Those that own and shoot the Bisley hunter, how do you like it? When I go home to the States I am looking forward to getting one.

They are very nice. The recoil tends to be more straight back so follow up shots are a little quicker than a standard grip. In a high volume shooting session, like 1000 rounds, (yes, I have the right number of zeros),it can be a little more wearing on the wrist and elbow than the standard grip.
Iv'e shot maybe 20 -30 different blackhawk hunters and they were all accurate. The only thing you might want to do is get the trigger pull down to a nice crisp 3 pounds. These guns are very muzzle heavy and I find much lighter than that too difficult to shoot off-hand with out getting a premie (premature trigger pull) now and then.

Be very, very careful making the trigger too light on a Blackhawk! If the trigger kicks foreward after the sear breaks, the transfer bar can drop causing a failure to fire or a hangfire. Firing pin impact can also be reduced so accuracy goes out the window.
Never, under any circumstances, reduce the mainspring pressure.
I have reduced my trigger pull on the Blackhawk to 1-1/2# and my BFR to 1-1/4#.
I can do this because I have made my own transfer bars that cover more of the firing pin and never drop off of it until the trigger is released. They must be fit to perfection so that even a very fast trigger pull will fire the gun. The factory bars are too short.
The easiest way for a beginner to lighten the trigger is to lift one leg of the trigger spring off it's post.
If you know what you are doing, the sear surface on the hammer can be ground down and that and the trigger can be polished for a pull with no creep.
Use extreme care!

One thing I forgot to add; if you have large hands and large knuckles, do NOT buy the Bisley grip. The trigger guard will beat your knuckle. Buy the standard grip and put rubber grips on it that fill behind the trigger guard. They have the same recoil feel as the Bisley.

I have both the 44 Rem mag and 41 Rem mag versions and I love them. The scope is mounted low where it should be and is very quick to line up with the eyes. I have since converted the 41 mag to a 5 shot 410GNR which is the 454 Casull case necked down and am getting 1560 FPS with a 265 gr. hardcast. The 44 gets 210 gr. Golddots for Whitetails and both are very accurate and easy to shoot. The 41 mags were made in very limited numbers, 500 I think for a single distributor and will be hard to get in a few years.

Woody

I have a 41, had two 44s, and have a 45 colt in the Bisley Hunter. All were/are very good shooters, though the last is about to be returned to Ruger because of a timing issue. We'll see how they respond - I've been consistently disappointed with Ruger Service (both in rifles and in revolvers). The phrase "within factory tolerance" is practically part of their letterhead, which, of course, loosely translates to: we have low standards. Even when they acknowledge a problem, they seem incapable of fixing it correctly, even given multiple tries - finally had to take them to a reputed smith, at my own expense, for proper service.

Anyway, the poor-boy's trigger job (lifting off one of the spring arms) produces a pretty acceptable trigger (for free), at IMO...

to bfrshooter. I'm not sure I understand what you are talking about with regard to the transfer bar. I own several new models and have never had the problem you describe with regards to the transfer bar dropping down prematurely. Maybe I just pull the trigger a little bit differently than you do, but I've never had the bar drop down out of the way. I've also installed lighter Wolff hammer and trigger springs on my Rugers and have had no problem with ignition. Maybe I'm and exception. I've wanted to try a Bisley for a long time but have never had the chance. Oh well, one of these days I'll get the chance.

Jim, if you look at your transfer bar at full cock, you will see it only covers half the firing pin. If you make the trigger too light and squeeze the way you should, the trigger will kick foreward. This will drop the transfer bar. It will then be at the very lower edge of the pin or can even just nick it. At all the big IHMSA shoots, they test the triggers and if the trigger kicks foreward, they will not let you shoot the gun.
With a strong trigger spring, the finger pressure is high enough to overcome the trigger moving foreward. Everything works fine, but reduce the spring tension and trouble starts.
I make my transfer bars to cover the whole firing pin so when the trigger kicks, I still cover most of the pin.
Wolf springs are the best and the hammer spring is lighter but very fast which compensates for a weight reduction. The trigger springs are also strong enough so you will not feel the trigger kick. But you will not get the pull down to what I can.
If you unhook one half of the trigger spring and squeeze very carefully, you will feel what I am talking about. If your trigger has a lot of creep to overcome, you might not. I remove all creep. My revolvers have trigger pulls as good as a fine bench rest rifle, no creep, clean break but maybe not as light, there IS a limit!

bfrshooter: Interesting, I'll have to check mine. I've looked at mine at full cock before but have never paid attention to how much firing pin it covered.

Jim, if you really want to have fun, try making a transfer bar with hand tools (hacksaw and files.) out of tool steel, hardening and tempering it. If you know what it looks like, you will know what I mean.

bfrshooter That's a bit more than I want to get into at the moment. I did check my Rugers last night and you are right, at least about the large frame revolvers. My Single Six covers the firing pin completely. Also, it's bar is slightly different. My Security Six is covered almost completely. Apparently, the larger the frame, the less the coverage. I've never had the problem you describe though. I will think about making a new transfer bar. My biggest problem would be the heat treatment. I would probably take it to someone. Here's something you may not have tried. I installed a small set screw as a trigger stop on my SBH. I read about it in a gunzine somewhere and tried it. It works. I also had swapped out the grooved tigger from my SBH and smooth trigger from my .357 Blackhawk. That grooved trigger kept biting me. No problem in the .357.

Years ago I did put a setscrew in one revolver but find no need in my current guns. The trigger either holds it's position or moves foreward a few thousandths when it breaks. Mine would never touch a setscrew unless I was to take up speed shooting like CAS, then it would be an asset.
With a strong trigger spring, they do help limit the rearward movement and improve accuracy.

Thanks all. I have owned a few Blackhawks and a Super BH but was never quite satisfied with the grip. As well, while in Germany a couple years ago I bought a 2x Leupold scope and now need to put a pistol under it...must be my backwards planning kicking in.