that steel insert that Smith & Wesson uses in some of their guns to protect the top strap doesn't work so hot. I have worn through two of them and have to send the whole gun back to Mass. to get them changed out. Each time I call to get return authorization the person on the phone always tells me they have never seen that before. These guns are used but not abused.
Blake
Posts: 132 | Location: Las Vegas, Nevada | Registered: 22 April 2006
I think if it was that material, stellite I think it's called, it would work. Then it could be dovetailed in and held by a screw from the top so it could be changed at home. Just dreaming I guess but there has to be a way without brazing the thing on. I loved the Ruger and the first time I shot it after working a load was at an IHMSA shoot at Youngstown OH to get sight settings. I shot a 39. The accuracy was out of this world. I fell for the DW thing and traded it for one. I got it during the bad times at DW and it was the biggest piece of crap I ever owned, first gun show and it was gone. Sorry, it was long ago and I do not remember the load but it was the only caliber that 4227 worked in for me.
Posted 27 April 2009 08:35 Hide Post bfrshooter, I can see where a hardened insert would have cured that problem.
I haven't shot for accuracy. I loaded about 30 brass with a midway load of powder and shot some 158's out of it. With that barrel it just rolls up nice in the hand.
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OOPS, don't let it "ROLL" in your hand. Let it raise your whole arm and it will punch one hole at 50 meters. Letting it roll will string shots up and down plus the gun can torque. Firm up your grip.
Originally posted by Blake 70: Guys that steel insert that Smith & Wesson uses in some of their guns to protect the top strap doesn't work so hot. I have worn through two of them and have to send the whole gun back to Mass. to get them changed out. Each time I call to get return authorization the person on the phone always tells me they have never seen that before. These guns are used but not abused.
Nahhh, I had a similar issue with the shield binding on the cylinder. S&W told me that the problem wasn't all that uncommon.
On the other hand, S&W was fantastic about sending out UPS tags and the like to get the Waranty work taken care of.
Regards,
Robert
****************************** H4350! It stays crunchy in milk longer!
I've been thinking about heavy hunting loads and hard-cast lead. Then I got to thinking about 35 cal rifle bullet and whether or not they would work well in the Max.
If the goal of hardcast is to punch through and make a good wound channel wouldn't a rifle bullet accomplish the same thing but allow you to operate at a higher velocity?
My suggetiom would be to try to 200 gain corelock from remington for the 35 remington. Its not too long and should expand a bit at max velocities. I think you could easily get $650 for that gun. I'd start higher-- like $750 myself.
Posts: 5727 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 02 April 2003
I own one in 7.5" barrel. I bought it new in 1983 I believe. Comparing mine to your strap pictures and cylinder marks I would think your gun was fired sub 100 rounds. I'm not an expert just my opinion. I haven't shot mine since '94 but as I recall it had excellent accuracy for a handgun. try 180 xtp's on 4227 seems to be the ticket.
Anything worth doing is worth doing right the first time.
Posts: 411 | Location: Southeastern Pa | Registered: 30 September 2002
Originally posted by littlecanoe: I've been thinking about heavy hunting loads and hard-cast lead. Then I got to thinking about 35 cal rifle bullet and whether or not they would work well in the Max.
If the goal of hardcast is to punch through and make a good wound channel wouldn't a rifle bullet accomplish the same thing but allow you to operate at a higher velocity?
I don't know that you'd get enough velocity out of the max to get decent expansion with rifle bullets in the max revolver, and you may have issues with the bullets being too long.
I had a 357 max contender and loaded a 200 gr hardcast. With max charges of AA1680 I was getting over 1900 fps. I don't think the 10" would have much problem reaching 1700 fps with the 200 cast. You can generally get higher velocities with cast bullets than with jacketed.
__________________________________________________ The AR series of rounds, ridding the world of 7mm rem mags, one gun at a time.
Posts: 7213 | Location: Alaska | Registered: 27 February 2001
I checked out the doubletap site that witworth linked in the 44mag thread.
Looks like pricing on their 200grain hardcast is decent.
I was just thinking that rifle bullets might push faster. Am I wrong in thinking that the value of hardcast is full penetration with minimal deformation? In my thinking I could duplicate this with jacketed because velocity would not be high enough to cause the rifle bullet to expand or cause minimal expansion.
