I found the problem on my Ruger "Flattop" 44 special. The recoil is causing the cylinder pin to move. I can't pull the hammer back when pin goes forward.

Is there anyway to fix this or do I need to send it back to Ruger?

Thanks for the help,

ddj

Send it back to ruger, they'll fix it for free.

John

Had the same problem with my NMBH.

The problem is caused by a weak (base pin latch spring). The base pin is the "cylinder pin", the latch is the pin which holds it in place.

The base pin latch spring is very easy to replace. Midway has increased power springs in stock, package of 3 for 6.99.Base pin latch spring
You could probably have it swapped out in under a minute.

I'd advise you to do it your self. No shipping the revolver, no waiting on factory to change it out, and last but deffinitely not least no having to change it out yourself anyway when you find that the factory replaced it with a spring of equal strength to the one you already have. What you need is a stronger spring, not a replacement factory spring.

I agree, too easy to replace at home without shipping. You can even stretch the spring a bit and reinstall until the extra power springs come in.

One question I have guys, is when I look under barrel in the hole that the base pin goes, I have to rotate the base pin latch to see anything that would hold the pin.

I have a hard time seeing anything that would hold the base pin. I don't have any other Blackhawks to compare this to.

Thanks Again

ddj

Check out the parts diagram on the Ruger website. Black Hawk Exploded View Page 5

What you will see is that there is a grove in the full diameter of the base pin for the Latch pin (part # XR02700) to ride in. The latch pin nut (part # XR02800) moves into the grove and holds the base pin in place. As the latch pin is pushed to one side the nut moves out of the grove of the base pin, allowing the base pin to move forward. Now what typically happens is that the latch pin will move further and further to the side compressing the spring with successive shots until the nut moves out of the grove and the base pin then can move forward. The idea is to use a stronger spring so that even under heavy recoil, the latch pin will remain or return to the side, not allowing the nut to move out of the base pin grove.

Thanks that helps alot.

Is ther a special screw driver I would need to install a new spring in the base pin latch?

I just ordered the new springs from Midway.

ddj

quote:

Originally posted by trouthunterdj:


Is ther a special screw driver I would need to install a new spring in the base pin latch?

ddj

Sure is.

Whatever screw driver you can get to fit it.

It looked like there would have to be a notch out of the middle of the screwdriver to the the base pin latch.

Do you just have to turn out the two ends of the base pin latch? Are they threaded?

Thanks Again with the help,

ddj

Call Ruger, I had same problem, they sent parts free of charge with instructions on replacing them.

quote:

Originally posted by trouthunterdj:
It looked like there would have to be a notch out of the middle of the screwdriver to the the base pin latch.

Do you just have to turn out the two ends of the base pin latch? Are they threaded?

Thanks Again with the help,

ddj

Yes they are threaded. The pin screws into the nut, thats what's sticking out in the middle of the slot in the nut.

I was able to remove the nut with a couple of thin bladed flat screwdrivers, one screw driver in half of the slot in the nut and the other in the pin. I just held it very securely as to not let it slip out of the slot. You might want to try some vise grips with some lead or maybe some leather to pad the jaws on the nut side (the side that looks like it needs the "notch out of the middle of the screwdriver") and a screw driver in the pin. Once the nut is loose, remove it, the spring will be directy underneath it. Simple pop the spring out and put the new on in, screw the nut back on. Presto Chango, you're done. You don't even have to remove the pin from the grip frame.

Man! I sure do wish I had taken some pictures of each step when I did all the work on mine. Sure would make it alot easier for me to remember exactly how I did it. Had to sit here for a few minutes thinking on what I had done. Of course, it doesn't help that I don't have my revolver right here in front of me. It's back home in the safe waiting for some parts.

Midway has what you need: Wheeler Engineering Screwdriver Bit Ruger Single Action Cylinder Base Pin Latch



Or just use a dremel to make your own from a cheap screwdriver.

I missed the part about the pin moving out but feel good that I was right about the transfer bar not being pushed back to clear the firing pin.
I am glad you found the problem and it should not take much to fix it.
I have owned a Pile of Ruger's and never had a pin move out even with boolits and loads heavy enough to shear grip frame screws. (If they loosen.)
Two minutes with a Moto Tool and you will have a screwdriver bit to fit.

You had it correct about the transfer bar not being pushed back with the base pin moving forward.

Can any body tell me what is wrong with this picture?
I'm still waiting for a new stainless grip frame!

I always expect a few problems to slip by quality control.....

Just not anything that I buy!

ddj

quote:

Originally posted by trouthunterdj:
One question I have guys, is when I look under barrel in the hole that the base pin goes, I have to rotate the base pin latch to see anything that would hold the pin.

I have a hard time seeing anything that would hold the base pin. I don't have any other Blackhawks to compare this to.

Thanks Again

ddj

Its possable that the c'bore the base pin latch sits in isn't deep enough to engage the base pin. Pull the base pin and the cylinder and look down through the base pin hole, the latch should extend into the hole about half way across.

If less than that, the c'bore will need to be cut deeper. A heavier spring is a poor fix for a shallow c'bore.

There's no need to buy a special screw driver tip; got a dremel and a cut off wheel? Slot your own. To hold the revolver steady, clamp the barrel in a vice with a leather or rubber pad wrapped around the barrel. Lets you use both hands to control the screw drivers. Helps to remove the ejector housing. The screw is lok-tited in, so be sure to have the gun solid and lean into the screwdriver.

quote:

Originally posted by txhunter77:
Can any body tell me what is wrong with this picture?
I'm still waiting for a new stainless grip frame!

DAMN! Did you send that pic to Newport with a request for a new grip frame?

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty Marlin:
DAMN! Did you send that pic to Newport with a request for a new grip frame?

Well, seeing as I was treating a Blackhawk like a Super Blackhawk (ie pushing it to 44 mag levels), no I didn't.

Even if they gave me a new one, it would just happen again. The Cast Aluminum grip frame is almost the only difference between the BH and SBH. They put steel grip frames on the SBH for two reasons, and your looking at one of them! The other is to add weight to help tame recoil.

The replacement grip frame I'm getting is a SS SBH Hunter, which should help with the recoil and prevent the same thing happening again.

Good news is I got an e-mail this morning. The grip frame has shipped, will have it by Friday and will be shooting this weekend!

Will the same grips fit on the Hunter frame or will you be 'forced' to buy new grips?

quote:

Originally posted by kelbro:
Will the same grips fit on the Hunter frame or will you be 'forced' to buy new grips?

I'm using the Hogue monogrip for the BH, They are supposed to fit the SBH with the round trigger guard which is the Hunter model. Except that (at least I thought) the Hunter is slightly longer than the STD SBH grip frame. So We will see if I have to get another grip or not.