Has anyone used these gauges? I just got one. How hard would it be to make your own case? The don't list the 358 Winchester and I could use one. I know they make them for around $20 for custom. What's your opinion?

Bob257

Kinda looks like a 5/16 UNEF, but may be more exotic than that. You would have to measure it more closely, then get a tap for the case. It might even be 36 thread. However, after you had the tap, you could make your own with a fired case for any case/chamber that would accomodate the tap.

It is 5/16 X 36. You can buy the tap either from Stoney Point for about $15 or from one of the tool supply houses like MSC for about $10.

After you drill and tap the base of the case you will need to expand the neck so your desired bullets will freely move in and out of the neck.

I do use this devise but I found on this forum what I think is a lot neater and easier way of getting the same result.Slot the neck with a fine saw of the case you want to use down to the shoulder. Deburr it and run it through your FL resizing die. Now put the bullet you want to use into neck letting it stick out as far as possible. Chamber it and extract it slowly. Do not let it hit the floor or anything else but your hand for that matter. Use this to adjust your bullet seating die.
Note bene! the bullet should be held in the case so it needs only a small force to slide but is firmly held. Now I have cases I can use for every cartridge. roger

Rodge I have tried this method a stack of times and can never seem to get it to work.

I have tried cutting V out of the neck, or just a slit, but whatever I do I either get a case neck that is too tight or too loose.

Can you specify what kind of saw you use and how far down the case you cut?

Express I use the same method.. I take a cutwheel on a dremel tool and cut the neck to the beginning of the shoulder NO further... Never had a problem with it done this way.. If ya like I could post a pic of one of my cases...

6.5B...I'd like to see a pic if you don't mind.

Thanks,

Alan

6.5 Yep, a pic is worth a thousand words...

Here ya go not the best pic but should give ya a idea..

Thanks...will try it myself.

Modify a decapped (but not resized) spent case. Two advantages. First, the case has already been expanded to fit your chamber. Second, the neck is expanded to easily slide bullets in and out without any additional fiddling. Use the spent cartridge and drill/tap the base to fit the gauge. Alternatively, you can send in a spent round to Stoney Point and they will drill and tap for about $7.

Like 6.5 said. I make the slot all the way to the top of the neck though. I also add one step. After I remove the bullet/case I draw a line on the bullet right up against the case neck. I use a very fine tip permanent marker. Then I twist the bullet out a bit and repeat the process. The line tells me if the bullet is catching on the rifling and pulling the bullet out slightly upon removal. It looks like this:



Sorry it's a little blurry..got too close.

I also do one more thing. The above method gives a "touching the lands" measurement. I load a dummy round where I think the bullet is backed off properly (easy with Redding micrometer die) and then I blacken the ogive with a black Sharpie. Then I chamber the (DUMMY) round and remove. If I can see the rifling marks (copper spots showing through the black) then I know i'm still touching the lands. Trial and error by re marking the bullet and turing the die down a thou at a time...for me it's important to know that I'm backed off the lands so as not to create a pressure spike. Of course some guys like their bullets jammed right in there, God Bless Em'!

Roger

The pic in my post isnt very good but the slit does go all the way to the top as well.. The sharpie mark is also a very good tip.. You can also blacken them with a lighter as well..

6.5 Bandit