What's the best way to do it? I have the little RCBS primer pocket brush hand tool, but that takes forever and is a real pain. There has to be a better way. ?????

Thanks

I use an itty bitty wire brush that fits my dremel tool. I run the tool on the lowest speed..the brush fits the primer pocket perfectly... Zip, Zip, you're done!!

Zeeriverrat1

I just use a straightened out paper clip ,
all you really need to do is remove the chunky build up to assure the primer can be seated to its maximum depth.
no need to get the pocket sniney

I've got a Sinclair primer pocket reamer that i use all the time to clean out and recut primer pockets with no problems to date. I've tried other promer pocket cleaners but none got all the crud out like this one did. I really like using it. i chuck it up in my drill and its one more step in brass prepping. Sinclair, K&M, HOlland, and others probably sell these types of devices. HOpe this helps you out.

When I have only 50 or so cases to do, I just use a brush by hand. If I have a bunch, I use a small motor on a board that I attach the RCBS brushes to. It really takes longer to get it out and plug it in to make it worthwhile most of the time.

I use the cheapy Lee primer pocket tool, one end large, the other for small primer pockets...the tool between your thumb and index finger, a second later, clean pockets.

hth

Just food for thought for someone who might want to try it. I have found that even the most stubborn burnt residue in the primer pockets will come out with a paper towel after soaking the case in alcohol. I let a few set in the alcohol for a few minutes and have over night. You would be surprised at all the residue that comes out from inside the case and the primer pocket comes real clean with a paper towel. The alcohol evaporates and the case is new clean. Just something to try.

quote:

Originally posted by Blob1:
Just food for thought for someone who might want to try it. I have found that even the most stubborn burnt residue in the primer pockets will come out with a paper towel after soaking the case in alcohol. I let a few set in the alcohol for a few minutes and have over night. You would be surprised at all the residue that comes out from inside the case and the primer pocket comes real clean with a paper towel. The alcohol evaporates and the case is new clean. Just something to try.

I'm with Blob1 on this one. I've tried every kind of primer pocket cleaner made it seems and the best I've found is soaking the deprimed cases in a mixture of 1/2 water and 1/2 white vinegar... give them about 10-minutes in there and the cases are cleaner and ALL of the primer pocket residue can then be wiped out with a q-tip.

Try it, and you'll get rid of those "brushes."

I have a RCBS case care machine, I like it the turning brushes do a great job on primer pockets and it is easier on the hands than the hand brushes. It also inside and outside chamfers.Well worth the money IMO.

Years ago I made the large and small primer pocket cleaners using cable and brass screw machine blanks for the Herters company.....I still have several dozens of each and I chuck them in a drill press and clean pockets easily.

I've also used a slotted screwdriver bit in a drill press.....as previously mentioned shiny isn't the goal.....remoiving the char is!

the lee pocket tool gets my vote. it"s quick, and it works!
good shooting

I use the EJS primer pocket uniforming tool. I went ahead and bought 2. One is used for larger primers and the other is for small. The tool has provisions for both but I turn one cutter around and made it the shaft so I can chuck it in a variable speed drill. Before cleaning pockets I just verify its depth of cut and start cleaning. It only takes a touch.

Just get the Lee primer pocket tool! I used to use a mechanics pick to clean them when I first started hand loading but since I got the Lee tool I wouldn't clean them any other way.

Steel Slinger, just unscrew your RCBS primer pocket cleaner out of the handle and chuck it up in a cordless drill (or any drill for that matter) and away you go.

Rojelio

Hey new_guy
Never thought of using vinegar and water. I have used a lee pocket cleaner and some other tools, but on some cases there is still some residue left. And some tools actually can scatch the primer pocket face. I just figured that if you wanted to clean the pocket out real good you needed to do it with out tools. (proably receive a bunch of posts about how someone has used one for 75 years with out hurting the first pocket) So I found a bit of soaking softens the burnt residur and out it comes with a q tip! And for those that will post how they never clean the pocket and it works great, hey what ever!

I use the RCBS brushes. I slide the empty case (.223s and .357s only) into the drill chuck mounted in my pencil sharpener base and spin the crud out in just a few turns. I can do over 250 an hour easily. I can chuck the Lee trimming tool into the chuck, trim to length and in/out chamfer about 150 an hour. If you think I cannot possibly do it this fast, I can because I made special tools to acheive this speed. I can chuck, trim to length, outside chamfer and chuck another .223 case in 24 seconds. I can chamfer and scrape a primer pocket in less than 20 seconds. When you load up 200-300 .223 in one sitting, you need to develop the tools and technique or reloading is no fun.

quote:

Originally posted by Blob1:
Hey new_guy
And for those that will post how they never clean the pocket and it works great, hey what ever!

Exactly. As with most things in life, it only takes a little extra effort to do it right the first time.

Give the vinegar a try, your brass will come out cleaner.

I used to be meticulous about cleanig out primer pockets. Then one day I completely forgot and loaded some ammo. Could not tell ANY difference between the cleaned primers. So I conducted anotehr test and another and there was NO difference between cleaned primer pockets and "dirty" ones. Hence, I no longer bother. jorge

Thanks for all the replies. Think I'll try the vinegar and water first since that is the cheaper route, and if that doesnt' make me happy, I'll go buy a dremel tool.

I use a little flat jewelers screwdriver. As a bonus, its round shaft slides through the primer hole nicely, so clearing any tumbling media that might be lodged there. It takes about 5 seconds per case, cords and batteries not required. I have an RCBS primer cleaning tool, and it really didn't work all that well, IMO.

A bench rest competitor that I know told me that cleaning primer pockets was a complete waste of time....Based on his many years experience I at least thought I would try it, instead of just taking info like I do from some guy tossing it out at the rifle range.....

Well I haven't cleaned a primer pocket in over 3 yrs now....Never noticed a darn bit of difference on ANY case regardless of how many times I had been reloaded.....

So that is one step I now leave out of case prep...Until I have a problem, then I will keep on status quo....

This guy has been into bench rest shooting for 30 plus years....so he has a little experience on the subject....

I am not advocating following this yourself, unless you desire too.. However I know several other people who have done so and like me also do a lot of shooting each year.....Same experiences as I am having....

cheers
seafire

I use the Sinclair primer pocket uniforming tool. Quick and easy.

I'll second the RCBS case prep tool. at first it looks like something made to sell to somebody, but it really is handy. cleaning primer pockeets, chamfuring etc. all are easy with it

The other thing about the RCBS tool is it is much easier on the hands, I'm 54 and my hands hurt doing that stuff some times with the tool no pain.

I have always used the primer pocket cleaning accessory for my Forster case trimmer. I replaced the crank handle with the power adapter and use a Snapon rechargeable battery powered screwdriver.

I tend to agree that constant, religious primer pocket cleaning is not needed for normal accuracy. When the batch of cases needs trimming, they get their primer pockets cleaned too. The Forster tool does both ends. And I like the idea of the case being supported during the process. The case can cock sideways when cleaning by hand and bevel the sides of the opening. Not so when chucked in the Forster lathe.