I'm wanting to get into reloading mainly for accuracy & have been running some numbers around but I thought I'd ask you guys that do it a lot. After you have accumulated some brass how much you figure it runs per reload $$$ no labor just materials. say for a 22-250 or .243
I know the brass isn't going to last for ever. Just wondering I'm sure some of you guys have figured this before. Thanks.

For .243 Win
IMR4064 38gr = 12 cents
75gr Vmax = 25 cents with shipping
Primer = 2 cents

So roughly 8 dollars for a box of twenty.You can load for less with non "premium" bullets.

quote:

For .243 Win
IMR4064 38gr = 12 cents
75gr Vmax = 25 cents with shipping
Primer = 2 cents

Key issue as to the cost is the price of the bullet as was stated. For my varmint shooting I use Nosler BT seconds. $.12-.15 each.

What most people find is they spend about the same amount on shooting. They just get to shoot a lot more for the same $.

The bullet is the most expensive part besides the brass. So it will depend on match bullets vs Barnes vs cheaper Speer, Rem. or WW.
243
Std. Primers = 0.025
powder = 0.12-0.14
bullets = 0.16-0.30 so 20c-34c per round.

Welcome aboard newbie !.

This is handy do it your self calculator .

http://10xshooters.com/calculators/index.htm

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

Howdy Polaris 425. With today's factory loads, it is very difficult to beat their accuracy - especially with 22 cal. You can, however, even with the inflated component prices, more than double the amount of shooting you do for the same price when you reload for centerfire rifle or pistol ammo.

DrK. thanks for that calculator thread- I had lost it. Definitely going to cut back on practice with shotshells. My dealer said the next shot he receives is going to end up about $60 for 25lb! That means some awfully expensive shotshells. I have enough shot for about 900 loads - then I guess it's going to be buying elcheapo factory promotion loads.

down here in NZ

for my 280ackley its 57cents for 59gr of N560
50cents for a 162gr hornady A-max
6 cents for a federal primer
$1 a case, get 10 reloadings that 10cents a shot

thats $1.23, not too bad! thats $24.60 for a box of 20 so its about as decent 223 factory ammo.

If you are shooting varmints or casual target shooting amongst friends, buy the least expensive (read cheap) bulk bullets you can find. (no fmj's. actually fmj,s are okay for plinking) 'Cause you'll be shooting a lot of them. And the difference in accuracy between say a 55gr Rem/Win/Horn and some magic target bullet with a little cap on the top is gonna be surprisingly small. A box of 500 Sierra MK's will run you about twice what a 500 box of cheapo's will. And the Pdogs and Ghogs will never know the difference.

In the .22-250. Buy 48# of DP85 from Powder Valley. $69.96/8#,Hazmat $20.00 Shipping perhaps $30.00.Split the order with a buddy or two.With 41.5 grains of it behind a 55gr bullet the powder cost per shot is not quite 6 cents.

Mid South is selling 55 grain Varmint Nite Mares at $36.29/500 plus $6.00 shipping. Cost of bullet /shot about 8.5 cents. 2.3cents /primer

3 cents amourtized case price.

total=19.8 cents/ shot case cost included

results; 3600 fps. 4 shot 1/4" group at 50yds. fantastic at 400yds. roger

Welcome to the hand loading frat!

If you intend to hand load (Which to me means accuracy and reloading means penny pinching.) and you have or plan to have rifles that are built to deliver, this means a bolt rifle. (Rem 700 P{police model} type quality at least.) Get a tight single stage press, Redding makes my favorite stuff. To begin with, I would recommend, buying a deluxe die set that has a full-length seizer, neck size, and bullet seating die for one caliber. The reason is that you do not want to introduce to many variable at once.

Use the cases that you have collected to practice working up a load just pick one head stamp. The cases made by different operations have different capacities and this can affect accuracy. Buy as many different manuals as you can find:
http://www.hodgdon.com/Order/Order.php?Screen=PROD&Stor...=am&Category_Code=RD
http://www.vihtavuori-lapua.com/disclaimer.php
http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/Index.htm
http://www.ramshot.com/powders/
http://www.accuratepowder.com/loaddata_caliber_rifle_standard.htm
http://www.speer-bullets.com/default.asp?s1=5&s2=15
A powder that gives you a 90-100% loading density (fills the case) have been the powders that have given me the best results, so know your cases total capacity and then find a powder that fills the case well. Start at the minimum charge make three rounds of each weight you want to try. The amount that you go up varies case to case But with powders that fill the case in rifle cartridges that you described can be worked up in 1/2 grain intervals up to the max.

The best way to test a load is off of a solid bench with excellent control over the rifle to remove you from the equation. Shoot a fowler or two, from a clean bore, with some cheep bullets before you start. Shoot the first of three and automatically analyze it! Look first at the primer and then the case in general for signs of over pressure (do some research to define this). then if all is OK shoot the other two for a group.

Once you have settled on a load you can start seating the bullet out to different lengths. At some point you can no longer get the cartridge into the magazine and must feed them in one at a time until you get to the lands. Test different seating depths the same way as loads.

Keep good records and start looking at more equipment once you have gotten comfortable. Good luck!

Wow guys thanks a lot for all the GREAT INFO