Have allways loaded speer bullets have now decided to try some barnes but a bit confused on bullet depth.When set at same depth as the speer the last groove on the triple shock is exposed is this OK or are none of the grooves to be out of the casing? or are you to crimp in the last groove? or should seat just past the last groove?
All the pictures I see in the reloading manual show no groove exposed but they are just drawings.
If some one had a picture of a loaded bullet that would be great.
Thanks for any input/help.

I've reloaded them and the grooves are outside of the case. Saw a guy at the range yesterday with Barnes and his grooves were showing as well.

quote:

Originally posted by DPollard:
I've reloaded them and the grooves are outside of the case. Saw a guy at the range yesterday with Barnes and his grooves were showing as well.

For the Barnes bullets I start my load development with the bullet set 0.050" off the lands no matter where the grooves are (as long as they'll fit the magazine box).

I have a bunch of rifles that I load barnes bullets and I see it both ways. I would say most have some exposed. My 35 whelen actually has quite a bit of the rings exposed. I also would say 0.050 off the lands is the place to start and I have been frustrated every once in a while by haveing to go closer I don't have any that like closer than 0.030. Have some that are over 100 thou from lands but not most. If you find the sweet spot you will be shocked at the accuracy.

You don't crimp. You can't. Barnes would tell you not to worry about that. I asked them because I had the same issue. If you call them they will be happy to talk to you about it.

why do they tell you can't. i have done it many times and never had a problem. just curious

I do as Fjold; start at .050" off lands & adjust for sweet spot. It will depend on length of your magazine box. Refer to your loading manuals on crimping. As mine indicate, reason for crimping (for rifle bullets) is to keep bullets in magazine from moving with recoil in heavy recoiling rifles. (Anything above .338WM?) I do not crimp for my .338WM (or any of my several other lighter recoiling rounds) & have never had bullet movement with full max loads. For heavier recoiling round I would probably crimp; my books say to.

Further: I think, even in a light recoiling load, if you get movement of bullets on recoil, you would want to consider crimping or lack thereof, as an issue. Or, could there be another reason?

Thanks for the info I had loaded a few the same depth as the speers but not as accurate, will adjust depth now to see if any change.

quote:

Originally posted by gerryb:
why do they tell you can't. i have done it many times and never had a problem. just curious

What did you crimp when the groove was at the point of the neck where you would normally crimp? You can't crimp if there is nothing there to crimp. They say to start 50 thousandths or more off lands and go from there. That is regardless of where the groove ends up. I don't crimp any of my bullets and have never had any bullet movement (up to 300 mag). I don't own any ele guns.

I have always had good support from Barnes. I spoke to them about a reloading issue at the NRA convention two years ago. The person I talked to said he would get back with me via email after the show when he was back in his office. His email included all the data from their reloading manual related to my issue.

I routinely crimp Barnes TSX and Banded Solids because I've found that practice seems to improve accuracy. There is NO reason you shouldn't crimp them. Just select a groove that will provide a COAL allowing feeding through the magazine whilst keeping the bullet off the lands and all should be fine.

The best crimping device I've found is the Lee Factory Crimp Die.

I have loaded Barnes for myself as well as purchased them in loaded ammo. Having the ring exposed is very common. On the rifle bullets, the rings are not there for crimping but to reduce pressure and fouling, and improve gas sealing. No reason to worry about it.

Starting at 0.50" and going to 0.30" (no less) has been my norm for various rifles.

I learned the hard way 15 years ago with a 243 Win, using the old Barnes X (no bands) and blew the primer, embossed the case head on the bolt face etc and got a real fright with a face full of hot gas. The hard copper takes just that millisecond longer to swag through the throat & you can get pressure spikes. Yes, I know that the banded TSX is supposed to reduce or eliminate this problem, but I'll stick to what I know on mono metal bullets....it is my rifle & my face!