Any of you SRH shooters had the factroy mounts "eat" in to the cut away portion of the frame. I put a box of full house 44 mag loads through mine, pulled the scope (it was loose) and the mounts had badly indented the angled machined portion of the guns frame. I'm more than a little upset at the whole deal. Is this common and is there a fix for this?
Thanks for the help.

I seat the ring screws in a little at a time. I use blue lock tight on the threads too. I have never had a problem. Mark

Excuse my ignorance but what do you mean by "seating" the ring screws? Do you have an inch pounds figure you go by? Just curious.

Sometimes when tightening the Ruger rings, the moveable clamp side had a tendency to rotate. If it does that, then while it feels tight, under recoil the edge will rotate back causing the ring to losen. As you tighten the nut, alternatley tighten 1/2 turn, then losen 1/4 turn. If you put your finger on the clamp side head as you do this, you can feel the clamp go slightly deeper each time you losen it 1/4 turn and tighten the 1/2 turn. You may have to do this two or three times after the clamp makes first contact with the base. Also, make sure the ring is pushed forward on the barrel so the recoil stud is making firm contact with the recoil stud recess cut into the top of the base. Along with the Blue lock-tite this should solve your problem. The ring clamps always indent a little into the base but nothing that I would find objectionable, so I will bet that as you tightened the rings the clamp rotated and then after losening caused the excessive chewing on the base.

It has happened to me with one of my custom Super Redhawk. It hurts every time I see those deep cuts on the frame of my beautiful gun. I have trashed those Ruger rings and have been using Leupold rings made for the Ruger M77 and have had no problems since then. Those Ruger rings look nice but you cannot see the clamp when tightening the screw. Good luck. Cheers. Ming

I think that Big Bore has the right idea, I always tighten, back off a little (holding the screw as he suggests), tighten, loosen, tighten.... I also like to re-verify the torque after a few rounds, but if you use blue locktite, I'm not sure if this would be advisable (you might "break" the lock). I think that Locktite Red has almost the same "running torque" as "holding torque", so a little tightening after original installation shouldn't affect the locking ability as much. Take a look at the chart on the back of the package. It does sound to me like the base screws were not tight enough and that is what caused the damage.

Bill