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one of us |
I went to a moving sale and brought a Magnum Research 460 S@W 10 inch barrel dies brass H110 powder some cast 300gr bullets. I done a lot of loading for other things never a 460. 460 owners tell me some tips and some pitfalls. thanks in advance. | ||
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Moderator |
There is nothing in the 9th edition Hornady manual that indicates loading this round differs from any other straight wall revolver cartridge. I'd say just take your time and work up to the level you desire. Recoil should be invigorating with those 300 grain bullets. If ignorance is bliss; there are some blissful sonofaguns around here. We know who you are, so no reason to point yourselves out. | |||
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One of Us |
This doesn't apply to relatively mild cast bullet loads but if you decide to go full powder jacketed: 1. The 460 S&W Magnum is very hard on scopes. If you decide to scope it, get a good scope. 2. With full power jacketed bullet loads, the bullets will move under recoil. I not only have to size new cases, which I'm loath to do, but also had to get a custom made Lee Factory Crimp Die to get an adequate crimp to keep the bullets in place. 3. If you go towards the pressure the 460 S&W was desigened for, you could get case head separations. Yea, even with a straight walled case. 4. Making sure the chambers are well polished should ease extraction with full power loads. 5. You can shoot 45 Colt and 454 Casull cartridges in it. If you do, and don't clean the chambers well afterwards, extraction of cases could become difficult. I've also heard that you can "ring" the chamber by using those cartridges a lot but I don't know if it's true. | |||
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Moderator |
Try using the belling stem from a 44 Mag die. This will bell the case mouth and provide extra neck tension to hold the bullets in place. If ignorance is bliss; there are some blissful sonofaguns around here. We know who you are, so no reason to point yourselves out. | |||
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one of us |
I kind of like the load he has loaded for them with H110 I will have to crony them to find out what they are doing. They do seem a bit more then my 1300fps 315gr 44 loads but not to bad. | |||
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One of Us |
I had a .460 in an X-frame gun and that thing was the BIGGEST pain in the ass to build reloads. The cases are so long that I often ended up not sizing them down far enough and they'd hang up in the cylinder, or I'd size too far down and mess up the case mouth. Once I got all that figured out, I was having hell's-own time trying to get enough crimp that my bullets weren't moving on me with recoil. I ended up with a Redding crimp die and that seemed to solve the issue, however again, if I even went the tiniest bit too far with the crimp, I'd mess up the case and be back to square one. Regarding optics, I had a Trijicon RMR adjustable LED mounted on it (the revolver was a "V" 5-inch barrel model) and I ran out of vertical elevation before I could get the thing sighted in. It was recoiling with such velocity that I believe the bullet was already quite far down the barrel while the gun was coming up. Ended up sending it down the road. | |||
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One of Us |
p dog shooter, I'm with MS Hitman on this, or maybe I'm just not smart enough to see that I' m having problems. I'm shooting a Smith X Frame, and load the same as I do for any of my revolvers. So far I've loaded, 300 XTP' s(max load), 395 hard cast(max load), 300 JSP (light load), and even experimenting with shot loads. Next will be 300 grn. cast. So far, so good!! memtb You should not use a rifle that will kill an animal when everything goes right; you should use one that will do the job when everything goes wrong." -Bob Hagel | |||
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