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I have another question on the SRH we have been talking about. How do you make the trigger crisp and light? I am used to a "jewel" rifle trigger that is 1#4oz and a factory reworked 1#15oz trigger on guns I shoot all the time(rifles). The trigger I had on my uncles SBH was crisp and light. I did an adjustment I read about on it where you take one side of the spring off under the grip and it helped it out. Is a crisp aprox 2.5# pull reasonable and attainable? Now the trigger is gritty feeling and heavier than about any I have felt. thanks 224TTH | ||
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The SRH is usually perfect from the factory. Gritty might be dirt and no lube. Parts can be polished with a ceramic stone and the trigger spring lightened. | |||
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"gritty" might not be a fair description. It is a consistant feel. It has some creep with two "catches" in that creep. I have done trigger work on every rifle that I have ever had (and a LOT of my buddies triggers), but never tried to work on a revolver trigger before. Ideas on how to approach working on this SRH trigger? thanks 224TTH | |||
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| One of Us |
Slicking up the friction surfaces and replacing the springs with lighter ones is what I have done to mine and I'm really pleased. If you're not comfortable with taking fine stones to the friction surfaces, simply putting lighter springs in the gun will help. I've used both the Wolff and Wilson Combat springs and they'r eboth fine. I had started with the lightest springs but had to work back up to the factory hammer spring to ignite CCI primers. It's smooth but not as light as it could be; I shoot them mostly SA so that's not a big issue to me. They break nicely. ______________________ "The heroes are dead but not all the dead are heroes." | |||
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I called DT and ask what primer they use. He said it was a CCI LPM. So will lighter springs work? What exact springs do I need to replace? How do I get to the friction surfaces to stone them? I am familiar with how to work on rifle triggers, but have NEVER tried on a pistol. I do not know where to start. thanks 224TTH | |||
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Based on these questions, I would highly recommend that you have a competent gunsmith take care of it for you. | |||
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I agree that based on your questions, you need to seek out a qualified gunsmith accustomed to handgun work. Those with the skill to do so know how to stone the engagement of the hammer to elimunate creep and make the other necessary changes. | |||
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The SRH does not have a trigger spring to unhook but it has a separate trigger spring that can be changed. Do not lighten the hammer spring. Just clean and lube the sear surfaces. All of Whit's guns, my guns and Bioman's guns have been converted to over power Wolff hammer springs. We use 26# springs on single actions, standard springs are 22 to 23#. The SRH is fine as is, just work with the trigger spring. Most are perfect from the factory. To lighten a hammer spring can take away accuracy in an instant. Primers need a certain impact for consistency---any primer in any gun. It is easy for me to make a single action to a 19 oz trigger with an over power hammer spring. Some Rugers and BFR's need a longer transfer bar to be safe that light. | |||
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<<All of Whit's guns, my guns and Bioman's guns have been converted to over power Wolff hammer springs. We use 26# springs on single actions, standard springs are 22 to 23#. The SRH is fine as is, just work with the trigger spring. Most are perfect from the factory.>> Does Wolff make packages like that or do we have to pick out single springs? It seems like they always lean toward lighter spring in the kits. sputster | |||
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You can buy single springs or a 3 pack, 24, 25 and 26#. The important thing is the Wolff springs don't take a set. Ruger springs get short with use. So even a 24# Wolff is better then a factory spring. I don't like the reduced spring kits just to make the trigger lighter. I would see if they have a separate trigger spring for the SRH. Now I don't know what the SRH hammer spring should weigh because I never changed one having good luck with it. I am sure it would set after time so see if Wolff lists a better one. I have had SBH factory springs 1/2" shorter and changed it every year for IHMSA because accuracy fell off. Another thing to think of is the Wolff springs are FASTER and that also helps. | |||
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I have a Wolff spring set in my older SRH in .44M. I did have to go with the medium spring set just above the lightest. But the pull weight was greatly improved. No ignition problems either. | |||
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The .44 Mag SRHs seem to come out of the factory with a nice trigger, but the two I bought new in .480 and .454 weren't so good stock. "Ignorance you can correct, you can't fix stupid." JWP If stupidity hurt, a lot of people would be walking around screaming. Semper Fidelis "Building Carpal Tunnel one round at a time" | |||
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I managed to kill a my first deer with the SRH or any pistol for that matter. It was a large doe about 40 yards away and quartering HARD away. She was below me and the bullet (320gr WFN doubletap) entered on the back edge of the backstrap on the right side and exited just left of the curley hair of the brisket. The doe whirled a quarter turn and dropped. What a blast! Thanks 224TTH | |||
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You did it !  Forget the springs ,just get the trigger polished [by a very skilled gunsmith !] My biggest deer was taken with my old M29 .Shooting one handed as my other hand was in a cast ! practice with that wheelgun and get more deer !  | |||
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Congratulations!!  "Ignorance you can correct, you can't fix stupid." JWP If stupidity hurt, a lot of people would be walking around screaming. Semper Fidelis "Building Carpal Tunnel one round at a time" | |||
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You stone/polish the creep out of the HAMMER, not the trigger! Stay off the trigger. | |||
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Ken , I've done many of those revolvers .I look at each as an individual gun and do what ever is necessary. | |||
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The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Hunting Handgun Hunting Trigger adjustment on SRH
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