I'm new to reloading and have a fairly basic question. I've developed the following load that shoots right at 1 MOA consistantly. I'd like to tighten this up a little. The load was developed in .5 grn increments. All the brass was once-fired, neck sized, trimmed, chamfered, and de-burred.

Win. brass
26 grs. WW748
Federal Small rifle primers
52 grn Speer TNT's
.015" off the lands

What should I mess with first, bullet seating depth or powder in .1 grn increments? Or, is there something else you would do first?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

STK, Yes, I'd try the Sierras and some Hornady VMAXs also, Benchmark is an excellent powder, too. I shoot all of the above plus some Rem. 50grPLs, they seem to be the most consistant of the other 2 "big" bullet makers, consistant as in around 1/2moa avg. some groups as low as in the 2s and 3s, I'm sure the Sierras will come around to equal the Rem. bullets, just haven't had a chance to test out some loads that won't crater the primers, first test with 25-26grs. Benchmark cratered, flattened, and gave me a sticky bolt, so it's, lets start over again. BTW, I'm using Win. primers, Jay

My system:
1) Chamfer the brass inside and out so pulled bullets show no scratches. Don't chamfer so much the mouth becomes a sharp cookie cutter.
2) Remove the expander ball and never use it. Throw away brass that has been expander balled.
3) De cap primers in a separate step.
4) 3/4 neck size the brass with full length sizing die and Imperial wax.
5) IMR4895 powder and look for loads with case just full to the base of the bullet.
6) Honady 55 gr. Vmax bullets for a 1 in 12" twist barrel.
7) Moly coated bullets and Lyman moly bore paste burnished into the barrel before shooting, and cleaned out with baking soda and water at the end of the day.
8) Seat the bullet with Forster Benchrest seating die, Forster Ultra seating die, Redding Competition seating die, or Wilson seating die.
9) Experiment with extreme seating depths.
10) Use a bench, benchrest, and rabbit eared rear bag.
11) Practice dry firing with a very high power scope on the rifle and see how much the cross hairs move on the target when the hammer drops. Change shooting habits to and/or trigger adjustment to reduce that movement.
12) Arrange the rifle and your body so that the reaction to the recoil is consistent.
13) Write all over the targets. Keep records while shooting. Load at the range. Keep the targets in a file on that rifle. Write up findings when you get home from the range. Go to the range often. Go to the range when the wind is not blowing - like during good weather or early in the morning.
14) Keep cleaning that barrel. Have a routine and schedule for cleaning out each fouling: powder, copper, and moly. Have one cleaning rod with a jag and one with a brush at the range. Buy some good cleaning rods, like Dewey.
15) Get targets with 6 bullseyes on an 8.5x11" piece of paper and shoot at it at 100 yards. Double bullseye targets for 200 yards. More difficult targets brings out better shooting.

--
A society that teaches evolution as fact will breed a generation of atheists that will destroy the society. It is Darwinian.

[ 10-16-2003, 05:21: Message edited by: Clark ]

thanks for the replies. I probably should have mentioned that this is my coyote rifle. Rem Model 7 stainless, 20" bbl 1 in 12 twist. I may be opening a can of worms, but what bullet has the best terminal performance and is still fur friendly at ranges up to 300 yrds? Terminal performance would be at least as important as shrinking my groups a little more. I'd like to stay in the 45 to 55 grn range. Please keep the info coming, I really appreciate it.

[ 10-16-2003, 07:01: Message edited by: SH00T TO K1LL ]

Sounds to me like you are on the right track. I'd make smaller adjustments in my powder charge...something like .3 of a grain at a time(3/10) as 1/2 grain changes of powder in a case the size of a .223, especially when one is near the top end, might be a bit much.

Good news is, there aren't many "bad" loads for the .223

try Hodgdon Benchmark with CCI BR-4 small rifle primer

I have to concur with the others. Move to the Blitzkings, V-Max or Nosler BTs and I'll bet your groups shrink. Although my 223 like IMR4895, 748 is still a good powder for that cartridge.

STK, I see you mentioned your shooting a model '7', you may or may not get the accuracy that some of us other guys are getting, believe were all shooting "varmint" type rifles(Gary's probably shooting an "AR") which is more condusive to getting "smaller" groups than the thinner barrel of the "7". How's the trigger on your "7"? A little on the heavy side, maybe? What power scope are you using? A more powerful scope would help in bringing the target closer to you and really dialing-in the rifle, though for "Yotes" 3-9x or 3.5-10x is a good scope power, I use a 6-24x on my VS,(praire dogs) and it brings my 1/4" dot that I'm shooting at in pretty close. If your going to be using the rifle for "Yotes" your accuracy is plenty good, but no reason you can't try to get it better Jay

[ 10-16-2003, 17:15: Message edited by: Jay Gorski ]

I can usually tighten groups with the 223,6x45 and 222 by trying H322 and sometimes with H335, but almost everytime with H322.....

To answer your question SPECIFICALLY: I'd try seating only a couple thousandths off and also try a full thirty thou off the lands. You're splitting the difference at 15. I also give another vote for trying Nosler BT's or Vmax's. I see a little less accuracy with 50gr. TNT's in my .223's. If you've got that model 7 at 1 MOA that's darn good. Are you talking five shot groups at 100 yards? How much time between your shots? Are you letting the barrel cool? I'd also try other primers, especially match primers. If it helps, it's a cheap improvement. You also didn't mention flash hole deburring or primer pocket uniforming. Those would be "frosting on the cake" steps after you get the most out of your load...Some folks swear by polishing the inside of the case neck as mentioned above. I pull a pinch of fine steel wool off and wind it around a worn bronze cleaning brush. Then I chuck it in an old variable speed drill I have fixed to a 2x6 with plumbers strapping. Then, with the drill running medium slow, I push the case neck over the steel wool blob. It polishes the inside of the neck and smooths the chamfer and edge too.

I also would ask about trigger and scope. Honestly, if you're using a 9x scope with std. crosshairs and a factory trigger pull, you're doing damn fine at 1 MOA and you'd see an improvement at the bench by adressing those two things. As also mentioned above, 1 MOA will work for coyotes as far as the cartridge can reasonably be shot.

[ 10-23-2003, 02:32: Message edited by: rogerinneb ]

I think I found a good load for ya STK, went to the range today and tried 24grs. Benchmark under 55VMAX, Win. primers and brass, oal 2.345", 700VS, except for flier 1&1/8" low,(slight head wind must've got that one) the other 4 shots went into a group that measured 5/16", 3 in the same hole, now you might not think that's not that great for shooting at 100yds., but this was at 200yds., 24.3grs. netted a group at 1&1/8", but no shots were touching, wish I had loaded more of the 24grs. up, but I'm pretty confident in the load that I'll load 25 up and verify them next year by doing a 25 shot agg. Jay