I have recently purchased a Ruger Blackhawk 44 Special from Lipsey's. It shoot really well and I have shot it about 30 times.

My problem is that it doesn't seem to want to cycle smoothly or consistantly. After I shoot a round it doesn't let me pull the hammer back. It feels as though it is between cylinders. The timing might be off? Has anyone ever had this happen and how do I fix this?

Thanks in advance for any information,

ddj

Check the araa between the cylinder and barrel. Usually fouling builds up and prevents the cylinder from rotating. I would check that first. 44 special powders can be quite dirty.

John

Thanks,

Should I remove the cylinder and clean it? If so with what?

Thanks Again,

ddj

The lead removing cloth works well for me. Also, be sure to check under the ejector star for debris.

There is no ejector star on a single action. Sounds like some dirt has worked its way into the pawl area. Yes, remove the cylinder and take an toothbrush to the area. Insert just the cylinder base pin and cock the revolver. Inspect the end of the pawl to make sure it is not broken or damaged. Brush it good as well. Now, take the brush to the ratchet of the cylinder to make sure it is clean.

Hope this helps you.

The lead removal cloth referred to by aglifter will work well on a stainless gun but will remove the blueing on a blued gun.Clean each chamber, too, to ensure that each round is seating fully.

Just pack the thing up and send it off to Ruger --

They'll find out what's wrong and fix it for you -- no muss/ no fuss. And, the liklihood is that it won't cost you a thing beyond your shipping cost.

Ruger has 1st class customer service -- take advantage of it.

OldHandgunHunter, I hate to send it back if there is any easy fix. Do I have to worry about Ruger not covering the warranty if I just try and clean it up? It didn't look like the cases causing the trouble. It would happen occasionally with the gun empty.

ddj

If it has the new security lock in the grip frame, your problem may be the lock itself.

My NMBH has the lock and it was the cause of the symptoms you describe. Apparently a small piece of metal broke inside the housing and on occasion would prevent the hammer strut from moving down as the hammer was cocked.

The result was that the hammer would move about 1/4 of the way and would stop pretty solid. The symptom finaly stopped after I fiddled with the lock. I didn't realy know what had caused the problem until I pulled the grip frame off, and in the process found the broken piece inside the lock.

I'm betting that your problem is the same!

The stupid lawyer gun lock is most likely the problem, get rid of it.
The next problem can be the spring loaded pin in the end of the cylinder pin. It has to push the transfer bar back so it does not catch on the bottom of the firing pin.

Also check to make sure that the firing pin retracts all the way back into the frame when you let off of the trigger. I had both a Redhawk and a Bisley that had this problem and would darn near tie the gun up after every shot. The problem was that the firing pin hole was not reamed to spec at the factory.

quote:

Originally posted by bfrshooter:
The stupid lawyer gun lock is most likely the problem, get rid of it.
The next problem can be the spring loaded pin in the end of the cylinder pin. It has to push the transfer bar back so it does not catch on the bottom of the firing pin.

Had that one happen a few times. Took me a while to figure out what the cause was. Solution was to install a stronger base pin latch spring. This keeps the base pin from backing out under heavy recoil.