If I go to split my necks,...how much difference is there if I were to NOT have neck sized the cases first? If they were at least from the rifle I have (therefore fireformed), but not resized until AFTER being split and deburred,..will this still give me an accurate measurement for each of my rifles?

thanks

[ 07-18-2003, 02:20: Message edited by: JustC ]

I'm not sure if it would matter as far as accuracy of the measurement goes. What I would do is use that measurment as a starting point to be verified using a magic marker as looking for marks of the lands on the bullet.
If you are not quite sure how to do this there have been many post on this subject in the last couple of months, do a search on this topic and see what comes up

Good luck

simdow,..I went back to threads,...just to verify my set-up, and that was where I got the question about the sizing before hand. I figured that after the split,..I should still be able to size the case,..and re-use it many times over. I wanted to see if anyone had done it that way,..and found any detriment to that approach.

Thanks for the reply,..I was starting to wonder if I smelled or something

I think you'll find the case neck will just spring back to where it was if it is already split when sized, in a FL die or NK die either one. Sizing before hand forces the diameter of the neck to be reduced enough to grip the bullet perfectly after it's split, just enough, but not too much... if split down to the shoulder/body juncture.

The split neck method comes back from time to time and it will be back again. You have discovered its shortcomings already, I see. In theory you should be able to cut slits in the neck so it will act as a collett, the trouble being in finding just the right neck tension and maintaining it. Best to use an unsized case on the body.

A much more enlightened method is to use a Redding neck sizing die that uses the TiN coated sizing rings. Then neck turn just a few cases so that the necks are thin (0.009" or so) so that they only grip the bullet weakly, by comparison. Then buy a series of TiN rings and start sizing in steps so that the feel is just right and the system performs reasonably well. If you get it right, especially on a rifle that has been fired enough to smooth out the leade, the bullets will not stick too often in the lands.

For years, I have used this and some variations and consider the dimensions thus obtained to be "hard-to" on the lands. Frankly, bullets seated well that way generally shoot well, but it is not appropriate for a hunting riflt.

Hope that helps.

Geo,

I've used the split neck method long enough to realize the problem you correctly state too. It can however be fixed with a slight pinch of the neck "if" it's ever even needed tho. The sweet thing about the neck being split on a neck that's been "sized" is, the tension is more or less constant and doesn't jam the bullet too far into the lands and leave it there on extraction, AND it also offers perfect tension to keep the bullet in hard contact with the lands and not be pushed back by anything other than them. When extracted it pretty much must be deliberatly altered in length and isn't bothered by snugging up a comparetor on it etc. The bullet is easily pulled out slightly for a quick repeat check without use of something to grip it etc... It's consistant, ideal tension is the best part about the split neck method, aside from the fact it's faster than hell to use and is accurate as it gets too.

Good luck, either way.

I tried the split neck method on my 22-250 and consistently stuck the bullet in the barrel.Went back to my dowell and trial fit with smoked bullet.

Gents,...I used fired cases that were unsized. I split them,,,and then neck sized (if I had the die). On the ones I had no bushing neck die for, I just use a FL die,..and thus far,...on the calibers I have tried it on,....it has worked great.

Am I missing something? I get within .001" and most of the time,..right down to the exact .001" when I do it. I hope I am not witnessing something incorrectly?

My rifles are not tight necked,...but quite a few are cut by custom reamers with tighter than factory necks.

Thanks for the replys

I use the split-neck method, started it when I first started handloading because it was cheap, simple, quick,and I could do it my own self. All those things still apply today, and I feel I could afford one of those Stoney Point setups without too much pain. Anyway, I have settled on FL sizing before splitting the neck of my case for two reasons:
(1) I may on occasion need to use it for a gun other than the one the case was fired in...
(2) I feel you run the risk of leaving a burr in the split which may scratch your die. If you've already sized the case, no worries about your die.

Been using this method for years now, and am comfortable with it. It may be one of those things that you have to have a little faith in, stick with, so to speak. Kind of like me with shooting sticks, at first they were kind of awkward, now they're an addiction .

pullskinner,..I ran 220grit around my necks inside and out while being truned on my drill, so as to deburr the cases. I have a nice smooth finish inside and out

I size after every time I run the bullet in the case/bullet into the chamber,..so as to maintain the pressure,..and I seem to get right down to the .001" every time. I too, am sold on this way of doing it,....I just don't think A better way exists.

[ 08-18-2003, 16:29: Message edited by: JustC ]