Had an interesting discussion at the range today. There were a couple guys talking about which is best for a typical bolt action rifle, neck, full, or partial sizing.

Since I am fairly new to reloading, I mainly just listened and tried to soak up some knowledge. The bench reste guy was saying that the neck size method worked best, but that he didn't think it would help a typical hunting rifle that much. The others were pretty much split between neck and partial sizing.

So, what is your opinion? Which gives the most consistent results?

For all of my bolt guns I neck size. Brass life ends up being excellent.

Pump and lever are full length sized.

Full lengh sizing(backing up shoulder beetween .003"-.006" ,P-FLR backing up shoulder .001"-.003",Partial sizing not working the shoulder,neck sizing using P-LFLR or FLR or using body to back up shoulder(.002").The best way is" up to you"(standard chamber,hunting rifle),the only way to know is to try them and see for yourself.An interesting method is using body die with a collet die ..for "neck sizing"...

I would suggest you read the following:

golf balls at 700 yards with a bipod and hard hold

and his loading technique:

Froggy's loading technique

Here's what I can tell you. I experimented with 4 different loads I have for 4 different rifles. When I resized the brass, I did NOT use the expander (Redding dies), per Froggy's suggestion. In EVERY case, all groups were tighter and I was certainly amazed.

For example, in one of my 270's, 57.0 of Re19 and a 130 TSX produced consistant 3/4" groups with a bipod (Hart barrel). After using a few more "tricks" with the exact same load/components, the groups decreased in size by 1/4". However, the most impressive change was in my brother's factory 300 SAUM, using the 168 TSX. I did a random load for him and settled on IMR4350 without time to tune the round for him before his South Carolina opener on Monday. Previously the load grouped about 1.5" for 5 rounds. However, after removing the expander ball in the die and going TO full length resizing, my brother reported a very nice 1/2" group (factory bbl.). He was very pleased to say the least. He called my cell phone the moment he left the range. "Whatever you did, it worked! And it worked GOOD."

I did purchase some of the Froggy's neck lube but you do have to pay a HazMat fee. Or you can make some yourself. I spoke with several custom rifle builders and they all agreed the guy is definitely on the right track for straight brass and accurate loads.

However, Mr. Richards did advise that the Hornady New Dimension sizer die is an excellent die and will produce straight brass. He's confirmed this on a concentricity gauge.

I agree with "Froggy" on 2 points. 1) consistent neck tension is a MAJOR factor in accuracy. 2) bumping the shoulder back only .001-.002 WORKS VERY WELL.

Oh, yes, and in another 270, the one built by Richards, the 140 Accubond is producing the best groups I've ever done with a bipod, barely over 1/4" for 4 rounds. This was very very hard for me because my heart beat really moves my rifle. I practiced my trigger pull for days in a dark room, and also my cheek hold. I've also lowered my trigger finger to where it literally rests on the trigger guard and my finger pad is touching the point of the trigger.

My trigger is very crisp and is set to 2#6oz. I can now "feel" the precise moment when the trigger will break but it took a lot of practice.