I am planning on resurecting and shooting my Dad's old Model 99 .300 Savage. I could buy .300 cases but have a supply of .308 Winchester cases. Anyone done any case forming of .300 Savage from .308 cases? Looks like the Savage rim is slightly thinner than the .308. Other than this would there be any problems forming the cases from .308?
thanks,
BJB

I think the biggest problem you'll have will be reduced case capacity from using the .308 cases. As in all reloading, I'd just reduce the initial charges and work up. Other than that, I don't see any problems.

IMO I'd spend a few bucks and get the 300 savage cases.

The 99 savage isn't like a bolt action and is easily damaged by excessive loads that the bolt actions survive easily.

Using the 308 W cases increases the odds of excessive pressure.

I believe that, at the end, you will have an excessive collet thickness, since 40-50% of the new collet will be obtained from the 308's shoulder; then you will probably need to ream and anneal the collet....

quote:

Originally posted by wildboar:
I believe that, at the end, you will have an excessive collet thickness, since 40-50% of the new collet will be obtained from the 308's shoulder; then you will probably need to ream and anneal the collet....

I've experienced what WildBoar speaks of when forming up .30 Herrett from .30-30 Win. You are reforming part of the shoulder into the neck area. This brass is thicker.

That said, when you run the expander back out [after neck or FL sizing] it creates a consistent I.D. You can visually see where the where the thicker shoulder meets the neck. I have not reamed the necks and don't really think it's necessary unless there is a tight fit in the throat.

The bottom line to BJB is go ahead and try it. BTW - Ken Howell's book say to form from .306 OR .30-06. You might actually have more consistent neck thickness [w/o turning] using .30-06 and you will have body material only to form the new neck with. Again, thickness of the necks and fit in your chamber will need to be checked.


MM

BJB: You've received a lot of advise from people who have obviously NOT done what you ask about, and the advice is mostly worth just what you paid for it.

Run the .308 into the .300 FL sizer, trim the brass to the right length, load and fire. There is hardly any cartridge brass conversion that is less problematic than .308 to .300S.

By the way, as with any cartridge you may or may not need to run your FL sizer all the way down against the shell holder in order to push the shoulder back the proper amount. Screw the FL die into the press only as deep as necessary in order to allow your new .300S cases to chamber without excessive resistance. Of course, you'll have to trim them first in order to try them in the chamber.

If it will cause you to have any more confidence in following this advice, send me a PM and I'll send you an address where you can send whatever amount of money it takes to make this advice seem adequately dependable.

That's right Stonecreek, I've never converted 308 W into 300 Savage, but some 270w/280Rem into 308 W and I had the above-mentioned problems. I was just talking about what it happened to me, saying "I believe..." and "probably..". Of course I'm not a big expert like you.

quote:

Originally posted by MuskegMan:
...Ken Howell's book say to form from .306 OR .30-06. You might actually have more consistent neck thickness [w/o turning] using .30-06 and you will have body material only to form the new neck with. Again, thickness of the necks and fit in your chamber will need to be checked...

Hey MuskegMan, Don't take the following comments as an attack "on you", because they are not.

howl is an idiot! He is ALWAYS "Complicating Any Relatively Easy Task", thus the creation of the "howl CARET Factor".

Only real reason to use a 30-06 would be if you had a room full of them AND you have a File/Trim Die. The 308Wins do fine, but still need a good bit of trimming. I agree with Stonecreek when he said, "There is hardly any cartridge brass conversion that is less problematic than .308 to .300S."

And there is great wisdom in keeping your Loads at 300Sav levels. If you are using a M99Sav, the real reason is because of the way the Action locks up. The problem created by this is Insipient Case Head Separations(ICHS) because the Action/Bolt locking arrangement allows more case s-t-r-e-t-c-h than with a Bolt Action.

So, regardless of whichever Cases you go with, be sure to check them for ICHS after EACH FIRING with the old " L " shaped wire Feeler Gauge. Nip the end off with side-cutters to make a Chisel Tip and then bend a leg about 1/16" long so you can run it down inside the Case and feel for a groove at the Pressure Ring. If you feel the ICHS(groove) - toss the case.

I've had the best luck and longest case life by reforming once fired Military 308Wins(7.62NATO) because they are thicker than normal 308Win cases.

As has been said, reduce the Load a bit if you go the Military Case route.

Don't put a lot of effort into it though, because normal 300Sav cases might make it 5-6 reloads if the Pressure is held low. Jack it up and you can get Head Separations in 2-3 firings.
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They are excellent old woods/swamp rifles because they carry so well in the hand, but they can wear you out forming cases if you intend to shoot it a lot.

Best of luck to you.

I have a box of .300 Savage; 10 rounds factory silver tips 150s and 10 rounds of factory RN 150s. Yours for shipping costs or if in LA area stop by and pick them up. From the extent of the patna and the price on the box I'd put their age in the late 70s or early 80s. roger

Thanks guys for all of your advice. I am using Lake City brass and you can be sure I will keep the loads down to .300 loading and check cases after firing. Don't mind the trimming at all. I don't intend on shooting Dad's old 99 much but it is too nice of a rifle to not to shoot.
Regards,
BJB

quote:

Originally posted by BJB:
... Don't mind the trimming at all. ...

Hey BJB, The File/Trim Die really helps speed up the neck shortening. That makes the entire Reforming process less aggravating.

They are Heat Treated so the hacksaw doesn't cut into the die. But you can make a serviceable one with a piece of flat steel by just drilling a hole in it large enough for the Case Neck to stick through.

Then clamp it in a vise, stick the case through and hacksaw it off.

You will want the steel to be slightly thicker than than the normal Neck length, so you can use two pieces if need be.

Back when I wasted a whole lot of time on Wildcats, I even made them out of wood. Just drilled through a 2x4 and then "countersunk" deep enough to let the case go in to the proper depth.
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You would want very fine teeth on the saw with the teeth "in-line" not splayed. These can be found on the very inexpensive Hobby Saws. I got one with 10 blades for $1 at a Big Lots.
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And you can use one of the Lathe style trimmers, but it sure gets old.