Question for all you experienced riflemen...

I've noticed what I think are signs of case stretching/thinning in my .375 H&H cases (reloaded multiple times with full-power loads)... When I look down into the case - using sunlight to illuminate down inside it - I can see a dark ring/shadow (dark because of carbon and how the sun's shadow hits) just above the case head on the inside of the case's surface. Some of my other cases that are only once or twice fired show either no such ring at all or a very faint one compared to those used multiple times.

I suspect this is where the case is "stretching" due to resizing over and over. I do trim my cases every 2nd or 3rd firing and I full-length resize every time. Photos I've seen in the Speer manual of cutaway cases shows this thinning of the case in that area. Obviously I'm concerned about case head separation, so my question is should I trash these cases that show such a deep "ring"?

In 29 years of loading and shooting I've never had a case head separation but it doesn't sound like it's something fun (and probably requires a gunsmith to get the case body out of the chamber?), so I'm sure I want to avoid this.

I've never had a problem with this but then again I don't want to start now. To be honest this is the first time I've paid any attention to bother looking for such a condition, so my question is...

How much of a "ring" should I allow to develop in that area on bottle-necked cases? (This ring is not really visible from the outside of the case, only the inside). I know the answer will probably be difficult to quantify, but I'm not sure whether I should trash these cases. I've separated them out for the time being.

Thanks for your input!

You can feel for likely problems in the case using a paperclip bent in a short "L" on one end.Put the "L" into the case and feel for any cracks or problems..If you ever have a case head separation: Remove the bolt. Find a drill bit that just fits in the case.I have lots of bits,if you don't, go to a friends house and use those-it has to fit just right.Carefully feed the bit point into the back end of the case, it should be snug. Tap the bit into the case, using a dowel and mallet. It should rotate slightly as it goes in.If it is the proper size, it will bite into the brass.Spray some WD-40 or the like down the barrel from the muzzle.Now using a rigid cleaning rod, feed it in from the crown end of the barrel.When it contacts the tip of the drill bit,tap on the end of the rod. Out comes the case.

Use a feeler wire as mentioned above. A slight ring inside the case is ok. I have cut a few in half to satisfy my curiosity about how much is ok and as mention above it's up to you.

Your right in that the ring cannot be seen on the outside until it's about too late and then it's usually an arc heavier on one side.

Most chambers don't want the die set hard on the shell holder. In particular belted magnums have more clearance at the shoulder and therefore will be pushed back even more, on average, than a rimless round.

For hunting many use once fired brass as that's a DGR.

I too have a Ruger #1 in 375, and I too full length resize. This is the procedure I use to set my resize die.
I first set the die to not set the shoulder back at all and then progressively screw the die in 1/16 of a turn at a time until my action just closes with no or just a little feel. It is now headspacing on the shoulder instead of the belt.
Once the die is set, it should stay that way (unless you have to load for more than 1 rifle).

The easiest way I have heard of for removing case bodies from the chamber after a case head separation (hopefully, you'll never need this) is to use an oversize bronze brush. Mounted on a (preferably short) cleaning rod with a good handle, you enter the brush into the case body from the breech. Give it a good push, and then a hearty pull - out comes the case.

I have found it difficult to feel the rings indicating incipient case head separation. Unless you have an endoscope of some sort to look into the case, you can also just split a case in half (along the long axis) with a hacksaw, and see what goes on inside the case.

- mike

Do yourself a favour and get a Lee Collet die and the Lee Factory crimp die!

Using this system, I have .375 Ouch & Ouch cases that I've loaded over 30 times.

Less work too (no lube needed!).

jpb