Does it work just as well as annealing regular brass, or not? Anyone have any experience with it?

Yes and Yes ; The difficulty lies in not being able to visually observe the color change

in the cases . Brass cases should turn a blue color when the correct annealing Temp. is achieved

around the shoulder and neck area only . Nickel plated are not going to do that , so a Temp stick

or experience in case annealing time is critical . This is why it has always been preferable

to Time Cases in a flame set up , so you know how long it takes . Rather than just a regular Brass

eyeball color change method . If one never uses Nickle cases then the eye ball works OK , but it's not

the best method. IMO anyway .

Set up a regular rotating shell holder in a drill or stationary set up Slow RPM is best

two torches with tight pin flames works very well , set at 170 degree angle . Use a temp stick

and a stop watch do a dozen old cases to start with . Average out the time for a particular size case

now Your ready for Nickel or Good cases and you no longer need the Temp stick .

Every size case you reload will need to be done in this manner , Like size cases are going to be near

the same times . Big differences in time from .17 HMR too a .50 Cal .

Gotcha, thanks Doc. I figured it would work, but also figured I would ask.

I read a method which I've used with good success which is to hold with bare hands by the base UNPRIMED brass in molten lead until the case head begins to feel warm then remove & allow to cool.