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Guys, I am looking at the 2002 Alliant reloading guide. I'm shooting a Barnes 225X out of a .338 Winny. They list RL19 at 72.0gn book max, but a 225 Hornady at 75.3gn max. Why the huge difference for equal weight bullets? Anybody shooting this round? What's your load? tks, Mike | ||
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I shot that load with the Hornady bullet, and it's a good one. Eventually I wound up using 200's and 250's, but I can't complain about the 225 grain bullet. As for the reduction in charge weights with Barnes bullets, it is done because they have, per grain weight, longer bearing surfaces, than do similar lead core bullets. Also pure copper tends to be "sticky." All of the above mentioned can, and does raise pressure. The "XLC's", are another story. | |||
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Packrat, thanks. Your explanation makes perfect sense. I feel like a bit of a knob for not thinking of that. Anyway, this new Ruger 77 MKII needed some tweaking. The first day at the range was with 200 grain Ballistic tips. It was walking horizontally as the barrel heated up. The cheapo plastic stock is a P.O.S., and I wished I'd realized that when I bought it. I floated the barrel tonight with credit card shims and a bit of sandpaper to the barrel channel. I can fit a $20.00 bill down the channel now with no interference so I hope that did the trick. The forend still flexes unacceptably so next year will see an aftermarket fibreglass stock. I'm hitting the range tomorrow with the Barnes X to prepare for moose.....time is running short or I would have thrown some 210 partitions through it too. I think the Barnes will work acceptably on game providing they group anywhere near decent. Thanks for the assist. Mike | |||
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quote:By all means try some 210 Partitions through it especially behind some IMR4350 !!! My .338 shoots .75 MOA with that combination. As far as the stock goes, just fix the foreend. Grind out 2 grooves inside the barrel channel and bed in some aluminum rods or whatever to stiffen up the forend. You'll save some money and have the satisfaction of fixing it yourself. bowhuntr | |||
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I have also had great luck with 71 grs of IMR 4350 and Nosler 210 Partitions; it seems to duplicate the Federal Premium factory load. I know a few guys who use that exact load, and it seems to work well for everybody. I get .75 - 1" with it, using Hornady brass and magnum primers, but I know guys who use standard primers with equal or better success. A word of caution, though - .338's seem to like to stretch brass, so keep a careful eye on the length! Early on in my loading career, I didn't trim as carefully as I should have and let a couple of rounds get 'long'. I started getting case head separations. | |||
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Guys, thanks.....here's a range update after my basement free floating job: When I first shot a few groups with handloads last month out of my new virgin Ruger .338, it didn't shoot that great. It was acceptable (2" or just over at 100 yards) but not great. It was walking shots horizontally as the barrel heated up. Now I don't think anyone should have to pay a grand for a rifle and then have to screw with it to get it shooting good, but I guess with some you just do. Back to the range. Book maximum with my Barnes X 225 and RL19 was 72.0 grains. I started at 70.0 grains and went up in 0.5 grain increments. WOW! 70.0 was dismal, but everything from 70.5 to book max was great! 71.5 grains produced a 3 shot cloverleaf all touching (measures 7/16" on centre for the furthest two shots)! This is my load for Bullwinkle! I simply cannot believe the difference this made. The factories should be doing this as standard practice, it is minimal investment for high return. Next is the trigger......but not this year! I hear you guys on the 210 partition....I will for sure try it, but this year I'm heading north with the Barnes. I always wanted to smack something big with one of these and this is hopefully the year. My group has one bull tag and 3 cows. I'm interested in working with IMR4831 as well as IMR4350. [ 09-09-2003, 01:43: Message edited by: Red Label ] | |||
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I have had great luck with the 225 gr Barnes X bullet and both RL-22 and IMR-4350 in my Tikka. Both shoot under 3/4 of an inch at max loads. The deciding factor will be the chronograph, since the loads shoot almost the same sized group. | |||
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quote:338's of any description don't stretch any more than any other caliber, it's inept reloaders that stretch the brass while reloading. | |||
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Bob338, For my benefit, can you please clarify the procedure for neck sizing only with FL dies? After my initial firing I intend to neck size only. tks, Mike | |||
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Your findings mirror mine with R19. 71.9 shot inside of itself. Lately I've been playing with R22 and getting some pretty good results. I wouldn't reccomend neck sizing hunting ammo. You can, however, partial full length size your hunting ammo. To do this, turn your die out so that it either, JUST bumps the shoulder, or so that it sizes the neck and part of the body, but not the shoulder. Take a fired cartridge, turn your die out a few turns, and run you spent shell up into the die. After you remove the shell, you can see just how far down the neck you have sized the case. Keep turning the die down until you reach your desired results. Mine are set to JUST touch the shoulder, but not to really move it. Turok | |||
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Unless a cartridge is heavily tapered (more than a 338 Win Mag,) you can't truly neck size with a FL die. What most experienced reloaders do is exactly what Turok explained. Some refer to that as 'partial full sizing'. If you size that way you greatly reduce the stretch of the body and you slow down the inevitable head separation. If you try to size only, say half way down the neck, it's also possible to pull out the shoulder when removing the expander ball in the sizing operation. That will make your round hard to chamber. If you truly want to neck size, buy a neck sizing die. I try to use once or twice fired brass, neck sized, for my hunting loads. If they are fired more than that I set the shoulders back .001"-002", fire one more time, then neck size for the hunting load. Any more than once fired can require a bit of force to chamber the round which wouldn't be wise in situations requiring a fast second or third shot. Partial full sizing will significantly extend the life of your brass. I easily get 10 reloads out of our domestic brass and have managed in excess of 13 reloads a time or two. It's inevitable that you will get case separation at some point with our domestic brass as the shoulder to chamber slop is quite significant in new brass. That first shot in fireforming sometimes requires a stretch of as much as .030", which I just saw in some nickel plated brass, from Winchester I believe. .020"-.024" slop is very common in most belted brass and that initial stretch is always at the head. Partial full sizing or neck sizing reduces the further stretch significantly and extends the life of the brass. | |||
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Thanks guys, As usual you are a wealth of good info. I will do a length trim after initial fire forming, then partial FL resize as described above. The way this baby shot with virgin brass, I will likely just use new brass for hunting! Mike | |||
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here's a scan of the group...just testing picture posting on here: | |||
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Very nice group. Now see if you can do it a few more times. Then go shoot something big Turok | |||
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