I have 429 mostly once fire and some net for sale at a great price but due to the number not much interested, which is understandable. Don't want to mess with piece mealing them out..SOOOO

Who makes a die set today that could reduce 300 WM to .338 win. or could I trim and resize the neck with the dies I have on hand? It seems like production of anything short of super basic is out of production in these times...

Why don't you anneal, partial trim and size with standard full length sizing dies them retrim and see what happens. You got nutin' to loose except a few pieces of brass.
Make sure when you anneal you catch the shoulder as this area will be part of the neck on the .338.


Hip

I find that most case forming dies are a complete waste of money; and especially in this case, none is needed.
Trim and size, actually, size first. However, since you are making a neck out of shoulder and body meat, the new necks may, or may not, fit your chamber. Test one and see.

MY intention:

thanks for the opinnions..

I have on hand a Redding full body die in 338, a long tapered Redding 338 button to open necks, and a Redding 338 file trim die...a fl set of RCBS and REdding 338 dies and RCBS 300 win mag dies btw

Im thinking I have what I need, curious as to what are the proper steps so as to not waste or ruin cases..Am I on the right track..I think I have the right tools need the steps to be sure IM on track..

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
I find that most case forming dies are a complete waste of money; and especially in this case, none is needed.
Trim and size, actually, size first. However, since you are making a neck out of shoulder and body meat, the new necks may, or may not, fit your chamber. Test one and see.

Agreed. "Forming" dies are unnecessary for any but the most radical changes from the parent cartridge. A tapered expander button helps if you're going from a smaller neck to a larger one (like .308" to .338"). A single stroke through your .338 FL die should leave you with only the necessity of trimming the former .300 Wins to proper length (as well as chamfering). I doubt they'll need any kind of adjustment to the neck wall thickness since you're going "up" and not "down".

Having never done this particular case forming, but knowing I probably had the tools I needed in my junk die box..I would make .338 as the 300s didn't seem to entice anyone, so this is a back up plan if they dont sell on Guns INtl..they didn't move anyone on AR, but I tried to sell them all in one lot of 429 caes.

I did 20 cases using new ww 300 win mag cases, I don't know why I thought it woulld be difficult and different, about lke all the case forming Ive done for years no different I ran the case thru the file trin die, cut off the excess resized the case in a 338 die and was done..The hard part was cuttingoff the excess and I did that in a rotary Forrester then finished with a file trim die to finish the resizing the cases and was done..I set the shoulder back with the file trim die...cut off the excess...and resized the case as another approach and both worked..

Im not going to anneal, and see how many loads I can get out of a case, then do the same with an annealed case...something I always intended to do and never got around to it..

quote:

Who makes a die set today that could reduce 300 WM to .338 win. or could I trim and resize the neck with the dies I have on hand? It seems like production of anything short of super basic is out of production in these times...

I use a 35 Remington forming die to size any long magnum down to 338 Winchester. I cannot push the shoulder back, so I have to adjust the die to get the correct case length from the shoulder to the case head. After forming the case body to 35 Remington I use the 338 Winchester die to finish the case body with a shoulder and neck. Never a fold, crease or dent.

F. Guffey

This makes no sense whatsoever. Using a .35 Remington die on a magnum case will reduce the shoulder and firward case body diameter substantially, regardless of the shoulder position. Why would someone want to overwork the brass this much? The OP has all the dies he needs to perform the operation he wants to do, I guess if a .35 Remington die is all you have then you use it, but a .338 die and neck expander does the job. SMH…



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Ray: I have formed .350 Rem. Mag. brass with a trim die, the way you are doing it. The trim dies are normally hardened so you can cut the extra brass off with a hacksaw and then finish it with a file. Quick and easy. Hope this helps.

I agree with dpcd (to a point) I have many case form die sets + addmitadly some are redundant when cases can be formed in the sizing die, if dimensions are not too severe. I good case in point though is sizing 30-30 brass to 219 Zipper AI. That one I really had to work with a case form die set. Just for the 30 to 219 though, as the rest was gravy.

Ray..just sent you and e-mail.

Terry

I guarantee that NO one uses a 35 Remington die on any Magnum brass unless you want to neck size for a .460 straight walled case. (Even then too small) And the neck on a 35 Rem is only .405 so that is smaller than a 375 H%H.
No point in this.
Trim dies? Hacksaws and files?; crude at best and big waste of money, I trim brass in my lathe.

BS, I can trim a hundred necks while your setting up the lathe..Its just a matter of cutting off the neck that protrudes, and many ways to do that..I have a Forrester lathe type trimmer that works off a drill press and its fast. NOw thats modern my man..