Are there any special steps to take when loading moly coated bullets? I purchased a large bunch of 338 Combined Technology bullets. Read some where many moons ago something about loading more powder to get the same velocity or something like that. I'm loading a 338 Imperial, any suggestions about the moly bullets and their handling?

I would use them in the same way you use uncoated bullets.IMO,you will get about the same velocities,if not identical but with a slightly lower pressure and an easier job of cleaning your bore.

I shot a lot of moly coated bullets, mainly in match rifles, but also several different hunting rifles; in my rifles, the velocity dropped a bit compared to uncoated bullets.

The main benefit of moly was easier cleaning. Main drawback (in some rifles) is that the barrel needs to be "conditioned" by shooting a number of rounds before POI stabilizes. Some rifles take more rounds to coat the barrel and stabilize than others. I was fortunate in that my two match rifles shot same POI w/clean/dry bore as they did after fouling shots but not the case w/most of my hunting rifles. I no longer use moly since I no longer shoot competition.

If you have a problem w/the moly coated bullets in your rifle(s), you can drop the bullets in a tumbler and run an hour or so to remove the moly. (You might want to try a few if your bullets are factory coated as they may have a different method of applying the moly. I have removed a lot of moly on bullets that I coated using the NECO process in the tumbler.)

Regards,
hm

quote:

the barrel needs to be "conditioned" by shooting a number of rounds before POI stabilizes. Some rifles take more rounds to coat the barrel and stabilize than others.

Good post by HM.

After cleaning my Bores, I put a Snug fitting Patch on the Jag and Form Fit it to the Bore. Then I remove it from the Barrel and put some Moly-Grease on the Patch with my finger. Wipe off my finger and then apply a light Dusting of extra MOS2 onto the Moly Grease. I found a very small squeeze bottle of it at a Gun Show made by Beeman(the Air Rifle folks). Then I give the Bore a few wipes with the Moly Treated Patch and then begin shooting Moly Coated Bullets.

After Champfering and Deburring the Case Mouth, I "Polish" the Case Mouth with 0000SteelWool wrapped around an old 22cal Bore Brush. I use a piece of 0000SteelWool about the size of a Golfball. Then when I stick the Case over the Brush, the 0000SteelWool wraps around both the Inside and Outside of the Case Mouth. That removes minor Brass Burrs that many folks don't even know are on the Case Mouth. Since I began this practice, my Fliers have been significantly reduced.

If you decide to Moly Coat your own Bullets, there is another set of Tricks for that.

THe combined technology bullets ARE NOT moly coated. The winchester coating is called lubalox, and contained no moly what so ever.

The .338 200gr combined tech bullet you are refering to is the goto bullet in my .338 Win mag. They seem to produce similar velocity with few pressure signs when compared to the same weight accubonds, but I still stick to standard book load with them.

quote:

Originally posted by Antelope Sniper:
THe combined technology bullets ARE NOT moly coated. The winchester coating is called lubalox, and contained no moly what so ever.

The .338 200gr combined tech bullet you are refering to is the goto bullet in my .338 Win mag. They seem to produce similar velocity with few pressure signs when compared to the same weight accubonds, but I still stick to standard book load with them.

I believe mine where.If I am not mistaken,the combined technologies partition was called "partition gold" and it was molly.The CT ballistic silvertip was lubalox and not molly.The partition gold ammo however was the least accurate ammo I've ever shot.My shots could not hit target at 100yds and I had a couple of cases that where split from the neck on down..I had to immediately shoot three Remington corelocts to check if there was something wrong with my rifle.All three Rem bullets grouped in a single hole to my relief.

My information is straight from Nosler. Call them yourself if you like, but there in no moly in Lubalox. If the coatind did contain moly, I wouldn't shoot it.

quote:

Originally posted by Antelope Sniper:
My information is straight from Nosler. Call them yourself if you like, but there in no moly in Lubalox. If the coatind did contain moly, I wouldn't shoot it.

I am not sayong there is molly in lubalox-they are two different things.About 10 yrs ago,the CT partitions were made out of molly and not lubalox.Maybe things have changed since then.

Generally, velocity and pressure will decrease with Moly coated bullets (all else the same). You may need to increase the charge slightly to get the same velocity with moly bullets. As usual, Work up loads gradually, watching for pressure signs.

Nosler insists they have never used moly in any of their coating. Partitions Golds use the same coating as the BSST.

quote:

Originally posted by Antelope Sniper:
Nosler insists they have never used moly in any of their coating. Partitions Golds use the same coating as the BSST.

Molly coated CT partitions have been discussed previously on AR.I am sure there are others here besides myself who have used them.Perhaps they are not available today and the person you spoke to at Nosler made a simple error.