I bought a Lee Challenger press as part of the Anniversary kit a month ago to get into reloading after reading 2 books on reloading since January and decided to ‘cut my teeth’ on 9mm rounds for my Glock 17. I carefully made a couple boxes of rounds and took them to the range where a friend and I used our semi-autos and fired them off. The bullets fired fine, but 4-out-of-5 times the brass would not make it all the way out of the action and would jam in the action so that part of the brass was in the action and part was out. In no cases did the brass remain in the chamber. After about 20 rounds each, we stopped using the rounds and went to our factory rounds for the rest of our time on the range.
After my range time, I saw a friend of mine in the range shop who has much more experience than me at reloading and we talked about it. He suggested that the rounds may be bulged and gave me some ideas on where the most likely changes in my process might need to be made. He handed me a Dillon 9mm gauge tube off the shelf which I bought and took home with me.
I took the gauge home and put the cartridges in the gauge expecting them to jam. I was shocked when they didn’t. I have a digital caliper and the cartridges assembled are within specifications, but something is wrong as they don’t eject. I did not polish the used brass, but didn’t think that would be a big deal. Is it?
In case it is important, I used 5.2 grains of Accurate #5 which probably varied .2 grains up/down. Checked them every 5-10. I used a mixed-bag of used brass I bought from the range. The bullets were nickel plated from Berry’s and I have the 4 die Lee set with the factory crimp die.
Any other suggestions? I would really like to figure this out so I can feel confident on moving on to other caliber rounds.
Thanks,
Scott

I looked at loads for AA #5 on another site. The load for a 90-grain bullet is over 7 grains. For a 130-grain bullet, it's around six. I think your charge is too low to affect a full extraction. What you are getting is known as "stovepiping." I'm not sure of the exact causes. Your extractor might be weak or maladjusted, and is dropping the spent cases before a complete retraction of the bolt is accomplished. I don't know what the ejector set-up is in your pistol, but if it's anything like that in the 1911, I doubt it's your ejector.

Thank you for the reply. Not having enough pressure to retract the action is understandable. I am attempting to make 115gr rounds with 5.2gr which is the recommendation in the Lee Reloading book (the new 2nd ed).

I can't imagine the ejector needs adjustment as it fires factory rounds just fine.

So, if the problem is not enough pressure, how much AA #5 should I be putting into it if the recommendation is 5.2gr?

suggestion - get another book or 2 sierra is super, hornady is very good too. lee's is more than a little f**up

I bet you don't have enough pressure to work the action properly. I run into this same problem when buying cheap factory stuff with my 9mm. The cheap stuff will not work in my 9, but it will shoot just fine in my wife's, go figure!

So, I elimanated all problems when sticking with Winchester 115 grn FMJ versus the PMP or Wolf rounds.

I'd bet if you increase your load a bit, your problems will go away.

quote:

Originally posted by Scott904:
Thank you for the reply. Not having enough pressure to retract the action is understandable. I am attempting to make 115gr rounds with 5.2gr which is the recommendation in the Lee Reloading book (the new 2nd ed).

I can't imagine the ejector needs adjustment as it fires factory rounds just fine.

So, if the problem is not enough pressure, how much AA #5 should I be putting into it if the recommendation is 5.2gr?

Send me a PM.

When did Berry's start making nickel plated bullets? Maybe that is a typo & you meant copper plated. A note, plated bullets load between jackted & lead data. Your loads aren't producing enough pressure. You should be closer to 6gr for a 115gr Berry's. You need to do two things when working a new load.
1) use more than one data source & average the starting data.
2) never use starting data for semiautos. I know, everyone says use starting data, but I find it doesn't always give good results. Average middle data always gives a load that functions.
You have also made a classic newb mistake. NEVER load more than 10rds of your test load. It prevents you from having ammo that doesn't work & having to pull them all apart. Use average middle data & load 10rds. Then load 10 more 0.1gr up & 10 more 0.1gr down. Fire in order from lowest to highest & note:
reliability, accuracy, pressure signs or lack of. AA data link:
http://www.accuratepowder.com/...20v3.3%20version.pdf

I'm late to the party but saying the same thing. You need a little more pressure. Accurate lists 5.7 to 6.3 for a cast bullet. (I just saw Fred poseted that link.) For the most part the plated bullets load like cast bullets. If you are trying to find a load that uses the lowest weight of the selected powder start with the minimum load and load 10, then go up .1 grain and load ten, etc. You'll find that there is a minimum load that will reliably cycle your action. Bullseye shooters work up loads like this to find low recoil loads that reliably cycle.

I should have read Fred's post better instead of skimming it.

I had the same problem with a LAMA .380 years ago they would fire and cycle, stovepipe and you could see them fly down range. I was loading the MAX charge in the book I had. I kept increasing the load a 10th of a grain untill they started working properly. It was a PITA but I learned the hard way.

If it was a used gun I would say some one might have put in a stronger spring that could cause problems.

having a load that was too low makes sense. I will have to work on increasing the powder grains as you are all saying. (and pull about 3 boxes of bullets i guess! <sigh>

Don't pull them. Just use them up and practice your FTE procedure ie. use your left hand to brush the top of the case (front to back) that has stovepiped,thereby allowing the slide to close, press the trigger if it doesn't fire then rack the slide again with your left hand and keep shooting. Guns do not always go bang every time and if you ever NEED to use your gun you should practice this procedure.
Peter.

quote:

Originally posted by Peter:
Don't pull them. Just use them up and practice your FTE procedure.

Excellent idea! I've seen failure to extract malfunctions WAY more often than failure to fire. Most shooters who have this type of malfunction just stand there with a stupid look on their faces and look at their gun instead of clearing the malfunction and resuming fire. Not good!

Just make sure to keep these questionable "practice rounds" clearly segregated from your "serious" stuff!

Wow, I hate to shoot those things. I have 2 and a half 50ct boxes. They get jammed in the action so hard, I was afraid the brass on each was going to be dented up and unusable. But, inspection of the brass did not reveal any dents at all, so that is good. I just feel bad shooting when I know a shell is most likely to get jammed. Just feel 'dirty' doing it. But, I guess it's going to have to be.

Thanks for everyone's help

quote:

Originally posted by Scott904:
Wow, I hate to shoot those things. I have 2 and a half 50ct boxes. They get jammed in the action so hard, I was afraid the brass on each was going to be dented up and unusable. But, inspection of the brass did not reveal any dents at all, so that is good. I just feel bad shooting when I know a shell is most likely to get jammed. Just feel 'dirty' doing it. But, I guess it's going to have to be.

Thanks for everyone's help

I would pull them personally. Shooting known defective ammo just puts you at risk, why? Load small lots until you KNOW the load functions 100%.

Accurate's own data gives 5.7gr of #5 as the STARTING load for cast bullets & 6.3gr for jacketed:

http://www.accuratepowder.com/...20v3.3%20version.pdf